340 and A833 install questions

[J.B.]

I know when dropping in the motor and trans from the top of the car i need the TTI headers off and sitting in the bottom of the engine bay, but I have a few more drop in questions.

1. Does clutch fork get in the way of anything or it clears fine when dropping in? Seeing how you have to see how to connect the bearing to clutch fork i cant see how its possible to not pre install that out of the car.

2. Does the Z-bar install after motor and trans are installed and lowered in car?

3. Does 4 speed hurst shifter mechanism getting installed before or after drop in?

4. I attached a picture of where the throwout bearing slides onto. Does this require a high temp red grease or a multipurpose no2 grease?

 

[halfafish]

It would get you better answers if we knew what vehicle you're talking about. Big difference stabbing this in a truck versus an early A. If it was me I'd leave #1-3 off till it was in the vehicle. That's lots less stuff to get hung up on everything else.

I'll leave #4 to others.

 

[junkyardhero]

I know when dropping in the motor and trans from the top of the car i need the TTI headers off and sitting in the bottom of the engine bay, but I have a few more drop in questions.

1. Does clutch fork get in the way of anything or it clears fine when dropping in? Seeing how you have to see how to connect the bearing to clutch fork i cant see how its possible to not pre install that out of the car.

i leave the clutch fork out. you can easily install it thru the inspection cover and side of the bell where it enters. also, it would probably hang on everything on the way in.

2. Does the Z-bar install after motor and trans are installed and lowered in car?

after

3. Does 4 speed hurst shifter mechanism getting installed before or after drop in?

if you're talking about the shifter box, you can put it on before. i personally don't like to, i don't want anything to hang up on the tunnel or floor when installing.

4. I attached a picture of where the throwout bearing slides onto. Does this require a high temp red grease or a multipurpose no2 grease?

if you ask 4 people this question you'll get 6.5 different answers. i've used the red hi-temp and just generic disc brake bearing grease and everything in between. dealer's choice. just make sure it's EP and heat rated. if you're talking generic white lith, then use something else.

 

[AJ/FormS]

So it looks like you're thinking of installing the engine with the clutch/BH/trans all pre-installed;
you have an engine tilter then? With a generous clearance under the car to receive the tailhouse? It's gonna be real tight over the core-support; if it's your first time, and the paint is fresh, I recommend, to remove the harmonic balancer. And you better leave the Distributor-install for afterwards as well.
That engine have a new cam in it? If yes, what are your plans for priming the oilpump.

I install from the top all the time but, engine only; then trans from the bottom.

 

[cudamark]

I use moly wheel bearing grease on the bearing retainer. I also recommend putting the drivetrain in from the bottom along with the K-member and steering gear. Install the Z-bar afterward, but, everything else can be installed out of the car with no problem installing it that way. If the K-member is staying place and you're set on dropping in from the top with a cherry picker, it helps to have a floor jack to work the transmission tail shaft around and get things lined up. I agree with AJ, I'd install the engine first, and then to trans from the bottom. Bolt them together first out of the car to make sure they mate without a problem. Then separate and install them separately. The only fly I see in that ointment is the headers. Not sure how much they would be in the way by either top or bottom install options.

 

[J.B.]

I use moly wheel bearing grease on the bearing retainer. I also recommend putting the drivetrain in from the bottom along with the K-member and steering gear. Install the Z-bar afterward, but, everything else can be installed out of the car with no problem installing it that way. If the K-member is staying place and you're set on dropping in from the top with a cherry picker, it helps to have a floor jack to work the transmission tail shaft around and get things lined up. I agree with AJ, I'd install the engine first, and then to trans from the bottom. Bolt them together first out of the car to make sure they mate without a problem. Then separate and install them separately. The only fly I see in that ointment is the headers. Not sure how much they would be in the way by either top or bottom install options.

How are you tightening the bellhousing to motor bolts if the tunnel area is blocking bolts i dont get that?

 

[Scody21]

Are you doing this on the ground or on a lift? If on a lift, I put the bellhousing / scatter sheild on then install motor and install the trans from the bottom. If on the ground, need to pull the distro to get enough angle and height with the cherry picker to clear the rad support and get the trans pointed down in the tunnel and then start angling back up and the motor slides in and back. Would leave the shifter bock off if going in from the top.

 

[J.B.]

