318 magnum distributer gear

[mikec]

I was working on magnum 318 on engine stand , turned motor over to work on oil pan, and distributer gear popped out, I finished oil pan , set distributer gear in and distributer, aligned distributer rotor to #1 cylinder tdc at timing marks on crank, Is this right or am I possibly off on timing, motor still on stand, just checking, my Clymer book (lol) doesn't show anything about it , thanks for any input,

 

[TrailBeast]

Sounds right.

 

[AJ/FormS]

50/50
#1TDC----Compression stroke

 

[rumblefish360]

As long as the #1 cylinder is at top dead, your good to go. Worst case issue, your 180*'s out when you try and start the engine. Then you just pick up the distributor, spin the rotor half way around and drop it back in. The engine will start.

 

[mguner]

watch the rockers as you move it back and forth past TDC. If they rock on #1 point it to #6 or vice versa.....

 

[mikec]

thanks everyone for the replies,i will give it another test tonight , valve covers are loose anyway, worst case it would be 180 out, that wouldn't be the first time, rer rer rer rer fooop, put the fire out , lol thanks guys

 

[txstang84]

rer rer rer rer fooop, put the fire out

HA HA HA!!! Truth! Good luck man-post a vid if you can...we all love seeing engines come back to life

 

[Rapid Robert]

(1) pull plugs (for easier turning) (2) with 1&1/4" socket breaker bar turn crank bolt till timing slit on dampener is on TDC on the tab (3) move crank bolt back & forth a bit & see which rockers either #1's or #6's are moving (4) back crank slightly CCW till slit is at 15 BTDC (5) install/clock intergear anywhere (tho parallel with block CL is a good start) so that the dist tang can be dropped in anywhere as needed so rotor is (can be) pointing forward & slightly to pass side or rearward & slightly to dr side & if #1's were moving install tang so rotor is rearward/slightly to DR side, if #6's were moving install tang so rotor is forward & slightly to pass side then (6) turn housing so that (A) can is on pass side with room to be turned) and (B) magnet is dead even with a tooth (at this point the rotor should be under or very near under the cap terminal that is either forward/slightly to pass side or rearward/slightly to DR side. (this is rotor phasing/a seperate but important issue). (7) if the rotor is forward/pass side plug in #1 plug wire there & continue around CW 8-4-3-6-5-7-2. if the rotor is rearward/dr side then plug in #6 there & continue on around CW 5-7-2-1-8-4-3. gap at .008" with a brass gauge. You're almost ready to rock & roll. is this a new cam and or ring breakin? EDIT The can will alter rotor phasing & will shift the rotor CCW (on a SB) from its at rest position IE an 11 deg can will shift it 11 deg around the dist rim circumference

 

[mikec]

wow thats a lot of info ,i will have to read a few more times to understand it , but yes fresh 30 over motor 318 magnum new roller cam,thanks for the info

 

[Rapid Robert]

the rings will still need to be properly broken in. Go to www.mototuneusa.com & scroll down & click on "breakin secrets" you have one shot to get an excellent ring seal as opposed to an "average" job.