318 low-rpm performance ........... for the NEWBE

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AJ/FormS

68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I wanted to put up a post for 318 newbe's to show what happens to low-rpm torque with various cam sizes and compression ratios, so that we all don't have to keep going over the same old questions. And since almost everybody has, or has had, a 318, usually an 8/1 variant, with a stock 240* cam, lets start there.
First of all,
forget about SCR (Static Compression Ratio). This number has little meaning other than being a tool to arrive at what we really want to know, which is the running cylinder pressure at WOT...... which we cannot actually ever know. What we are trying to do with our builds is to always keep the finished engine from self-destructing by way of detonation, when the running CYLINDER PRESSURE is too high for street gas. But, with every psi less than optimum, the engine loses power (EDIT:low-rpm torque). So most of us want to keep the pressure up as high as is safely possible. If you don't, then this post is not for you.
Ok
Since we cannot actually know the running cylinder pressure,
Smarter men than me, have by empirical data, determined safe "cranking pressure numbers", to get us into the ball-park, with various chamber designs. We'll get to that.
Most of us have or have had, a stock mid to late 70s, pos low-compression 318, and we know how those don't perform (EDIT; at low rpm)...... particularly when saddled with typical 2.76 gears and very low-stall convertors. So lets look at that first.
This smog-engine had a tiny cam IIRC, 240/248/112, with an ICA (Intake Closing Angle) of 48*(depending where you center it.) At sea level, this combo should crank about 140 psi, which reflects on the very low Dcr of just 7.1 to 1; and the Wallace Calculator predicts a V/P index of 116 remember this number. All compression pressures hereafter will be standardized at sealevel
For low-rpm
sub 3500rpm operation, this V/P number will be very important, as it helps us understand why some engines are so sucked out as compared to others that might even be smaller. The point is that we need to plump up this number, for street performance, which, a lot of it is below 3500 rpm.
Ok so lets organize that info to make it useful. What we need is the Scr/Dcr, the Ica, the predicted pressure, and the V/P, so for this combo;
Stk smog 318; 8:1Scr/7.1Dcr/48*Ica/140 psi/VP of 116 (this is lackluster and everyone knows it)
Now,
lets talk about the fuel. At a cranking cylinder pressure of 140psi, this 318 should run on the crappiest fuel imaginable. It is generally accepted that mid-grade 89 octane gas will support about 155psi CCP(Cranking Cylinder Pressure), in an open chamber design. So this 318 is already 15 psi down, and that is partly why the take-off is so lack-luster.
Since the upper limit is around 155, how do we get it there.
Well, there are three ways to change the pressure;
1) increase the SCR with a smaller total-chamber volume, or
2) Increase the Dcr with an earlier closing intake, or
3) by increasing the density of the air going into the engine, usually called, supercharging..
In the case of the factory engine, the cam is already very small, and supercharging is more money than most will want to spend, leaving us with increasing the Scr. So, we want to know how to get to 155 psi.
Going back to the Wallace Calculator, just keep upping the Scr until it spits out the desired 155psi, and I get, 8.7 as the number The New numbers are
Hi-comp 318; 8.7 Scr/7.7 Dcr/48* Ica/155psi/ VP of 130 (That's an increase of 12% !)
So your former smogger is now feeling 12% peppier, down low

But say, you had installed a 340 cam and made no compression changes. the New Ica is gonna be about 64*. and the new numbers are
Stk smog 318: 8.0 Scr/6.43 Dcr/64*Ica/122psi/ VP of 91 (thats a loss of pressure equal to 21.6%!)
So your former lackluster 318 is now feeling like a slanty, down low, unacceptable. Now you are forced to install a higher than stock stall, and hiway gears are also out.

So what do we have to do, to get the VP back up? Well 9.6 Scr will get you to 155psi, the numbers are;
hi-comp 318: 9.6 Scr/7.70 Dcr/ 64*Ica/155psi/ VP of 115 (notice that 115 and the original starting point of 116 are similar enough that at low-rpm your 340-cammed 318 is now feeling lackluster the same as it did when stock.

Now, my fellow 318 owners, I gotta tell ya that a VP of 116 is totally unacceptable with a 4-speed. And only works with an auto that has been stalled up, and for performance, forget the hiway gears. That 340 cam peaks around 5300 in a 340, with big-port heads. Put that on a factory open-chambered 318 with 2.76 gears and a 2000 stall, and you'll be timing your acceleration with a sundial; so don't do what I did.

