3.23 sure grip chunk for sale. (pics).

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cudaspaz

cudaspaz

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3.23-1 ratio clutch style sure grip.

Pulled out and wrapped in plastic since last summer to use my buddys 3.91.

No noise and no problems from this unit and pinion seal is dry as a bone.

I have never gone through this rear nor did I need to, and I have never done holeshots with this third member.
The rpms on the highway are great and it still has plenty of pep off the line.

I think its small yoke and pics should explain.

Asking $400.oo plus shipping, usually about $90-100 bucks but will check according to your zip.

would also swap this unit for a good 3.91 or 4.10 unit. in 742 or 489 case.

If shipped, this will be in a custom wooden crate, packed safely.

Located in Atlanta Georgia and willing to ship to US states only.

PM any questions.

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Wish you would have posted this a week ago im changing ring and pinion right now. Good luck with the sale. taking 391 out of 489 case.
 
Has the thrust button has been removed? Looks like it in one picture. I'd be interested #2 after red67gts.
 
my pm does not seem to be working, try to pm me and see if I can reply to it, thanks Joe
 
65 Dartman said:
Has the thrust button has been removed? Looks like it in one picture. I'd be interested #2 after red67gts.
Click to expand...

I checked, they look like they are intact as I checked for more info on the web since you mentioned that and looked closely at the diff.
Looks to be buttons pressed into a hole.

If they were missing there would one smooth hole with nothing pressed into it, right.

Is there supposed to be a roll pin that connects the two? I don't see that.

I have the green bearings on my axles, Does that matter?
 
cudaspaz said:
I checked, they look like they are intact as I checked for more info on the web since you mentioned that and looked closely at the diff.
Looks to be buttons pressed into a hole.

If they were missing there would one smooth hole with nothing pressed into it, right.

Is there supposed to be a roll pin that connects the two? I don't see that.

I have the green bearings on my axles, Does that matter?
Click to expand...

Looks like the thrust buttons are MIA to me
 
No thrust buttons in there. Notice the hole in the center in the next to last pic. If someone is running stock axles with the tapered roller bearings this is a simple fix.
 
Button is MIA. To run the Green bearings, I believe you need to remove the button. I did in my B-Cuda. They are easy to put back in. Not so easy to remove after you swap pumpkins, and forgot to take it out. :( It can be done in the car though...
 
I have the green bearing axles installed.

Appears that pin is missing only, buttons look intact.

Anyways I ran this chunk in my green axle rear with no problems.

Thanks for pointing that out to me because I had no clue they were missing nor did I know what I was looking at anyways...LOL.

Learn something every day.

Sale pending.
 
your moneyorder was put in mail Sat. I am running green bearing also so not a problem,Joe
 
BBBCUDA said:
Button is MIA. To run the Green bearings, I believe you need to remove the button. I did in my B-Cuda. They are easy to put back in. Not so easy to remove after you swap pumpkins, and forgot to take it out. :( It can be done in the car though...
Click to expand...

Why do you need to take the buttons out for green bearings? What happens if you leave them in? I left mine in after switching to the green beaqrings and now the darn thing doesnt work..Is that why? Did I screw up by not taking otu the thrust spacers?
 
chances are your axles will put side load on the bearings and cause them to fail. unless they are a little shorter than stock axles
 
cudaman51 said:
chances are your axles will put side load on the bearings and cause them to fail. unless they are a little shorter than stock axles
Click to expand...


Thats it. Mine won't tighten up to the lock rings on the bearings with the buttons in. If I just bulled them down, I'm sure something would give. I did find you can remove the buttons while the axle is together. It's not fun, but it was quicker than pulling the pumpkin again. I welded a small punch to a long steel rod. The punch has to be small enough to center in the button, and punch out the roll pin holding them together. I then taped a magnet to the rod, and fished out the parts. Took about 10 minutes. I'll check first next time. :banghead:
 
BBBCUDA said:
Thats it. Mine won't tighten up to the lock rings on the bearings with the buttons in. If I just bulled them down, I'm sure something would give. I did find you can remove the buttons while the axle is together. It's not fun, but it was quicker than pulling the pumpkin again. I welded a small punch to a long steel rod. The punch has to be small enough to center in the button, and punch out the roll pin holding them together. I then taped a magnet to the rod, and fished out the parts. Took about 10 minutes. I'll check first next time. :banghead:
Click to expand...

Me thinks this is a good post for a lot of people to learn something new.
In all the diff posts I looked through I never heard any mention of these crazy thrust buttons spacers.
 
cudaman51 said:
chances are your axles will put side load on the bearings and cause them to fail. unless they are a little shorter than stock axles
Click to expand...

Maybe that is the reason that the green bearings are now available with a metal ring that sits flush with the outside of the axle housing. To keep the axle shaft from hitting the thrust buttons. My thrust buttons are sloppy loose in the center of the diff. they wiggle around when I push on them..Not just left and right, but all around like they are damaged in some way. I will remove them before I reinstall the carrier.
 
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