Salty Dog
Well-Known Member
Nice. I would have taken the balancer bolt out before getting that far. Sometimes there a royal beeeouch.
Yep they are sometimes but this one came out with ease.Nice. I would have taken the balancer bolt out before getting that far. Sometimes there a royal beeeouch.
I picked up a low mile 1970 318.727. 83/4 355 sure grip for the 66 Dart.
My plan is to do a low budget build, If the jugs measure out good i'll use the stock pistons, dingle ball the jugs and rering,I'll either use the 675's and do a port job like 1 wilds thread ( By the way great thread Justin, looking forward to more !!) or use a set of 302's, and a LD340 intake,
Now i'm trying to figure out a good cam choice Was thinking of the voodoo 268,Any thoughts or suggestions?? Oh i'll run a shif kit and a 3000 stall verter.
Thanks.:burnout:
That's a cool build on the cheap 604 sounds like it should work well for ya!I am essentially doing the same thing. Building my 318 in the cheep. As it is only going to be a temporary engine, I did not want to sink to much into it. Almost done so should know how it turned out soon. Here is what I did, with allot of advice from people on hear.
Stock low miles 1971 318 block pistons, rods (Lucked out hear. It had the heavy 340 bushed rods). Just gave her a good hone job, debugged the block, gave her a good cleaning, and new barrings and rings. Also added a windage tray, new pump, and a nos Milidon 70's deep pan.
Found a set of 273 commando heads. Figured it would help raise up the compression with the stock pistons. Did a good home port job, and gasket matching. Took them to a machine shop to have a set of bigger 1.88 and 1.60 stock 360 valves I had laying around installed. Also had a Edelbrock Per RPM spring kit installed.
For cam I went with a Comp Cams 20-223-3 lift .477in .480ex duration 224in 230ex. Also added 273 rockers and comp cams double roller chain.
Going to run an old Edelbrock LD4B intake, also gasket matched, and notched the center divider like they do on there newer intakes. And for now an Edelbrock 600 carb, since I have it.
Car will be running a manual 904 with a 2400 stall converter, and an 8 3/4 with 3.55 gears.
Should be a pretty good combo on the cheep. The only real expense is the head work. (yet to get the bill on that)
Yes it does 604 i think 1970 was the last year of the steel crank
Thanks for the info 2Darts i looked for some crank #'s today but could not find any?Last year of the forged steel crank in the 318 (and 273) was 1967. These cranks were balanced for the light duty rods. I've heard some maintain that the 3/4 ton and above trucks with 318s had forged cranks, but I have not been able to verify. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/318.html
If you have a forged crank and heavy duty rods, it would seem that you have a 340 (68-72) crank. Change from forged to cast cranks was a running change made as a running change sometime around February 1972. Here are the 340 crank part numbers.
1968-1971: forged crank, part number 2532457, 2128869, or 2843868; service part number, 2843868
1972-73: cast crank, 3462387, 3658393, or 3751841 (some 1974-86 cast cranks use the same 3462387 casting number as the 1973 340 crank); service part number 3751162
From what I've seen someone has lavished some attention on your 318. Hope you don't have to throw out much.
This is the big primary TQ. If your running a bit of compression and cam, it'll do.9054 75-76 400 HP AT F IE (3830569) 4098 5137 2005 1-1/2 (primary size)