So what's the answer?
Well firstly, we gotta figure out how to run more pressure.
So far, all my examples are with open chamber, no-squish heads, in which 155 psi is pushing the upper limit for 89gas. With closed-chambers and tight squish, and performance gears, plus 91gas, you might be able to push 165 psi. And lets get a different cam with a tighter LSA(Lobe Separation Angle), say 108, but still 340 specs. I get an Ica of 60*, the new numbers are;
very high comp 318; 9.8Scr/8.1Dcr/60*Ica/165 psi/ VP of 127 ( this is just barely on the lower edge of performance, but is as good as it gets with closed-chamber iron heads, and pump gas. If you need more bottom end than this, you are gonna have to sacrifice something.)

So what about alloy heads?
Well, with alloy heads, I myself have successfully run 195 psi without detonation and on 87E10. Others here on FABO say they have run a lil more pressure on better gas.
So let's pump up that 318 to the max with that 108*/340 cam. the new numbers are
max effort 318: 11.20 Scr/9.2Dcr/60*Ica/195psi/ VP of 150 ( now we're talking!) Lets go back to the 114* cam, with an Ica of 64*, and the number are;
max318/340 cam 11.55 Scr/9.1Dcr/64*Ica/195psi/VP of 145 ( notice the VP dropping)

So what should you do?
Answer; IDK, but I can tell you that I am addicted to a VP greater than 150, to the point of pulling out a nice cam that made 146 minimum. So, if I was ever stuck running a 318 again, I'm sorry but it will never have a 340 cam nor ever run at sub 165 psi pressures. Show me an iron head that can run 185 psi without detonation on 87E10, atta fair price, (EDIT: to compare with my alloy heads) and I would run it. Until then, I'm addicted to alloy heads.
For you, when on a budget, as most of you are, you do what you can afford, bearing in mind, as the VP goes down, the stall and gears have to go up, ........... at added cost. And since most of these old girls come with 2.76s and stalls between 1800 and 2200, those will have to go..... at added cost. By the time you add those up, it might have paid for new pistons and boring, and you just know a 50 yo engine needs a rebore anyway. For me, that's a given unless you just did it and like a DA stuck Low-C pistons in her....................................... lol. That's a joke, son, as Rooster Cogburn used to say. Don't do what I did
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Other
I have run a VP of up to 170 with my 367 cuber, and I can tell you, it is very addictive. It runs any gear I want it to, and even with a clutch, it's a dump-it and go deal, and will set the tires on fire almost any time. The lowest I have run is about 146, and I pulled that cam before the summer was ended, it was just too soft.

But if you can afford to bore a 318, then maybe you can afford a core 360 too, which will solve just about all your low-rpm issues. Say you want to run iron open chamber heads at 165 psi with a 360, to burn 91 gas at WOT.
With q-pad pistons say down around .012, and an 028 gasket, and say open chamber iron heads around 70cc, this comes in around 10.0Scr and you just install any cam with an Ica of 62, and the new numbers are;
360 cubes; 10.0Scr/8.1Dcr/ 62*Ica/ 166psi/ VP of 147. (see how easy that was!) Let the fun begin! No stall, no gears, no fuss, no nuttin', just slam it together and let her buck.
Well a lil fuss;
with open-chamber heads, you gotta set the Q which may require milling the pads off the pistons just a lil.
Ya know, I have run this VP with a 2bbl and still had a chitload of fun.
If ever you can afford closed chamber heads, you just mill the pads off the pistons, as required, install a new cam with a later ICA, and yur ready to go.

Here is the Wallace calculator......................
To read about VP, go here; V/P Index Calculation

EDIT
As usual, some of you have comprehension issues.

Guys
This article;
1) is all about; How to save money by doing it right the First Time and not having to buy extras like hi-stalls and performance gears, and
2) is all about; How to get torque at low-rpm, from the commonly available low-compression 318 that just about everybody has at least one of, and almost nobody wants to bring into the modern era with pistons and/or compression.
3) is addressed to NEWBE's
who are usually on a budget, and usually on a bolt-on binge that will quickly slide into disappointment, when the wrong cam is installed..
4) is all about; Not listening to the freaks who just want to spend poor newbe's life-savings.


