318 replacement cams....

-
Chryslerkid

Chryslerkid

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2012
Messages
448
Reaction score
42
Location
Berkeley
Hi everyone,

I am getting tired of listening to my stuck lifter ticking away over the sound of my engine. After putting miracle marvel additives in my old 318 engine for a few months now, I am still having intermittent ticking from a stuck lifter. I think I am now ready to change my camshaft out along with lifters and pushrods. Does anyone have any recommendations for cam shafts? I am looking to keep my setup stock so that I can keep it straight forward without any other engine mods. I have a relatively stock setup other than a performer intake. Any ideas or suggestions are always welcome. Part numbers and links are greatly appreciated as well. Thanks guys!

318 engine, 727 transmission
1971 dodge dart swinger
:burnout:
 
I would AT LEAST put just a "bit" more cam in, something along the lines of a modernized grind "stock 340"
 
67Dart273 said:
I would AT LEAST put just a "bit" more cam in, something along the lines of a modernized grind "stock 340"
Click to expand...


If I do that, will I also need to put hardened seat valves as well? Or can I leave that alone? I'm not opposed to going a little bigger, but I am daily driving this vehicle and don't want to dump a lot of money into this engine until I'm ready to completely rebuild it.
 
I'm with Del on this one; I would add as a reply to your question, as long as your stem seals are good and you're not using a cam requiring high seat pressure you'd probably be just fine. I suspect there are members here who slid RV or Comp 260 high energy grinds in their 40 year old engines with no adverse effects given proper tune and serviceability. I would also recommend a new timing set if you plan on swapping cams.

EDIT: Something like what Del mentioned above, a stock spec 340 grind, or a Summit K6900 cam kit would probably be about right for a stock 318 w/4bbl intake.
 
Safe Bet,

Mopar #P4452759

.430" /.450" Lift ~ 260*/268* Duration ~ 44* Overlap ~ 110* Centerline

* Duration @ .050" = 221*/228*

Smooth Idle and Low-Speed Torque

You can still use the 318 Valve Springs, as long as you keep it under 4800 RPM's.
 
If you really want to not spend money on it, I have a stock replacement cam for a 318, with new lifters. They were put in the engine when it was rebuilt in the mid 80's, then the engine was shoved under the workbench and never put in a car. We drug it out. Removed the 318 cam/lifters and put a 340 cam in it for jake's 65.

If you want to keep it as economical on gas as a daily driver as you can, just pay shipping and it is yours. I didn't look at your location - I can bring it to carlisle, or you can come pick it up.
 
Hmmm okay lots of good things to think about guys. I'll probably go ahead and buy a timing set with the cam and lifters since I'll already be taking it off during the cam swap.

As for the cam shaft for sale...I'll pass sir. I've seen some pretty good deals online at sumittracing for cams and timing set combos. They seem pretty reasonable.

Does anyone have part numbers for cams that I could compare side by side?
 
Degree the cam. I can not emphasize this enough. There are lots of "how to's" and will allow you to get the most out of your cam. Also add the Magnum timing chain tensioner, these are cheap, work great and keep the chain tight and timing correct.
 
Stock 360 4bbl is the same cam as the 340 auto. They are a dime a dozen at a wrecking yard. New lifters and timing set, good to go and a step up from a 318 cam.
 
true...I think I paid $54 for a new in box clevite 360 cam from the local engine warehouse...new lifters are about the same.
 
The Mopar cams are nice, but pricey. If you want a very affordable budget alternative, use the Summit #6900 cam and lifter set.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The Mopar cams are nice, but pricey. If you want a very affordable budget alternative, use the Summit #6900 cam and lifter set.
Click to expand...

Triple-R,

I like the way you think.........

Summit #6900 ..... $69.97

Lift.......................... .421"/.444"
Duration.................. 278*/288*
Duration @ .050"..... 204*/214*
Lobe Separation...... 112*

RPM Range.............. 1200 to 5000

* Smooth Idle
* Good Fuel Economy
* Good Low-End Torque and Horsepower
 
I have rebuilt a 318 - bored .030 over, installed edlebrock performer dual plane intake and a comp cam .440 lift, duration 212 lobe separation 110. Original specs call for timing to be 2 1/2 ATDC. No matter where I set the timing I get backfire thru carb when opening it up and pathetic power under load. Any suggestions?
 
roadrunner41 said:
I have rebuilt a 318 - bored .030 over, installed edlebrock performer dual plane intake and a comp cam .440 lift, duration 212 lobe separation 110. Original specs call for timing to be 2 1/2 ATDC. No matter where I set the timing I get backfire thru carb when opening it up and pathetic power under load. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

You may want to start your own thread. 2.5 BTDC ignition timing? Throw the book away if that's what you are using. Set it either by starter kickback or max vacuum.


