318 stalls in Drive

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iScamp

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Hello, MOPAR Brain Trust,
My '84 318LA stalls when put in DRIVE. I"ve searched this forum and FBBO and found some useful information. But..... I'd like some more input on resolving my particular engine problem.

Here's what I got:
1984 318LA that's been 'cammed' up. It's in a 1975 D100 truck, 727 trans.
Currently idling at 850 rpm, put it in Drive and rpm drops to about 550 and most times the engine will stall if I don't pad the gas a little.
Stock flat top pistons and std. bore.
resurfaced heads, unknown amount
Timing 18 deg. BTDC static
Camshaft purpleshaft P/N: 4120231
I/E duration @.050 241
Advertised @ 284
I/E lift .484 (stock rocker arms)
LSA 108 (originally timed at "0", advanced cam 4 deg. Cloyes chain) This helped some.
Overlap 68
Stock 1975 Converter (i think thats a 1700 rpm stall)
Cast iron exhaust, duals.

Here's the kicker, I know you guys are going to 'facepalm'. It originally had a Weiand Action Plus 8007 intake. The throttle pressure (KD) linkage would not match properly. I installed the cast iron 2 bbl intake and Carter BBD 2 bbl carb with the stock KD linkage.
My reasoning being that the BBD is sufficient in size as the primaries as a small 4 bbl. Just wouldn't have much top end power, which is fine.


I bought the truck as a project. I want to sell it but, it has to have decent street manners. Not a lot of power.
P.S. I didn't build the engine. Never ran it with the 4 bbl intake.

I really don't want to replace the camshaft. But, bolting on a 4bbl and finding a stock iron manifold is a possibility. But, would that help my idling problem?
 
I'm still trying to get my hand out of my face! LOL
Anyways it sounds like a vacuum leak.
You changed a manifold for a throttle linkage problem?
 
Engine came without a carburetor, just the Weiand (high rise) intake. Did not want to modify/fabricate the KD linkage. Didn't want to go Lokar cable, either. Yes, I"m stubborn.
Simplest thing (for me) would be go with what I know to work. I don't usually deal with performance stuff. Had a few all stock Mopars with 2bbl carbs and they have performed well for a long time.
 
Check for a vacuum leak maybe with I can carb cleaner or something just spraying around and listen for the motor to drop RPMs. Clogged fuel filter dirty carburetor, and it can be a few other things that are pretty simple.
I mean I'm not one to buy linkage brackets and stuff like that if at all possible. I'm sorry I'm just one of those kind of people who looks at a linkage bracket like that and can't help but thing I can't duplicate its simplicity.
 
&$#@+$&!! Damn double post! I always wonder how it happened to other people...
 
I did spray carb. cleaner looking for leaks. Carb. has a fresh kit. New filter.
Vacuum at idle was 6". Haven't checked it since I changed camshaft timing.
Yes, definitely hoping for a simple solution. I"m out of money, time, and patience.
 
iScamp said:
I did spray carb. cleaner looking for leaks. Carb. has a fresh kit. New filter.
Vacuum at idle was 6". Haven't checked it since I changed camshaft timing.
Yes, definitely hoping for a simple solution. I"m out of money, time, and patience.
Click to expand...
Well money shouldn't be a big concern cuz likely it's not an expensive fix. Time we all want more! And as far as patients you need to go stock back up on those for a minute is probably the most important part here before you cost yourself more of the first two. My-2....
 
Adjust the idle to 1000, when it goes to drive it’ll be 800. Perfect. Problem solved

Jane
 
WAY to big of a cam for a stock low compression 318, and stock truck converter. Classic miss-match build. I'd replace cam with something like a 360 stock replacement cam, it will run a million times better.
 
bbrroowwnn said:
vacuum leak
Click to expand...

j par said:
Well money shouldn't be a big concern cuz likely it's not an expensive fix. Time we all want more! And as far as patients you need to go stock back up on those for a minute is probably the most important part here before you cost yourself more of the first two. My-2....
Click to expand...
Let's start with the vacuum leak. That's the simplest. Could there be a leak on the underside of the intake, in the lifter valley? How could I check for that?

