2004 truck 5.7 core

[Johnny Mac]

I got all the pushrods all marked with location and top/bottom. The intakes are longer on the Eagle heads because they raised the port and rocker shaft. I was wondering about cams and aftermarket lifters with this being a positive stop system.

We (I) build eagle hemi's here at pace performance semi regularly...I have yet to have a set of stock pushrods work after a cam swap. Not knocking what you got at all my friend, i think you scored some good parts. Just stating i'm pretty positive that out of the old, and the new vvt pushrods...neither are going to be the correct length. So you'll probably have to measure and get some made.

 

[MoparLeo]

As one of the many who have experienced losing a valve seat, I can tell you that overheating the engine has nothing to do with the seats coming loose. You will find that the common denominator on when/how this happens is when you have driven the car up to normal operating temperature and then shut it down. Do your shopping or whatever you were doing, restart the engine and it sounds like a can full of loose bolts. No overheating, no high rpms, not even driving. It happens at start up. When you rebuild/replace your heads, you must also replace the intake manifold as it is near impossible to remove all of the debris that goes into it. New factory intakes run $500. Most head and all engine rebuilders will not warranty the engine/heads without proof of the intake being replaced.
Other problems over the years are the oil pump and timing chain/tensioners.
As stated before, all head bolt fasteners are single use torque to yield type. I replaced all head, rod and main fasteners with ARP. Studs on the heads. I would upgrade all fasteners. Do it once, do it right. Remember 5w20 oil .
Here is some info on the differences in the early and late 5.7. The 6.1 and 6.4 Gen III hemi.
Gen 3 Hemi Cylinder Head Comparison

 

[mischiefdart]

As one of the many who have experienced losing a valve seat, I can tell you that overheating the engine has nothing to do with the seats coming loose. You will find that the common denominator on when/how this happens is when you have driven the car up to normal operating temperature and then shut it down. Do your shopping or whatever you were doing, restart the engine and it sounds like a can full of loose bolts. No overheating, no high rpms, not even driving. It happens at start up. When you rebuild/replace your heads, you must also replace the intake manifold as it is near impossible to remove all of the debris that goes into it. New factory intakes run $500. Most head and all engine rebuilders will not warranty the engine/heads without proof of the intake being replaced.
Here is some info on the differences in the early and late 5.7. The 6.1 and 6.4 Gen III hemi.
Gen 3 Hemi Cylinder Head Comparison

I have done a bunch of reading on the gen III but as you know not all information on the Internet is correct. It is nice to know that someone has actual build experience. I have some old 5.7 pushrods to build a tool for measuring correct length. Is there a standard lifter preload distance or are the aftermarket parts different than factory?

 

[MoparLeo]

Contact Modern Muscle. The phone number is in the article that I posted. They have all of your answers. Take advice from the people that actually do the engine building for engine component advice.

 

[kb67mopar]

As one of the many who have experienced losing a valve seat, I can tell you that overheating the engine has nothing to do with the seats coming loose. You will find that the common denominator on when/how this happens is when you have driven the car up to normal operating temperature and then shut it down. Do your shopping or whatever you were doing, restart the engine and it sounds like a can full of loose bolts. No overheating, no high rpms, not even driving. It happens at start up. When you rebuild/replace your heads, you must also replace the intake manifold as it is near impossible to remove all of the debris that goes into it. New factory intakes run $500. Most head and all engine rebuilders will not warranty the engine/heads without proof of the intake being replaced.
Other problems over the years are the oil pump and timing chain/tensioners.
As stated before, all head bolt fasteners are single use torque to yield type. I replaced all head, rod and main fasteners with ARP. Studs on the heads. I would upgrade all fasteners. Do it once, do it right. Remember 5w20 oil .
Here is some info on the differences in the early and late 5.7. The 6.1 and 6.4 Gen III hemi.
Gen 3 Hemi Cylinder Head Comparison

FYI 5w-20 oil only applies to VVT engines (09+) earlier engines were 5w-30. Also worth noting that most 03-04 engines didn't have this problem, Chryco changed seat vendors for sometime in 05 and it took a while for the problem to become apparent. So if looking for a replacement set of heads either really early heads or eagle heads with thicker gaskets.

 

[408 swinger]

My truck is a 2008 1500 Sport with the 5.7 non-eagle. It requires 5w20. Not trying to start a pissing match. That's what the manual and the fill cap on the engine says. Wife's truck is and 04 1500, it says 5w30. Somewhere in between is the switch.

 

[kb67mopar]

My truck is a 2008 1500 Sport with the 5.7 non-eagle. It requires 5w20. Not trying to start a pissing match. That's what the manual and the fill cap on the engine says. Wife's truck is and 04 1500, it says 5w30. Somewhere in between is the switch.

No worries. I had an 04 and my 03 engine both say 5w-30. I also know the cam phaser and MDS solenoids like the 5w20. So I suppose it makes sense that when they went to MDS they switched to 5W-20. Thanks for the correction.