2006 Sebring 2.4l Timing Belt and Idle issue

[gzig5]

Does anyone have any experience replacing timing belt on a 2.4L DOHC engine that would be in a 06 Sebring? Looking at one with 105k miles for my son. It is really clean, seems to be well maintained. It is at the mileage to replace the timing belt and I am pretty sure it hasn't been done yet. I think it is about a $800 paid job, but I'd do it myself if I don't need $500 worth of special tools. Car is going to need front struts I think too. Rest of it seems pretty good, new brakes, good tires, nice inside and out. New alternator, coil, and wires.

Guy says it has a cold idle issue but runs OK when warm. I drove it, it was already warmed up and it idled a tad rough. But when going down the road it seemed to be fine and the trans shifted OK. New coil/wires were probably going after the issue but didn't fix it. I'm wondering what else it could be? Fuel injection or a sensor of some sort? No warning lights on the dash.

I need to wrap my head around these issues if I'm going to make an offer. Asking price is in line with Blue Book but I need to figure I'm putting at least some money for parts on the belt and struts. Appreciate any input because decent used cars in my budget range are few and far between.

 

[Brooks James]

Get diagnostics run on it, i have seen where idle problems were everything from a crossed wire to expensive sensors. Autozone will run diagnostics in it for free.
To be sure i would take it to the dealership. I dont know what mopar charges but the gm dealership Ive gone to charge around $150, which is cheap insurance. Be wary if cheap ones to buy, many will only display basic codes.

 

[HemiSSDart]

If it spent all it's life in WI then check the rear strut upper aluminum mounts, the one's in my wifes 2004 Sebring turned to dust...

 

[gzig5]

If it spent all it's life in WI then check the rear strut upper aluminum mounts, the one's in my wifes 2004 Sebring turned to dust...

Not sure where it was before they bought it four years ago. It does have a little rust on the rear wheel well lip but damn near every chrysler ever built will rust there in this local. Other than that it looks pretty good, but I need to crawl under it. I'm much more worried about some surprise under the hood.

 

[RedFish]

The best thing about todays vehicles is, There are so dang many of them with the same services needed. I helped my grand daughter get into a 2004 Honda Odyssey minivan ( over 200K miles ) without knowng much about them. So far (over 2 years), climate controller, a window regulator, a radiator, a power steering hose, a starter, ignition switch. Everything I needed to know to do these repairs myself was on Youtube. Didn't cost a dime to fix the climate controller or the ignition switch. Little consolation since transmission rebuild was 2845.00 . I did watch the Youtube video on pulling that trans. Not a job for this old man. Good luck with whatever you buy.

 

[jos51700]

I can't speak for the room you'll have on that chassis, but first gen neon has more space inside than a drug mule, 2nd gen neon doesn't have enough space to slide the title between the motor and the frame, but the timing belt itself? Easy as they get. Only special tool you need is a puller to get the damper off, and AZ rents those (a regular 3 jaw will break the damper). Twin cam isn't too big a deal if you have some clamps laying around.

Water pump is a bunch of 6mm screws. Find ya missing 10mm socket and you're golden.

You'll need a big c clamp or bench vise to compress the timing chain tensioner, and a drill bit or quality Alen wrench for a grenade pin. Impact gun for crank bolt. Antiseize for reassembly. Dead blow hammer to reinstall damper, so you don't jack the crank threads.

Clean the iac valve. With some mileage, they get a little coked up. Plugs, wires, and tb clean are all I've ever needed to keep mine running well. I got over 400k miles out of a 2.0, with maybe five oil changes for 300k of those miles. Mobil1, just like your Viper.

So far as struts, what Sebring is it? Remember, one Sebring was all Mopar, one was a re-bodied Eclipse.
Struts are, generally, painless. Get em loaded, don't jack with spring compressors. Plan on doing all four corners, the cost to do the rears is usually less than the second trip to the alignment shop.

If you start all that on Saturday morning, I'd be surprised if you don't find yourself wondering what to do with the rest of your day.