changed plug and plug wires, replaced points and condensor also new distributor cap when finished tried to start and burnt engine ground and fried starter! replaced ground and starter, also replaced ballist resister still no fire! replaced coil, checked ignition switch seems good and now i am out of ideas!! could use some help! is it possible timming chain has jumped teeth?:help:
318 no spark??
- Thread starter toeknee
- Start date
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Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
geeze guy , hell of a first post , sorry you are having issues. what are we working on?
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Has this engine run for you before and this problem just occured or is this a new project that your trying to start for the first time?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
"Most likely" something you did or defective parts, such as a bad condenser, or maybe the insulation (example) is deteriorated on the primary wire and has shorted to the dist. case.
What do you have for test equipment, IE multimeter, test lamp?
You should be able to completely eliminate problems in the wiring by simply BRIEFLY wiring a clip lead to coil+ and then cranking the engine while you test for spark. DO NOT leave the coil powered up this way for more than you need to test.
If no spark, Put your meter/ test lamp on coil NEG to ground, crank the engine and see if you get on/ off (bright /dim) lamp flashes, indicating your points are actually opening and closing, and actually switching the coil on/ off
You MUST have a good condenser (capacitor) to build spark energy.
Don't forget the simple stuff--- maybe when you pulled things apart you damaged the coil wire which may be old and deteriorated internally, if it's resistor (suppression) wire
What do you have for test equipment, IE multimeter, test lamp?
You should be able to completely eliminate problems in the wiring by simply BRIEFLY wiring a clip lead to coil+ and then cranking the engine while you test for spark. DO NOT leave the coil powered up this way for more than you need to test.
If no spark, Put your meter/ test lamp on coil NEG to ground, crank the engine and see if you get on/ off (bright /dim) lamp flashes, indicating your points are actually opening and closing, and actually switching the coil on/ off
You MUST have a good condenser (capacitor) to build spark energy.
Don't forget the simple stuff--- maybe when you pulled things apart you damaged the coil wire which may be old and deteriorated internally, if it's resistor (suppression) wire
pishta
I know I'm right....
put a continuity tester on the negative distributor lead and the distributor body. Do you have continuity? turn the shaft slowly and your continuity should disappear. When the points open (you can open them manually with your fingers) you should get no cont. If you do, there is an internal short in the distributor, probably where the points attach to the plate. Lay coil on motor and put a screwdriver in the tower and lay it very close to the motor ground, tap the negative post to ground and look for a spark, no spark means your coil is shot. condensor, try this:
Condensors last a long time, but a defective condenser makes a huge difference in the spark voltage.Here's a good snippet from an Aussie manual for testing the capacitor -
Remove distributor cap.
First, make sure the condensor is connected to the points properly.
Turn crankshaft until the points are fully open (any cylinder).
Disconnect the LT (green) wire from the coil.
Connect a test lamp wire to the ignition coil terminal and the other lead to the distributor wire.
Switch on the ignition. If the lamp lights, the condensor is grounded internally and must be replaced.
Now reconnect the distributor wire to the coil.
Pull the main high tension wire from the coil, and with the ignition on, turn the engine over. The spark should jump a 1/4 inch gap to earth. If it won't jump this distance, replace the condensor.
Condensors last a long time, but a defective condenser makes a huge difference in the spark voltage.Here's a good snippet from an Aussie manual for testing the capacitor -
Remove distributor cap.
First, make sure the condensor is connected to the points properly.
Turn crankshaft until the points are fully open (any cylinder).
Disconnect the LT (green) wire from the coil.
Connect a test lamp wire to the ignition coil terminal and the other lead to the distributor wire.
Switch on the ignition. If the lamp lights, the condensor is grounded internally and must be replaced.
Now reconnect the distributor wire to the coil.
Pull the main high tension wire from the coil, and with the ignition on, turn the engine over. The spark should jump a 1/4 inch gap to earth. If it won't jump this distance, replace the condensor.
Mupoo
Well-Known Member
This may be silly but - when you changed the coil, did you put the wires on the right sides?
Something to check - take the dizzy cap off, rotate the motor so the points are closed, turn the ignition on and with an insulated screw driver (or similar) us it to slowly open the points (not at the tip) and see if it has a spark shoot across - easier to see if it is in a darker area. This will at least tell you if you have power problems at the points or if the points are dirty. No spark - Ignition OFF - get a CLEAN rag and wipe the contact surfaces of the points - if your feeler guages were not 100% clean, she won't transfer spark either. Try this.
Something to check - take the dizzy cap off, rotate the motor so the points are closed, turn the ignition on and with an insulated screw driver (or similar) us it to slowly open the points (not at the tip) and see if it has a spark shoot across - easier to see if it is in a darker area. This will at least tell you if you have power problems at the points or if the points are dirty. No spark - Ignition OFF - get a CLEAN rag and wipe the contact surfaces of the points - if your feeler guages were not 100% clean, she won't transfer spark either. Try this.
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