This article
has nothing to do with making absolute power.
I mean, I even put it in the title for you DAs. And then, I settled the issue in the opening paragraph.
When you see this line as below,

________________________________________________________________
that's a page break, indicating something else is to follow.
And so, right-after that page-break, I prefaced what was to come, with; "other";
And so then, I included a bit of my history
____________________________________________________________________

^^ page-break
I just don't get you guys.
I'm trynta help Newbe's with 318s to not get into a disappointing situation, that is just gonna cost more money, to get out of. Most of us have been down this road, so you all know what I'm talking about. But as so often happens, everybody shows up with guns ablazing.
 
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i'm just curious... is gas so bad in Canada that you can't get anything better than 87 octane? pretty much every pump in my state has 93... (you just mention 87 a bit so i'm curious why..)
 
Thanks for the effort, but I fail to see why a difference in displacement of "only" 22 CI makes the 340 an easily tunable powerhouse but makes the 318 totally unsuited for any performance mods without changing everything you can possibly change, and then still throwing away any low RPM performance.

It's just not logical.

...but just for the sake of argument, how does AJ feel about starting with a 9.2:1 engine?

The early 67-69 variant, or the late LA roller variant that also comes with 302 heads and as mentioned, roller cam support right from the factory.

Also, factory replacement 9.2:1 pistons in a 1970 to 83 "LC" engine could be an option to get that static compression starting line bump, could they not?
 
Thanks for the effort, but I fail to see why a difference in displacement of "only" 22 CI makes the 340 an easily tunable powerhouse but makes the 318 totally unsuited for any performance mods without changing everything you can possibly change, and then still throwing away any low RPM performance.

It's just not logical.

...but just for the sake of argument, how does AJ feel about starting with a 9.2:1 engine?

The early 67-69 variant, or the late LA roller variant that also comes with 302 heads and as mentioned, roller cam support right from the factory.

Also, factory replacement 9.2:1 pistons in a 1970 to 83 "LC" engine could be an option to get that static compression starting line bump, could they not?

The answer is "Magic!!!" same reason a 408 is ungoldy amazing and a 390 is garbage

:)

weird-als-kitchen-magic.gif
 
The answer is "Magic!!!" same reason a 408 is ungoldy amazing and a 390 is garbage :)

I've come to learn that also applies to 383 vs 400, 340 vs 360, and even 327 vs 350!

Despite what logic might dictate, and the "gospel except as noted" mantra about "no replacement for displacement".
 
I've come to learn that also applies to 383 vs 400, 340 vs 360, and even 327 vs 350!

Despite what logic might dictate, and the "gospel except as noted" mantra about "no replacement for displacement".

Well.. the displacement thing is just true and provable but over 20cid.. meh.. and boost makes up for everything in the end anyway :)
 
BTW... just to put this to bed..... Here is a $10k+ 429 boss stroker being beaten by a nearly stock 318... in all fairness the 318 was built by the #1 mopar guy but still.... that's like 35% less motor cubes and pulls i out..

 
so the take away seems to be if you have a 318 and you don't have the dosh for aluminum heads or the means to up the compression with a rebuild, just abandon all hope. or, like get a 360.

it's almost as if you can't burn rubber through 2nd gear you might as well not put forth any effort.
 
i'm just curious... is gas so bad in Canada that you can't get anything better than 87 octane? pretty much every pump in my state has 93... (you just mention 87 a bit so i'm curious why..)
We got 93/94 in Ontario but no E85.
 
We got 93/94 in Ontario but no E85.

I figured... i don't see the point of building a motor for 87 unless you can't get better or are just building a farm truck
 
I've come to learn that also applies to 383 vs 400, 340 vs 360, and even 327 vs 350!

Despite what logic might dictate, and the "gospel except as noted" mantra about "no replacement for displacement".
The 318 takes all the parts a 340/360 basically can, on some max effort the bore is gonna limit it. But for the general hp were talking about a 318 should be able to build similar to stall to shift point hp as the others just gonna be at a higher rpm generally.

