273 timing sprockets help

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dart65

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Im in the middle of tearing apart my 273 for a cam and lifter and timing chain replacement when I ran into a problem. I can't seem to get the timing chain and sprockets off. The cam sprocket wants to come off only to a point then, when I try to get the crank sprocket loose it does not budge at all. Is there some trick or method to getting them off. This is my first time replacing a cam. The books I read say both must come off together and it is a back and forth affair between crank and cam. However, my crank sprocket "feels" welded on its so tight. What is the secret I can post pics if that helps at all. Thanks
 
We did the same in dads 273, you may need to pry behind each sprocket alternating cam, crank, cam, crank. Once the cam gear is off there is a cam retaining plate behind it with 4 bolts.
 

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We did the same in dads 273, you may need to pry behind each sprocket alternating cam, crank, cam, crank. Once the cam gear is off there is a cam retaining plate behind it with 4 bolts.

That is what I've been trying to do but I just can't seem to get any leverage to pry the crank sprocket off. The engine is still in the car too. Is there some type of puller I can use?
 
You could use a puller, just be careful not to booger the threads in the crank snout.
 
You could use a puller, just be careful not to booger the threads in the crank snout.

Thanks for all the help I got the crank sprocket off with a puller and a metal plate covering the crank snout. How do I get the new one back on though? Is there another tool out there I can use to make it easier??
 
If you'll pick the woodruf key out of the crank you will likely find it distorted. That is where the resistance to proper slip fit comes from. A new key and crocus cloth clean the journal. Crank gear should tap on with the hammer handle.
 
RedFish is correct on the key being the hangup. Yours probably tilted a bit to lock it on. Notice there is a reduced step on the crank that helps you get it started. Things to consider that I recall:

The upper bolt, passenger side is supposed to have a thru hole to drip oil on the chain. Mine didn't. I used the later design (Magnum?) of leaving out that bolt and adding a "drip plate" which I bought for ~$12 at the Dealer.

You should have an oil slinger outside the crank sprocket. Search for photos of which way to put it. There is also a felt washer which goes inside the crank damper (read, wish I had), it should be in the seal kit. For sure, change the front seal.

I used one of the "3 slot" timing kits, and set mine at the +4 deg advanced dots for better mileage and low-end torque, plus allows for chain wear. Whichever kit you use, align the sprockets so the two dots are closest together. At that point, #1 should be at TDC on exhaust stroke.
 
RedFish is correct on the key being the hangup. Yours probably tilted a bit to lock it on. Notice there is a reduced step on the crank that helps you get it started. Things to consider that I recall:

The upper bolt, passenger side is supposed to have a thru hole to drip oil on the chain. Mine didn't. I used the later design (Magnum?) of leaving out that bolt and adding a "drip plate" which I bought for ~$12 at the Dealer.

You should have an oil slinger outside the crank sprocket. Search for photos of which way to put it. There is also a felt washer which goes inside the crank damper (read, wish I had), it should be in the seal kit. For sure, change the front seal.

I used one of the "3 slot" timing kits, and set mine at the +4 deg advanced dots for better mileage and low-end torque, plus allows for chain wear. Whichever kit you use, align the sprockets so the two dots are closest together. At that point, #1 should be at TDC on exhaust stroke.

Thanks I used a puller to get the old crank sprocket off. I will definately make sure the oilling bolt is there I did not even notice that is was different. I have a summit steel crank and cam sprocket with double roller chain on their way as well as a new mopar woodruff key and timing tensioner just for inusurance.
 
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