I'll agree patience is paramount to success. Knowledge helps, too.
 
replicaracer43 said:
WAY to big of a cam for a stock low compression 318, and stock truck converter. Classic miss-match build. I'd replace cam with something like a 360 stock replacement cam, it will run a million times better.
Click to expand...
I agree that it would run like it should with a 360 cam. But, I would not feel comfortable just putting a cam in with the old bearings. So that would require an engine pull. Time and money I'm not willing to commit, yet.
 
iScamp said:
Let's start with the vacuum leak. That's the simplest. Could there be a leak on the underside of the intake, in the lifter valley? How could I check for that?

I'll agree patience is paramount to success. Knowledge helps, too.
Click to expand...
My guess would be that if you had a vacuum leak coming from around the intake Port between the head and the manifold that it would also be drawing some sort of oil or something from under the lifter Valley and making your plug all oily? And it would likely happen in just one area and would be falling out plugs I think? Does that make sense?
 
j par said:
My guess would be that if you had a vacuum leak coming from around the intake Port between the head and the manifold that it would also be drawing some sort of oil or something from under the lifter Valley and making your plug all oily? And it would likely happen in just one area and would be falling out plugs I think? Does that make sense?
Click to expand...

Yes, makes sense. I haven't pulled spark plugs recently. Will do that soon, won't have time to look at the engine until Thursday.
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
Adjust the idle to 1000, when it goes to drive it’ll be 800. Perfect. Problem solved

Jane
Click to expand...
That would solve the symptom but, give it bad street manners in my opinion. I did crank up the idle as an experiment. When put into drive around 950-1000 rpm , there is a loud thump noise, which can't be good for the trans. or diff. When put in Reverse, the thunk is much worse. I'm concerned the reverse band strut will break. The strut was broken when I got the truck. I think the previous owner put it in Reverse while the carb. was on the fast idle cam.
My brother has a car with an almost identical cam in his 340 (8.5:1 compression). Idles just fine. His 340 has a Carter AFB. I wonder what the flow capacity of the front 2 barrels of the AFB are compared to the BBD?
 
iScamp said:
That would solve the symptom but, give it bad street manners in my opinion. I did crank up the idle as an experiment. When put into drive around 950-1000 rpm , there is a loud thump noise, which can't be good for the trans. or diff. When put in Reverse, the thunk is much worse. I'm concerned the reverse band strut will break. The strut was broken when I got the truck. I think the previous owner put it in Reverse while the carb. was on the fast idle cam.
My brother has a car with an almost identical cam in his 340 (8.5:1 compression). Idles just fine. His 340 has a Carter AFB. I wonder what the flow capacity of the front 2 barrels of the AFB are compared to the BBD?
Click to expand...
The problem with that Cam and everything is that you have it in a big old truck. If it was in the car it would be a little Pepe or a little more fun but that truck needs low torque to get it moving. That's why the cam suggestion more so than anything else I believe. It would actually work with what you have.
 
That's true. But, idle with my foot on the brake in Drive is my only concern at this point. (waiting at stoplight). It actually does o.k. driving and accelerating since I advanced the cam timing.
 
iScamp said:
That's true. But, idle with my foot on the brake in Drive is my only concern at this point. (waiting at stoplight). It actually does o.k. driving and accelerating since I advanced the cam timing.
Click to expand...
My first duster had somewhat of a similar mismatch combination and definitely what people are saying about the torque converter that's just too much to hold at a light with that Cam. And it doesn't idle well. I do remember one specific thing that you may try. I remember anytime I put anything less than super unleaded in it it would run like total crap and not idle and actually run as if it was on six or four cylinders. The driving around a little bit and get good gas in it and finally it would start running good.
 