Are you doing this on the ground or on a lift? If on a lift, I put the bellhousing / scatter sheild on then install motor and install the trans from the bottom. If on the ground, need to pull the distro to get enough angle and height with the cherry picker to clear the rad support and get the trans pointed down in the tunnel and then start angling back up and the motor slides in and back. Would leave the shifter bock off if going in from the top.

Going in from the top

 

[J.B.]

Going in from the top

From ground dont have lift so going to do it the old fashion way with the motor and trans married

 

[junkyardhero]

How are you tightening the bellhousing to motor bolts if the tunnel area is blocking bolts i dont get that?

there's room. it's tight, but there's room.

some combination of wrenches, short sockets, long sockets, wobble sockets and extensions from behind and up next to the trans.

 

[mygasser]

How are you tightening the bellhousing to motor bolts if the tunnel area is blocking bolts i dont get that?

all the bellhousing to motor bolts are accessible in the car (very tight with a big block but even then still doable) so putting the bellhousing then trans in after the motor is easiest as already said.

 

[J.B.]

there's room. it's tight, but there's room.

some combination of wrenches, short sockets, long sockets, wobble sockets and extensions from behind and up next to the trans.

Yeahhhhh i think i will just do the old school marry the motor and trans and drop from the top

 

[J.B.]

all the bellhousing to motor bolts are accessible in the car (very tight with a big block but even then still doable) so putting the bellhousing then trans in after the motor is easiest as already said.

You are hoping for a clean push in and not buggering up pilot bushing with limited working space i feel

 

[junkyardhero]

Yeahhhhh i think i will just do the old school marry the motor and trans and drop from the top

You are hoping for a clean push in and not buggering up pilot bushing with limited working space i feel

i love how this went from: do i need to pull the clutch fork and when do i install the z-bar? to i'm just gonna go with x instead of the advice i came seeking. but i digress...

with the headers in place it's going to be extra tricky. also, i don't know what your situation is but you're going to need a cherry picker that gets up there a good ways, like WAY more than you think it needs to. and you'll need a friend, possibly two, to manage the wily business of the trans tailshaft-- getting it over the nose/rad and keeping it up off the floor and directing the motor into place.

on getting the trans into the bell and engaging the pilot, it's not like you're dropping a quarter in a shot glass or some bar trick. a floor jack, steady hands and using common sense: ie not forcing anything, or slamming it together, is all it takes.

if you're really that concerned about it, just drop the K and attach the motor and trans assembly and install it as a complete unit from the underside. you can even put the headers on in that case. you'll still need to put the Z on after everything is in place though.

 

[J.B.]

i love how this went from: do i need to pull the clutch fork and when do i install the z-bar? to i'm just gonna go with x instead of the advice i came seeking. but i digress...

with the headers in place it's going to be extra tricky. also, i don't know what your situation is but you're going to need a cherry picker that gets up there a good ways, like WAY more than you think it needs to. and you'll need a friend, possibly two, to manage the wily business of the trans tailshaft-- getting it over the nose/rad and keeping it up off the floor and directing the motor into place.

on getting the trans into the bell and engaging the pilot, it's not like you're dropping a quarter in a shot glass or some bar trick. a floor jack, steady hands and using common sense: ie not forcing anything, or slamming it together, is all it takes.

if you're really that concerned about it, just drop the K and attach the motor and trans assembly and install it as a complete unit from the underside. you can even put the headers on in that case. you'll still need to put the Z on after everything is in place though.

I am seeking advise but im not removing 20 items from the front to drop k member, i understand thats how they did it at the factory but i have the car together i think i will get a transmission jack and raise it into position and install from bottom as an alternative since guys say thats the way to go if im gonna drop in from top

 

[Scody21]

If you don’t have one of these, you should…

3/4 ton Capacity Load Leveler

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Here’s one of a tank motor with a T56 that was tighter than a ticks *** coming out of a 65 jag, which has torsion bars BTW…

 

[junkyardhero]

i primarily work by myself and the way that i've always done it with 67+ cars is to drop in the motor with the flywheel/clutch and bell, then pop the trans in from underneath with a jack or blocks of wood. on 64~66 cars there are times when i've had to drop in just the motor and attach the flywheel, clutch, bell after the fact.

each situation is unique to the job. sometimes i'll do a small block with an automatic together from the top. but for me, on what i assume is a 70~72 dart with headers, the tact i would take is what most others have outlined. there's enough room there to get the bell and trans together or just do one and then the other. yes it's tight, yes it's fiddly, yes it's uncomfortable-- but it's doable.

oh, and don't forget to remove the distributor, or at least the cap. one less thing to infuriate you when it bonks the firewall and cracks or totally scratches the paint.

