3 videos. 8 min, 1:45 min and 1:24 min sec to show strange overheating

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66DartSedan

66DartSedan

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I was driving thru NYC traffic for about 30 min before this video hit some bad traffic on 8th and did a lot of idling when i noticed the temp gauge going up.

I have no thermostat in right now and Im running it with water in my new Champion radiator

what I find interesting is the Fuel gauge seemed to go up along with the temp gauge.

Im thinking its not actually overheating and this is electrical problems Im seeing. But the fact that the temp gauge sets at a normal range and then slowly goes up when I was sitting, confuses me. Perhaps its both.


what I find interesting is the Fuel gauge seemed to go up along with the temp gauge.

2 min later

 
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Do you think it's just a gauge error? Maybe they aren't working correctly I didnt finish all three videos yet but I looks like the gas hand and the speedo is malfunctioning also.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Do you think it's just a gauge error? Maybe they aren't working correctly I didnt finish all three videos yet but I looks like the gas hand and the speedo is malfunctioning also.
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Im thinking maybe. But what would cause the gauge to be in a normal temp and then spike as it did and then drop back. idk.
 
If the fuel gauge is rising with the temp gUge it’s probably the clusters voltage regulator that is acting up.
 
abodyjoe said:
If the fuel gauge is rising with the temp gUge it’s probably the clusters voltage regulator that is acting up.
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And if it rises with rpm, that could be just be alternator output.Put a voltmeter on it and see what your alternator/regulator is doing from idle to 20 mph in whatever gear you were using in video#1.
That dash gauge regulator works by cycling full-on and full-off to create an average voltage, to power up the temp and fuel gauges. If battery voltage rises, so will the regulator output. The two gauges rising in unison is always an indicator of the IVR in action. And your IR gun is all the proof you need.
Now go put a thermostat in it before your engine-oil turns to muck.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
And if it rises with rpm, that could be just be alternator output.Put a voltmeter on it and see what your regulator is doing from idle to 20 mph in whatever gear you were using in video#1.
That dash gauge regulator works by cyclng full-on and full-off to create an average voltage, to power up the temp and fuel gauges. If battery voltage rises, so will the regulator output. The two gauges rising in unison is always an indicator of the IVR in action. And your IR gun is all the proof you need.
Now go put a thermostat in it before your engine-oil turns to muck.
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Well it also rose just idling. Which is what confuses me. But yes Ill check that out tomorrow with my voltmeter
 
The gauges run in slo-mo which is why this IVR system works. And the IVR is just a set of points in a small box with a heated wire wrapped around one leg. When the points close, it powers up the heater, which opens the points. As the heater cools, the points close and the cycle endlessly repeats until you turn the key off....... Occasionally, especially with age, the points stick closed longer than they should. At 50% on 50% off the gauges read normally. At 60% on they read high. The IVR is not adjustable. But you can build an electronic one from parts out of a computer, which is what I did in 1999, and my gauges are rock solid/no drifting/no spiking.
 
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I would buy a temp gauge hook it up and drive compare the new gauge to the dash gauge and see if the temp fluctuates if it dont you will know its just a gauge issue and not a overheat issue. Then you can start troubleshooting the dash.
 
You also need to put a thermostat in it. You can't idle for extended times with no thermostat to hold the water in the radiator and cool it.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I would buy a temp gauge hook it up and drive compare the new gauge to the dash gauge and see if the temp fluctuates if it dont you will know its just a gauge issue and not a overheat issue. Then you can start troubleshooting the dash.
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I got
dartfreak75 said:
I would buy a temp gauge hook it up and drive compare the new gauge to the dash gauge and see if the temp fluctuates if it dont you will know its just a gauge issue and not a overheat issue. Then you can start troubleshooting the dash.
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I got this gauge here, but lemme ask if the positive goes to the temp sensor, the negative to the dash as a ground what is the middle screw for..lost the instructions
20180930_162100.jpg
 
Pos is battery
Neg is battery neg (for light)
Third one is for sender.

As mentioned, get a voltmeter to go along side with temp gauge
 
Do you have a model number or anything? O need to know if it's a mechanical or electrical gauge It says you need an external electric source (ignition switch or headlights) to power it so I'm assuming that goes there I will send you the pdf I found
 
Tooljunkie said:
Pos is battery
Neg is battery neg (for light)
Third one is for sender.

As mentioned, get a voltmeter to go alon
dartfreak75 said:
Do you have a model number or anything? O need to know if it's a mechanical or electrical gauge It says you need an external electric source (ignition switch or headlights) to power it so I'm assuming that goes there I will send you the pdf I found
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Its electrical for sure
Pos is to the battery, middle is to the neg on battey and the middle is to the sender.
Click to expand...
 
dartfreak75 said:
Do you have a model number or anything? O need to know if it's a mechanical or electrical gauge It says you need an external electric source (ignition switch or headlights) to power it so I'm assuming that goes there I will send you the pdf I found
Click to expand...

Its electrical for sure
 
Tooljunkie said:
Pos is battery
Neg is battery neg (for light)
Third one is for sender.

As mentioned, get a voltmeter to go along side with temp gauge
Click to expand...
Okay outta no where both gauges now are dead.

Used my test light all fuses getting power.

Dash lights work but not gauges. I took a look under I don't see anything strange
 
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