318 stroker using Scat crank

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didn't RAMM want those pistons but couldn't find them?
...anybody know where they can be sourced?
 
didn't RAMM want those pistons but couldn't find them? ...anybody know where they can be sourced?

That part, I don't recall, but the low height pistons are available from UEM (silvolite) and I've seen them on eBay from time to time (badger I wanna say)...I think Davebonds has a set he elected not to use...maybe hit him up see if he wants to part with them?
 
1.678 compression pistons are also around and they would be just under zero deck.
...what might be the max. lift and duration (cam) you could use with regular 1.88, 72 cc J heads,which should give compression in the lo 9's?
 
If you're really concerned about it, you probably should have them fly cut...I'd be a little leery of running anything with more than about .480" lift and 270*...but that's just me.
 
The old books used to say .520 lift was max. Advertised of course so there's a little fudge factor built in for the pushrod angle mess. But that was long before the faster rates of lift. I think I'd limit it to what you see for the XE268 type stuff. The Lunati Voo Doo 268s might be too fast for it. Basically - stay conservative and you should be fine. Push the l;imits and you'll want to mock things up and measure to be sure.
 
As long as you understand you're going to spend more to get this together and running than a 360, that's cool. The combo you have will leave the piston sticking out above deck by .250" or so... You need to get a shorter 318 piston, or a custom piston (which would be my advice). Sure you don't want to just build a 4" stroke or get a 360?
Numbers match is the clincher. Keep the 318 crank with grease on it to prevent rust.
There is more to life than up front cost or brute HP.
A collector car with the numbers matching drivetrain is worth extra money especially if parts like the teplaced crank are kept for the sale that may be down the road.
 
If you're really concerned about it, you probably should have them fly cut...I'd be a little leery of running anything with more than about .480" lift and 270*...but that's just me.
Depending on head flow at lift values, I like valve lifts in the 0.500" to 0.530" range. A cam with 0.480" valve lift and then using higher ratio rockers gets the valves off the seat quicker, which is a huge benefit. Care must be paid to pressure wave tuning to maximise the benefits.
 
I have used that scat crank in a 340 build, but would not do it again because of the lighter counterweights dictated my piston choices. Forged pistons would have required heavy metal to balance.
This may be a moot point with the smaller 318 stock cast type pistons
 
Corrections are in order here:


New 360 block, plus oil pan, plus crank, plus pistons,
will cost more than,
crank & pistons. Even with mod cost to pistons, which is basically free for me.

As for calculations:

Stock 318:
9.64" block - 6.123" rod - 3.31"/2 stroke - 1.822" piston = 0.040" in the bore

Stroker 318:
9.64" block - 6.123" rod - 3.58"/2 stroke - 1.658" piston = 0.069" in the bore

or is my calculator broken????
Mopar block deck height is 9.600"
 
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