273 hot start issue

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jsmay

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webster ny
hey everyone, first off great site! I recently picked up a clean 1969 Dodge Dart custom, 273 2bbl. it runs mint, but once its been running for 20 min, and shut it off, it won't start....not even click or turn the motor. If you let it sit for 20-30min it fires right up. So I think its the starter getting too hot, but this car doesn't have headers. I'm wondering if the starter is just on its last legs? So... do i upgrade to a mini starter? or will another stock one work fine?
thanks guy's!
 
It could be the starter, battery terminals, battery, starting relay, or a loose electrical connection.

It is often a good idea to further test before changing parts.

Here are some tests:

Next time it will not start, clunk the starter with a small hammer and try again. If that works it could be the starter, or connections.

A volt meter can be used to observe the battery voltage at the battery terminals. You will need some help to check while someone turns the key. If the voltage drops to about 10V, the battery could be at fault. If the voltage is near 12V, then check at the battery cables, if more than a few tenths of a volt less then the battery connections need to be cleaned and tightened.

A volt meter can also be used to test the starter relay. Things to observe would be battery terminal voltage, start signal, and solenoid voltage when key is turned (12V is good). Also the voltage at the neutral safety should be near zero. Ground the black meter lead for these tests.
 
My brother-in-law had a similar issue with a chevy pickup years ago. I found a small wire had been cut and pieced, twisted together and barely taped. Engine heat caused the connection to come and go. So the problem doesn't have to be the larger wires or the starter. A fault in the little wire from a neutral safety switch can cause the same symptom.
The starter relay has a smal yellow wire that should get 12 volts from the switch in start position. The neutral safety switch supplies a ground for that 12 volts on a brown or black wire, causes the relay to click/close sending power to the starter on the larger wires.
Jst for the sake of mentionng and may not be related but...
If this car has had electronic ignition added, there is a chance that your starter relay has approx' 7 volts going to it when the switch is in the run position. That would be the result of improper wiring due to some incorrect info on the internet.
 
Well the thing should at LEAST click.

Get the hood open next time you try it, and listen for the starter relay to click. If that's not happening, one of three things:

1 It's not getting crank voltage (yellow wire) TO the start relay

2 The start relay is not seeing a ground on the neutral safety switch

3 The start relay is bad

IF THE start relay is clicking, BUT the starter does NOT, try jumpering across the only two exposed terminals on the start relay. If no crank, then the problem is

battery, or cables, or starter
 
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