Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I see all the usual suspects have chimed in with their nonsense. Thank you to those who went against the onslaught & were brave enough to say MVA [ or locked timing ] worked for me. The saddest part of this thread is that I thought I had a friend amongst the posters. His comments show what a back-stabber he is.
Now for some facts [ listening TT.5? ]:
- I never tried to hide anything about the original build; using a cam with 20* less duration can be seen in the link in post#1. The reason I did not post the whole story was that the print would be too small to read, so I just provided the important info so that it made sense.
- I too would have suggested a smaller cam if I was advising the chap, but some people, for various reasons, want to stick with what they have & tune it as best they can. [ In this case I will disagree with Steve & say it needs a LOT more than 28* for best idle ]
- yes, I constantly, recommend MVA because it works. There are times when it will not work such as when the idle vac is too low; then, locked timing is an option.
- the nonsense/lies from Newbomb Turk about not publishing my own results. I have done it many times. But who am I, nobody has heard of me in the USA? Why should we believe you? He must think I am as stupid as he is... That is why I provide links to that of other people, much smarter than some on this forum, who have been using MVA & getting nicer running engines.
- it shows how little some know when, because of their own ignorance in trying to discredit MVA benefits, claim the rest of the ign curve will be compromised. I have done more MVA tuning than Turk has had hot dinners. I have three booked in at the moment, all different brands.
-lastly, for those who want learn about MVA benefits. Nick, Mopar man of Nicks Garage, did a dyno tune about 2 weeks back on a 455 Buick. At about 18 min in, he connects up MVA with the engine idling & you can hear the idle smooth out & increase about 200 rpm. He then talks about MVA for a minute or two. Maybe somebody could link the video? The idle got smoother because more of the mixture got burned at the right time & made more HP, which is why rpm increased.
- MVA works on all brands when suitable. Logo on the valve cover doesn't matter.
Calling Nick a tuner is a stretch. A looooooooooooong stretch.
Never have I seen the guy do anything other than twist the distributor to move the timing curve up or down. That’s it.
Never have I watched the guy read a plug. Ever. And I’ve seen many of his videos.
As a smart guy on Moparts always says, guys don’t use a curve because they don’t know how to do it. And because it’s easy and doesn’t require any testing.
I can show dyno numbers that proves what locked out and all in early curves do to torque and power. And it’s absolutely provable. And it happens every time.
If you want to piss away torque and power because you are too lazy to do the work or too obtuse to learn that’s on you.
I’ll continue to jump in and try and teach people the correct way to tune. It’s harder to do and it takes more time, effort and work to do it.
I’ll break it down as simply as I can.
You really need to get on an engine dyno (not a chassis dyno because you can’t load the engine) and find BEST torque at every 1000 rpm.
Then you need a distributor machine so you can get the curve in the distributor to match what the engine told you it wants on the dyno.
Just changing springs and stopping the curve isn’t getting a curve.
You see Bewy, I’ve LEARNED that engines, ALL ENGINES want LESS timing at and around peak torque and MORE timing at and around peak power.
That is the physics of it. I know you understand this, which means you are either so bull headed or lazy or both that you ignore the facts and continue to give out bad advice.
My advice for anyone building an engine is this, and it’s not easy, quick or cheap.
Measure to verify your compression ratio. Using published piston volumes is not accurate enough.
Make big boy decisions about your build. If you want a “top fuel” idle then live with the results. You will have an engine with shitty performance that is a nightmare to tune. Fuel mileage will be hideous.
In my opinion, once the giggles of the idle wears off the big cam, low compression engine will still be exactly what it is. A fuel burning, low performance pig.
You need to match your compression ratio to your cam timing. If you do that, you won’t need 30 plus degrees of initial timing to get even a decent idle.
The engine will burn the fuel much more efficiently, run cooler and use LESS timing (which reduces pumping losses) and fuel consumption will be less. Most times far less timing.
The engine will be more sensitive to header tuning.
The expansion ratio is higher with higher compression. That makes more power.
It’s simple really. Low compression, big cam engines are a loser on every count except idle.
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