Also bad gas can do all kinds of stuff and don't think that because you bought it at some high price gas station it's good gas or that you bought a good grade of gas that it was good gas bad gas can be bad gas. Saying gas so many times gives me...
 
j par said:
My first duster had somewhat of a similar mismatch combination and definitely what people are saying about the torque converter that's just too much to hold at a light with that Cam. And it doesn't idle well. I do remember one specific thing that you may try. I remember anytime I put anything less than super unleaded in it it would run like total crap and not idle and actually run as if it was on six or four cylinders. The driving around a little bit and get good gas in it and finally it would start running good.
Click to expand...

Good point about the gas. It's non-ethanol, 89 Octane. The station is frequented by boaters and landscapers, so I assume it's fresh gas.
You did remind me of something. I'm fairly certain the converter in the 340 car is 2400 rpm stall.

Incidentally, I understand that automobiles and such are a system. Alter one component, it affects another, and so on. Certainly got a mismatch of system components, as pointed out earlier.

Replacing the converter is obviously an engine pull.
Replacing the cam is an engine pull.
I think I"ll pull the spark plugs.

Anyway, thanks guys for all the input. I'm on the East coast and it's about my bedtime. See ya'.
 
iScamp said:
Good point about the gas. It's non-ethanol, 89 Octane. The station is frequented by boaters and landscapers, so I assume it's fresh gas.
You did remind me of something. I'm fairly certain the converter in the 340 car is 2400 rpm stall.

Incidentally, I understand that automobiles and such are a system. Alter one component, it affects another, and so on. Certainly got a mismatch of system components, as pointed out earlier.

Replacing the converter is obviously an engine pull.
Replacing the cam is an engine pull.
I think I"ll pull the spark plugs.

Anyway, thanks guys for all the input. I'm on the East coast and it's about my bedtime. See ya'.
Click to expand...
Yeah it's West Coast and we're still washing Mash here. And just so you know the cam is a manifold water pump and timing chain cover pull not a motor pull. You may have to pull some of the grill apart to get the cam to slide all the way out. And the converter is a transmission pull both of which should be take apart one day and put together the next. Unbolt and bolt back in. Not rocket science just a lot of dirt and Grease if you don't have your stuff clean.
Good night and I'll check out your response when I wake up in the morning LOL
 
Hello, MOPAR Brain Trust,
My '84 318LA stalls when put in DRIVE. I"ve searched this forum and FBBO and found some useful information. But..... I'd like some more input on resolving my particular engine problem.

Here's what I got:
1984 318LA that's been 'cammed' up. It's in a 1975 D100 truck, 727 trans.
Currently idling at 850 rpm, put it in Drive and rpm drops to about 550 and most times the engine will stall if I don't pad the gas a little.
Stock flat top pistons and std. bore.
resurfaced heads, unknown amount
Timing 18 deg. BTDC static
Camshaft purpleshaft P/N: 4120231
I/E duration @.050 241
Advertised @ 284
I/E lift .484 (stock rocker arms)
LSA 108 (originally timed at "0", advanced cam 4 deg. Cloyes chain) This helped some.
Overlap 68
Stock 1975 Converter (i think thats a 1700 rpm stall)
Cast iron exhaust, duals.

Here's the kicker, I know you guys are going to 'facepalm'. It originally had a Weiand Action Plus 8007 intake. The throttle pressure (KD) linkage would not match properly. I installed the cast iron 2 bbl intake and Carter BBD 2 bbl carb with the stock KD linkage.
My reasoning being that the BBD is sufficient in size as the primaries as a small 4 bbl. Just wouldn't have much top end power, which is fine.
Click to expand...

How quick does the mechanical advance in the distributor come in? If it's already advancing @ 850 rpm, then when it goes into gear, as the rpm drops back to 550, timing drops back as well because the convertor is too low stall speed, and added together with a way-to-big cam for the convertor, causes the engine to stall. Simple huh?
 
65Val said:
How quick does the mechanical advance in the distributor come in? If it's already advancing @ 850 rpm, then when it goes into gear, as the rpm drops back to 550, timing drops back as well because the convertor is too low stall speed, and added together with a way-to-big cam for the convertor, causes the engine to stall. Simple huh?
Click to expand...
Sounds good to me.
 
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