Now if we limit it like factory and want peak hp around 4000-5000 rpm then basically every step up in 20-30 cid is a step up in possible performance why the big 3 has those steps in their engines from 6 cylinder to big block. 170 198 225, 273 318 340 360, 350 361 383 400, 383 413 426 440. Of course most of us are willing to go somewhere in the 4500-6500 rpm for peak power which gives us some overlap.

Now out side of full throttle runs, you don't need much hp to do daily driving, all engines basically make the same hp at any given road speed even if the engine can make more at full throttle at those rpms, that's in reserve.

It's just how much part throttle pep and how well it transition to full throttle power and everyone gonna be different in their compromises and sounds like AJ has zero here, but don't mean others won't sacrifice some here for full throttle action. Obviously there's people running cams in smaller low cr engines without deep gears and factory stall.

Most 318 hop ups I see people want is to add a cam and 4bbl possibly exhaust on a pretty much stock car, it might not be the strongest off the line but 318willrun and others have shown they can run.

Everyone level of wants/compromises are different.
 
How’s this for low end torque from a 318?
I bought a 1973 Dart with a 318 2-barrel and 904 from a friend for my 21 year old daughter. My friend had put in a “more than stock” cam because he wanted it to be more “dependable” for his own daughter while she used it for college. That was the only modification.
One day my daughter comes home and pulls up in front of our house while I’m outside. She says “Dad, look what I can do!” She pulls the column shifter down into first gear, stands on the gas pedal, and does a one-legged burnout down the street.
I wiped tears of happiness from my eyes.
 
Of course adding cr gears stall and displacement is gonna probably come out being a better performing street car, but those are generally the last mods people want to make if at all. Doesn't mean you still can't add performance.

Adding a mild cam 4bbl and exhaust is probably gonna add hp/tq from around 2500 to 3000 rpms and up to shift point over stock 318 even if it takes a small hit under 3000 rpms the gains at 3000 rpms and up can be fairly substantial, 160 hp, 280 tq @ 3000 rpm vs 194 hp, 340 tq @ 3000 rpm, a 194 hp is more than a stock 318 makes and is at least pull strong from 3000 rpm possibly from 2500 rpm to shift points over stock. Engine stalls what 1800-2000 rpm so you got like 500-1000 rpms the stock might have an advantage.

Based on 5-6 dyno 318 builds out there.
 
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Well lets face it the 340's attributes are that it revs to 6000 rpm. When does a stock 318 fall on its face around 4500? I had a 318 in my Dart with 3.91s (my car is a Swinger 340 the 318 is a nice direct swap while the 340 is on the engine stand) fun around town but screaming at 90 MPH . I remember the 318 ran well but the 340 is night and day even at idle and with throttle response. The 340 you just know its a runner at idle. 318s stock yes will sound good and do a 1 leg burnout but you'll lose your hard on for it if you go racing with it.
 
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I wonder what a cam recommendation would be for a car with dual exhaust but manifolds, and fairly easy to find 3.23/3.21 gears, and a 9.2:1 engine.

...that doesn't kill (and preferably helps) low end but also adds or at least doesn't hurt through the entire curve.

I think that would help a whole bunch of folks.
 
What is the consensus for heads ? I do not favor the stock 70s LA offering.

I'm using trickflows on mine, with a howards roller.. CR should be 9.6:1 ish.. i might just scrap it now to find a 340 after this thread.
 
Well lets face it the 340's attributes are that it revs to 6000 rpm. When does a stock 318 fall on its face around 4500? I had a 318 in my Dart with 3.91s (my car is a Swinger 340 the 318 is a nice direct swap while the 340 is on the engine stand) fun around town but screaming at 90 MPH . I remember the 318 ran well but the 340 is night and day even at idle and with throttle response. The 340 you just know its a runner at idle. 318s stock yes will sound good and do a 1 leg burnout but you'll lose your hard on for it if you go racing with it.
Cause a 318 comes with a 273 head and 340 come with 340 heads, good thing is heads are swappable, you seem to not be able to look past at what the factory did, when building a 318 vs 340 they pretty can take the same parts besides pistons, not saying that makes 318 better but just a capable engine if one so chooses to build it. If you can't build a bad *** 318 with all the parts available something is wrong.
 
