273 and 318 doner parts for 340 Build

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Balance no doubt. And I bet a buck that a 340 crank is lighter than a 273...
 
j par said:
I would say that you've already saved $500 on the Block. If it was me I'd sell all all that crap and spent $1,400 on a complete stroker kit bearings Rings light rods the whole nine yards and have gobs of power beyond your World Imagine Nation. By the time the Machine Shop gets done buying Pistons refurbishing rods and grinding your Crank and adding the cost of bearings, Ten Bucks says you have had enough money to buy a stroker kit....
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Is that a new band or something? Jk

Yeah, stroking it is always good....pffffft har har....But seriously, talk about a world of difference in power.
 
While I understand the rational on the oiling holes on the earlier rods. they are not necessary. The bores will stay well oiled without them. Mopar did away from them later in pretty much everything IIRC. (Perhaps that's due to less chance of raw gas in an EFI engine's cylinders and washing off the oil in the bores, versus a carb'd engine getting flooded.)

And don't be scared of the KB hyper pistons. The light weight in the pistons is a real bonus in turning up the rev's and lowering the bottom end stress.
 
j par said:
I would say that you've already saved $500 on the Block. If it was me I'd sell all all that crap and spent $1,400 on a complete stroker kit bearings Rings light rods the whole nine yards and have gobs of power beyond your World Imagine Nation. By the time the Machine Shop gets done buying Pistons refurbishing rods and grinding your Crank and adding the cost of bearings, Ten Bucks says you have had enough money to buy a stroker kit...
But to answer your question I think all the stuff you using what you just fine.
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I will review the machine shop quote next week. We will be looking at the cost of the reman bill vs the stroker kit. Although my shop says you cant get a "good" 340 stroker kit for less than $1800 bucks. Do you have any personal experience with a budget stroker kit?
 
You bet I have experience with a stroker kit and it's all good experience too, wouldn't turn back....
Do not let the machine shop purchase any parts for you like kits or anything they will mark them up to make a profit. You buy them and bring them to the shop. Ask me how I know....
Let them make their money off of Machining work and assembly if needed but not buying parts that you can buy yourself from Jegs or Summit like they will do and mark them up.
 
Go to Summit and Jegs and look at stroker kits. They're all ship dropped from the manufacturer like scat. And even if you call Scott they will tell you that it's cheaper to buy it from Summit or Jegs then buy it from them because they buy in such quantity. Now I personally wanted 40 over Pistons for my stroker instead of the normal 30 over. So it took a few extra days.
 
j par said:
Go to Summit and Jegs and look at stroker kits. They're all ship dropped from the manufacturer like scat. And even if you call Scott they will tell you that it's cheaper to buy it from Summit or Jegs then buy it from them because they buy in such quantity. Now I personally wanted 40 over Pistons for my stroker instead of the normal 30 over. So it took a few extra days.
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What is you opinion on forged vs cast cranks in the stroker engine. I'm only building a weekend street car and funds are not without limits.

Summit has The 9000 series cast crank, forged pistons and I-beam rods kit (1-98113BI) is $1523.97 and the same kit with forged crank is $1,985.97 (1-48033BI).

I will see what the machine shop quotes next week. If we get within $500 of the kit it a no Brainer.
 
My car is a full strip car And I use the cast crank and I beam rods and some nice icon Pistons with total seal rings. So far it's been Bulletproof
MObarracuda said:
What is you opinion on forged vs cast cranks in the stroker engine. I'm only building a weekend street car and funds are not without limits.

Summit has The 9000 series cast crank, forged pistons and I-beam rods kit (1-98113BI) is $1523.97 and the same kit with forged crank is $1,985.97 (1-48033BI).

I will see what the machine shop quotes next week. If we get within $500 of the kit it a no Brainer.
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Ok...with your advise and direction I finally understand what the register on a tourqe converter and its mating feature on the drive shaft.

To help others I have included pictures of the end of my 1967 273 crank and the large register of a tourqe converter on my 1969 A904 from a 318 to help first timers see the difference please see the attached pictures. The 273 has a small 1.551" diameter feature where register of the tourqe converter is designed to fit. This feature keeps the tourqe converter concentric to the crank under load. The picture of the register on the tourqe converter is from a 1969 transmission that was mated to a 318 that measures 1.82.

Now I have to go and pull the temp engine and trans from my Barracuda I just installed yesterday while my 340 block is out at the machine shop. I have A 1977 318 in front of the 1967 A904. Although the everything bolts up the slop between the tourqe converter and the crank will ruin the pump on the transmission. Thanks FABO contributors for saving me from unnecessary damage.

IMG_9447.JPG


IMG_9448.JPG
 
I will pull the crank from the 1969 318 for the 340 build if cost of reconditioning my 318 crank and 273 rods vs the cost of a stroker kit. If the differential is less than $500-$600 I'm going with the stroker kit.

The pictures below are the part numbers from the light 273 connecting rods.

IMG_9427.JPG


IMG_9428.JPG
 
pishta said:
340 crank had the throws drilled to offset the 129g heavier pistons and 32g heavier rods of the 340. 273 rods will hold up. Cast cranks are usually heavier than forged. When you got a "340 forged" crank from PAW it was a forged 318 poly or 273 that had its throws drilled and register resized.

instead of adding heavy $$ metal to the throws, remove metal from the crankpin side.
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Cast cranks are NOT heavier than forged cranks.

Do not drill the crank pin for balance. That is not cool.


To the OP...if you can use the later model (70 and later) timing cover and water pump. Unless it's an early car or you don't want to get the correct radiator, the later stuff is nicer.
 
For me it was all kind of a no-brainer. By the time I had my crank turned, my rods resize, and bought new Pistons, rings, and bearings the bang for the buck was in the stroker kit. Sure it was a little more but in the end more power then I would ever need on the street.
After that bottom end you can't ALMOST do anything wrong with Cam and heads...
 
FYI my next build will not be a stroker. I'm not trying to jump on this stroker bandwagon because I have one. But again bang for buck...
 
j par said:
FYI my next build will not be a stroker. I'm not trying to jump on this stroker bandwagon because I have one. But again bang for buck...
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So what is this "next build" you speak of? Some super top secret deal or can it be spoken of in public?

Just curious.
 
I have 3 tons of Parts left over from stair step in my way to what I have. I want to restomod my 41 Studebaker with a Mopar drivetrain since I have so many parts available. That will be likely another year or two away.
YR- I left you a video on that unrecognized rock and roll band thread on the general discussion.
 
j par said:
I have 3 tons of Parts left over from stair step in my way to what I have. I want to restomod my 41 Studebaker with a Mopar drivetrain since I have so many parts available. That will be likely another year or two away.
YR- I left you a video on that unrecognized rock and roll band thread on the general discussion.
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10-4 I'll go check it out.
 
j par said:
I have 3 tons of Parts left over from stair step in my way to what I have. I want to restomod my 41 Studebaker with a Mopar drivetrain since I have so many parts available. That will be likely another year or two away.
YR- I left you a video on that unrecognized rock and roll band thread on the general discussion.
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Why didn't you tell us you were in a band?

Hell, I'm impressed you can cover Metallica!
 
The small register in the big crank wont ruin the pump initially, but it WILL break the flexplate! I broke my '340 in front of a 65 904' combo (every ear cracked) and a piece actually flew out and hit the floorboard, thats what told me to look under there and Shazam, all were cracked. I had not realized that there was a mismatch as this was like pre-internet so the warning was never heard.
 
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