 

[Daves69]

From the top, assembled, lifting the rear of the car can help....

Distributor out, hole plugged.

Plug the trans tail.

A deep pan may cause fit issues between the K member and firewall / pan and bell... it's real tight with a big block.

I don't have issues with the fork installed. Wire it so it don't flop around.

Install Z and shifter when your engine is lined up properly.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I’m not big on taking the hood off to R&R an engine, especially if you are a one man band. It’s much easier to put the clutch and bell on, leave the hood on, stick the engine and the put the box in.

If you already have the hood off then you might as well stick it in one piece.

I haven’t taken a hood off in years because I usually work by myself.

 

[AJ/FormS]

For me, taking the hood off is a piece of cake, and I would NOT try to drop the engine in with the hood still installed; criminy it's just four bolts! What to do with it after I get it off by myself, well, that has to be planned out beforehand, lol.
Removing the K is only slightly more detailed.
My A833 has an alloy case so it practically floats into place. I use line-up studs so I don't have to hang the trans on the clutch. Just make sure the trans is in fourth gear, and that you can turn the output shaft to line the input splines up. For that, I have a spare output yoke. Oh yeah, before you install the RH pin, make sure you can get it out after the trans is up. One time I used a too-long pin and it was captured, lol, PITA that was, cuz at that time the case was still iron ..............

After the engine is secured on the mounts, I have a 2x2 stick I straddle the T-bars with and I shim up to the oilpan or whatever is convenient, so I can remove the Chain-hoist (I don't have a cherry-picker). Then in goes the 4-speed, then I use a jack to get the tail roughly into position. Then I dangle the headers on the two end studs, then put the trans mount in place. After that the rest is plug and play.
I leave the steering alone, except sometimes I undo the Idler arm for wiggle room with my Roadrace oilpan. Since I have a pitman-arm puller, sometimes I pull that too.
I do it from the top because, I can roll the car back and forth to help get the engine in. Yeah I know a picker has wheels, but I don't have one, and if I did, the cement floor is not always pristine. Besides that handicap, the car just rolls oh-so-much easier, especially if I am up on the fenders pushing and pulling.

A long time ago, I built a real nice cradle and installed the engine/trans from the bottom. Once was enough for me.

 

[mygasser]

You are hoping for a clean push in and not buggering up pilot bushing with limited working space i feel

if you mocked it all up on the floor first there's no reason for anything but a clean push in. don't forget the motor once on it's mounts will be down at the rear (oil pan will sit on the steering centre link) unless supported so clearance in the tunnel is plentiful.
neil.

 

[J.B.]

So i can install this as is in photo from the bottom correct? I will drop in motor with clutch disc and preasure plate installed from the top and the trans with throwout bearing, fork, and bellhousing from the bottom ?

 

[Newbomb Turk]

So i can install this as is in photo from the bottom correct? I will drop in motor with clutch disc and preasure plate installed from the top and the trans with throwout bearing, fork, and bellhousing from the bottom ?

View attachment 1716175295

I mount the bell to the block if I’m doing it that way. It’s less bulky just sticking the gearbox in as opposed to trying to get the bell all lined up.

 

[Uncle Bob]

So i can install this as is in photo from the bottom correct? I will drop in motor with clutch disc and preasure plate installed from the top and the trans with throwout bearing, fork, and bellhousing from the bottom ?

View attachment 1716175295

Sure you can but no you shouldn't. Install the bell, then the transmission.

If you're seriously thinking of putting the clutch and PP on before installing the motor, go ahead and put the bellhousing on too.

That's a clean setup there congrats.

 

[junkyardhero]

So i can install this as is in photo from the bottom correct? I will drop in motor with clutch disc and preasure plate installed from the top and the trans with throwout bearing, fork, and bellhousing from the bottom ?

you could but it'd be a right pig to get lined up and you'd be working against yourself and awkward angles.

put the bell on the motor and drop it in, and then stab the trans in from the bottom. or drop the motor in and then put the bell on from the bottom and stab in the trans.