I could not get through the 1st post by the OP, I'm a bad reader. Sorry AJ.
Just build a 318 like Ford guys treat 302's, and you'll be in the 11's in the 1/4 mile in no time
 
I wanted to put up a post for 318 newbes to show what happens to low-rpm torque with various cam sizes and compression ratios, so that we all don't have to keep going over the same old questions. And since almost everybody has, or has had, a 318, usually an 8/1 variant, with a stock 240* cam, lets start there.
First of all, forget about SCR (Static Compression Ratio). This number has little meaning other than being a tool to arrive at what we really want to know, which is the running cylinder pressure at WOT...... which we cannot actually ever know. What we are trying to do with our builds is to always keep the finished engine from self-destructing by way of detonation, when the running CYLINDER PRESSURE is too high for street gas. But, with every psi less than optimum, the engine loses power. So most of us want to keep the pressure up as high as is safely possible. If you don't, then this post is not for you.
Ok
Since we cannot actually know the running cylinder pressure,
Smarter men than me, have by empirical data, determined safe "cranking pressure numbers", to get us into the ball-park, with various chamber designs. We'll get to that.
Most of us have or have had, a stock mid to late 70s, pos low-compression 318, and we know how those don't perform...... particularly when saddled with typical 2.76 gears and very low-stall convertors. So lets look at that first.
This smog-engine had a tiny cam IIRC, 240/248/112, with an ICA (Intake Closing Angle) of 48*(depending where you center it.) At sea level, this combo should crank about 140 psi, which reflects on the very low Dcr of just 7.1 to 1; and the Wallace Calculator predicts a V/P index of 116 remember this number
All compression pressures hereafter will be standardized at sealevel
To read about VP, go here; V/P Index Calculation

For low-rpm sub 3500rpm operation, this V/P number will be very important, as it helps us understand why some engines are so sucked out as compared to others that might even be smaller. The point is that we need to plump up this number, for street performance, which, a lot of it is below 3500 rpm.
Ok so lets organize that info to make it useful. What we need is the Scr/Dcr, the Ica, the predicted pressure, and the V/P, so for this combo;
Stk smog 318; 8:1Scr/7.1Dcr/48*Ica/140 psi/VP of 116 (this is lackluster and everyone knows it)

Now, lets talk about the fuel. At a cranking cylinder pressure of 140psi, this 318 should run on the crappiest fuel imaginable. It is generally accepted that mid-grade 89 octane gas will support about 155psi CCP(Cranking Cylinder Pressure), in an open chamber design. So this 318 is already 15 psi down, and that is partly why the take-off is so lack-luster.
Since the upper limit is around 155, how do we get it there.
Well, there are three ways to change the pressure;
1) increase the SCR with a smaller total-chamber volume, or
2) Increase the Dcr with an earlier closing intake, or
3) by increasing the density of the air going into the engine, usually called, supercharging..
In the case of the factory engine, the cam is already very small, and supercharging is more money than most will want to spend, leaving us with increasing the Scr. So, we want to know how to get to 155 psi.
Going back to the Wallace Calculator, just keep upping the Scr until it spits out the desired 155psi, and I get, 8.7 as the number The New numbers are
Hi-comp 318; 8.7 Scr/7.7 Dcr/48* Ica/155psi/ VP of 130 (That's an increase of 12% !)
So your former smogger is now feeling 12% peppier, down low

But say, you had installed a 340 cam and made no compression changes. the New Ica is gonna be about 64*. and the new numbers are
Stk smog 318: 8.0 Scr/6.43 Dcr/64*Ica/122psi/ VP of 91 (thats a loss of pressure equal to 21.6%!)
So your former lackluster 318 is now feeling like a slanty, down low, unacceptable. Now you are forced to install a higher than stock stall, and hiway gears are also out.

So what do we have to do, to get the VP back up? Well 9.6 Scr will get you to 155psi, the numbers are;
hi-comp 318: 9.6 Scr/7.70 Dcr/ 64*Ica/155psi/ VP of 115 (notice that 115 and the original starting point of 116 are similar enough that at low-rpm your 340-cammed 318 is now feeling lackluster the same as it did when stock.

Now, my fellow 318 owners, I gotta tell ya that a VP of 116 is totally unacceptable with a 4-speed. And only works with an auto that has been stalled up, and for performance, forget the hiway gears. That 340 cam peaks around 5300 in a 340, with big-port heads. Put that on a factory open-chambered 318 with 2.76 gears and a 2000 stall, and you'll be timing your acceleration with a sundial; so don't do what I did.