For the OP, I wouldn't run anything bigger than the old 214/224 441-465 camshaft.
 
You mention the not hav'n hardened seat concern..... Don't worry, the unleaded fuel is eat'n them up every 100 miles... unless you are using a lead additive.
 
I'm using Summit's other house brand cam in the Demon and am pleased with what it does. From the documentation that came with it, I assume it's a Crane Fireball. I'm using it on a 318 with 302 heads, Performer, and stock exhaust manifolds. It seems to pull well from anything above idle. Since the car and motor are pretty much Frankenstein jobs, I am unable to give you any before and after comparisons.

I suggest that if you pull the heads, treat them to a basic valve job, new seals, and a cleanup of the valves and seats. I did this as well as a little cleanup of the valve pockets and new valve seals. The heads were fairly true, otherwise I would have planed them to get a good seal with the head gasket and block.


Product Line: Summit Racing® Camshafts

Summit Racing Part Number:SUM-6901



Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet

Basic Operating RPM Range:1,800-5,500

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:218

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:228

Duration at 050 inch Lift:218 int./228 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration:276

Advertised Exhaust Duration:288

Advertised Duration:276 int./288 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.441 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.441 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.441 int./0.441 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees):114

Computer-Controlled Compatible:No

Valve Springs Required:Yes
 
crackedback said:
You may want to start your own thread. 2.5 BTDC ignition timing? Throw the book away if that's what you are using. Set it either by starter kickback or max vacuum.


For the OP, I wouldn't run anything bigger than the old 214/224 441-465 camshaft.
Click to expand...

thanks,will give your suggestions a try and let you know how it goes. The 1970 motors manual said 2 1/2 ATDC.
 
roadrunner41 said:
thanks,will give your suggestions a try and let you know how it goes. The 1970 motors manual said 2 1/2 ATDC.
Click to expand...

The problem with the "book" is those timing specs were subject to emssion regulation/standards and not performance. If you don't have to test your vehicle for emissions, set the timing in the 10-16 BTDC range and see if the idle quality improves. You'll need to check total timing as well. Likely the distributor will need altering to keep total timing in bounds.

Search hillbilly timing tape if you don't want to get a timing tape. Haven't run a tape in years, because you'll need one or a marked balancer to set timing.
 
2 Darts said:
Try this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LBN65Lqazg How to

http://www.carnut.com/specs/gen/dodge60.html Tune-up specs
Click to expand...

Might be a good reference to meet smog specs. To get a car to run it's best at idle, some of those 67 and prior specs are decent. None of the 68-69 are worth a crap.

Stock 318's run nicely with 10-12 BTDC. That's where they timed them before the smog spec stuff came around.

Throw any 68+ manual numbers out and time the engine where the engine likes it if you want it to run best. Then fix the distributor to hit a total number that is right.
 
Book is back on the shelf and closed. Using high vacuum and time - she runs much much better. Still have a slilght lag from start - but will work on that as time permits. Sure do appreciate the advice - thanks again to all.
 
I have a related cam question.

Since my stage two engine rebuild is on hold due to funds, and I still suffer with poor low end from too much cam in my stock bottom end 72 318 (360 heads, comp XE268H cam, DP Al Intake, 600 Eddy, Dakota exh manifolds, 904 auto & TC, back to 3.23 gears).....I am now down to just fixing the cam for now. So here are my choices:

Option I: Cheap summit cam like the 6900
Option II: Not so cheap Whiplash Hughes cam

Looking at the overlap with my current cam, I am at about 50 deg. That siginificantly hurts my effective CR, right?

With the Whiplash cam, I am at nearly zero overlap, with huge rapid lift (.485/.518 for a stock setup. I am above stock of course, so I am seeking advice then. What should I expect with either cam?

Thanks all.
Man I love this site, but wish I found it a long time ago :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top