2 ignition switches and still no run

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J

J-man

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I have 2 ignition switches 1 old and a new one that I purchased from Laysons restorations. the old one has the typical burned out issues turn to the crank position and it fires up roll of to run and it dies.... the new switch when I turn to crank does nothing and when I turn to run cranks and fires I turn to the off position and it disengages the starter, but I am able to pull the key out while it is running and I have to unplug the blue wire to kill it... On the new switch it's like all the functions of the switch are set 1 setting back and I believe that the original switch is burned out.

Also the blue wire gets physically hot when the car is running with the new switch in and at position 0. Any ideas or comments are greatly appreciated as I have been trying to wrestle with this for a while and have gotten nowhere, I do have a new painless wiring harness that I plan on installing but I need this to run for a little while before I can get the time to install it.
 
I don't know what type of vehicle this is (what year??) but I think it would be best to find some kind of basic wiring diagram for the key switch and possibly the ignition system. At that point you should use some sort of digital volt meter to test the switch and the ignition system wiring. Make sure that the ballast is wired correctly. Test the switch for continuity and resistance and check the resistance at the bulk head connection. Oh, make sure the ground wire is connected from the engineblock to the firewall. Good luck, hope this helped.
 
it is a 69 dart, it has no problem starting just keeping it running on the old switch i have to hold it between position 2 and 3. when the key hits position 2 on the old switch the car dies, apart from that it functions like a normal switch.

On the new switch position 3 does noting position 2 cranks and fires, position 1 disengages the starter, leaving the key at position 0 and running while being able to pull the key out.

That is what happens with the two different switches I can and have swapped them both out multiple times but they both act the same way no matter how many times they are switched out. I'm starting to lean towards the fact that I might have two bad switches is this most likely or am I missing something?
 
1--Get in your daily driver

2--Drive to NAPA

3--Buy a new ignition switch.

I don't like "throwing parts" at a problem, but in this case.............................
 
turn to the crank position and it fires up roll of to run and it dies..

Isn't this the symptoms of a bad resistor?
C
 
clhyer said:
turn to the crank position and it fires up roll of to run and it dies..

Isn't this the symptoms of a bad resistor?
C
Click to expand...


I thought that too, but the two switches are described as acting different. Hell maybe he has TWO problems.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I am pretty sure that switch is no longer available since it is a one year part.
Click to expand...


Oh, hell. I was thinking of the lock, I guess.

Sounds like it's time to sit down with both switches, a battery, clip leads and a BIG light bulb, like a stop light and do some continuity checking
 
Your 69 has the ignition switch in the dash. I think the same $11 part as in my 65 Dart and simple to replace. However, more likely than 2 switches being bad is that you have a loose terminal in the connector or other wiring problems. You need a multimeter to trouble-shoot.
 
inkjunkie said:
The switch is available....from NAPA don't know.....
Click to expand...

Trying to look something up on NAPAs website is infuriating.

67-68 Dart switch, a little over 16 bucks : MPE KS6528SB

or a little over 20 bucks, ECH KS6528

69 doesn't seem to be shown

I wonder if you could tear apart a 67--8 switch, put the switch guts in your 69 housing?
 
67Dart273 said:
Trying to look something up on NAPAs website is infuriating.

67-68 Dart switch, a little over 16 bucks : MPE KS6528SB

or a little over 20 bucks, ECH KS6528

69 doesn't seem to be shown

I wonder if you could tear apart a 67--8 switch, put the switch guts in your 69 housing?
Click to expand...
69 housing is a different size housing.....Valiant & Dart are the same
 
FWIW, I'm having a similar intermittent problem with an aftermarket switch: Will crank and start but as soon as you release the key to the run position it dies. Even had it die once while driving down the street. Seems to be at the column connector. I can unplug the connector, rejoin it, and then it starts and runs fine. I recently noticed the blue wire/terminal at the connector is getting too hot to the touch after it's been running for awhile. There's obviously a poor connection at the terminal. Very frustrating.
 
If you found a hot spot, you probably found the problem. The connector right there where the heat is is bad, or else you have something drawing a LOT of current
 
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