So what's the answer?
Well firstly, we gotta figure out how to run more pressure.
So far, all my examples are with open chamber, no-squish heads, in which 155 psi is pushing the upper limit for 89gas. With closed-chambers and tight squish, and performance gears, plus 91gas, you might be able to push 165 psi. And lets get a different cam with a tighter LSA(Lobe Separation Angle), say 108, but still 340 specs. I get an Ica of 60*, the new numbers are;
very high comp 318; 9.8Scr/8.1Dcr/60*Ica/165 psi/ VP of 127 ( this is just barely on the lower edge of performance, but is as good as it gets with closed-chamber iron heads, and pump gas. If you need more bottom end than this, you are gonna have to sacrifice something.)

So what about alloy heads?
Well, with alloy heads, I myself have successfully run 195 psi without detonation and on 87E10. Others here on FABO say they have run a lil more pressure on better gas.
So let's pump up that 318 to the max with that 108*/340 cam. the new numbers are
max effort 318: 11.20 Scr/9.2Dcr/60*Ica/195psi/ VP of 150 ( now we're talking!) Lets go back to the 114* cam, with an Ica of 64*, and the number are;
max318/340 cam 11.55 Scr/9.1Dcr/64*Ica/195psi/VP of 145 ( notice the VP dropping)

So what should you do?
Answer; IDK, but I can tell you that I am addicted to a VP greater than 150, to the point of pulling out a nice cam that made 146 minimum. So, if I was ever stuck running a 318 again, I'm sorry but it will never have a 340 cam nor ever run at sub 165 psi pressures. Show me an iron head that can run 185 psi without detonation on 87E10, atta fair price, and I would run it. Until then, I'm addicted to alloy heads.
For you, when on a budget, as most of you are, you do what you can afford bearing in mind, as the VP goes down, the stall and gears have to go up, ........... at added cost. And since most of these old girls come with 2.76s and stalls between 1800 and 2200, those will have to go..... at added cost. By the time you add those up, it might have paid for new pistons and boring, and you just know a 50 yo engine needs a rebore anyway. For me, that's a given unless you just did it and like a DA stuck Low-C pistons in her....................................... lol. That's a joke, son, as Rooster Cogburn used to say. Don't do what I did
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Other
I have run a VP of up to 170 with my 367 cuber, and I can tell you, it is very addictive. It runs any gear I want it to, and even with a clutch, it's a dump-it and go deal, and will set the tires on fire almost any time. The lowest I have run is about 146, and I pulled that cam before the summer was ended, it was just too soft.

But if you can afford to bore a 318, then maybe you can afford a core 360 too, which will solve just about all your low-rpm issues. Say you want to run iron open chamber heads at 165 psi with a 360, to burn 91 gas at WOT.
With q-pad pistons say down around .012, and an 028 gasket, and say open chamber iron heads around 70cc, this comes in around 10.0Scr and you just install any cam with an Ica of 62, and the new numbers are;
360 cubes; 10.0Scr/8.1Dcr/ 62*Ica/ 166psi/ VP of 147. (see how easy that was!) Let the fun begin! No stall, no gears, no fuss, no nuttin', just slam it together and let her buck.
Well a lil fuss;
with open-chamber heads, you gotta set the Q which may require milling the pads off the pistons just a lil.
Ya know, I have run this VP with a 2bbl and still had a chitload of fun.
If ever you can afford closed chamber heads, you just mill the pads off the pistons, as required, install a new cam with a later ICA, and yur ready to go.

Here is the Wallace calculator......................
[/URL]
Couldn't you have a performance cam with stock IVC to keep stock V/P or even closes sooner for better V/P and go somewhat wilder on the other dimension and have best of both world?
 
Has anyone here built one of these so called 318 power makers with dyno slips? Ill never understand the infatuation, I mean if someone with a 318 doesn't ante up the $$$ for a 340 or 360 how are they going to dump the money into a 318? and it isn't cheap I'm dropping a set of j heads off tomorrow it may be 5 600 bucks till the machine shop is done with them. I know you experts will say "Speedmasters" but you still have to have the cash. Alot of bench racin...
 
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