340 Build help please.

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Nkaiser81

71TwistedK
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I'm looking to budget build my 340. It's out of my 71 Duster but is a 73 block. It has J heads. Looking to get close to 400 hp without having to throw a ton of many into it. Looking for help and suggestions what others built theirs like. Thanks
 
Mine's probably right around there the heads have oversized valves, but they're hogged out. It's a virgin bore but they're 10 and a half to one Pistons. I used the 484 purple shaft cam, a holley strip Dom, (its ported and matched to heads)and a 750 vac, patriot headers, good Springs, locks, and retainers on the valves and head, a large capacity pan and HV oil pump, feeding fully grooved Mains, Here's the Clincher the heads I'd had laying around for a long time when I bought the rest of them parts it was around 2010 things have gone up so much by now it's crazy.... maybe you can find some stuff at a swap meet or something
 
If you can do some home port clean up on the heads and intake, that would pay big dividends.
 
What is your intended use for the car? Any particular goals other than 400hp?
 
Edit! My bad… piston recommendations below.
Thanks @mgoblue9798
340 pistons and 360 pistons aren’t the same!
But the pistons, in at a zero deck height, .038 X 4.1 head gasket, RPM AG intake, 750 cfm carb, 1-3/4 headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe. A cam with a LSA of 108, 236*’s at 050 or slightly greater with home ported heads or Edelbrock heads. Add a 1.6 rocker if lift is under .520.
 
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Keith Black piston, KB-107 or Federal Mougal C116HP’s, both are flat top hyper pistons, in at a zero deck height, .038 X 4.1 head gasket, RPM AG intake, 750 cfm carb, 1-3/4 headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe. A cam with a LSA of 108, 236*’s at 050 or slightly greater with home ported heads or Edelbrock heads. Add a 1.6 rocker if lift is under .520.
Sounds like the Hot ticket!
 
Keith Black piston, KB-107 or Federal Mougal C116HP’s, both are flat top hyper pistons, in at a zero deck height, .038 X 4.1 head gasket, RPM AG intake, 750 cfm carb, 1-3/4 headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe. A cam with a LSA of 108, 236*’s at 050 or slightly greater with home ported heads or Edelbrock heads. Add a 1.6 rocker if lift is under .520.

I guess you missed the 340 part. Gonna need different pistons but all the rest of the combo would make for a fun ride.
 
What is your intended use for the car? Any particular goals other than 400hp?


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Moestly driver. Have 440 in my garage t I thoughout throwing in. t































































What is your intended use for the car? Any particular goals other than 400hp?
 
Driver. I have a 440 in garage thought about dropping in. But if I can get the same hp in a 340. Then I don't have to wedge the 440 in there or cut into the fender walls.
 
I'm looking to budget build my 340. It's out of my 71 Duster but is a 73 block. It has J heads. Looking to get close to 400 hp without having to throw a ton of many into it. Looking for help and suggestions what others built theirs like. Thanks
Hp basically comes down to heads, a set of stock 1.88 J can get 400+ hp with enough cam and cr, probably way more than you want to run. So you either can build with stock heads and run cam, cr etc.. You'll be happy with and it makes what it makes probably 350-380 hp or modify or aftermarket heads that make 400 hp with desired level of cam, cr.
 
Build a stock 68-71 short block. Add some ported and checked out Speedmaster heads. Lunati's version of the 268 cam, Air gap intake, 750 DP and Dougs headers.
 
Well. "BUDGET" as in not dumping thousands into it instead of tossing a 440 in it.
 
OP; don't get mad at me, but since you haven't told us why you want 400hp yet, I'm assuming it's NOT to go racing, so that sorta leaves it being a streeter. OOPs I missed it post 9 says "driver"

If that's true then it seems like most guys are quoting the 400hp number, which in a 340 may not come until pushing 6000 rpm. But what they really want is a smoking hot bottom end starting right off idle, or at least by the stall-rpm. Midrange is gonna be similar no matter how hot the street engine gets to be.
Now not to belabor the point, but 6000 rpm with 3.23s and a regular Torqueflite is about 61 mph, if not spinning. But if you are running street tires, they will be spinning at WOT for the entire duration, if the engine is assembled and tuned right. In fact, even 350 or 300 will do that. Maybe even less. So why spend a boatload of cash to get a 400hp@6000 rpm engine, versus a 350 at 5500, or a 300 at 5000..... all of which can smoke street tires, on the street, given a street rear gear and a streetable Convertor.?
400 hp is asking for 3.73s minimum and a stall as high as 3600
350 is around 3.55s and 3200
300 is around 3.23s and 2800
250 is whatever is already in the car, saving you another boatload of cash.
Point being;
what makes 400hp the magic number for you? and
what rear gear/trans/convertor are you thinking if running.
 
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400hp in a street car isn’t even fun anymore for me.
 
OP; don't get mad at me, but since you haven't told us why you want 400hp yet, I'm assuming it's NOT to go racing, so that sorta leaves it being a streeter. OOPs I missed it post 9 says "driver"

If that's true then it seems like most guys are quoting the 400hp number, which in a 340 may not come until pushing 6000 rpm. But what they really want is a smoking hot bottom end starting right off idle, or at least by the stall-rpm. Midrange is gonna be similar no matter how hot the street engine gets to be.
Now not to belabor the point, but 6000 rpm with 3.23s and a regular Torqueflite is about 61 mph, if not spinning. But if you are running street tires, they will be spinning at WOT for the entire duration, if the engine is assembled and tuned right. In fact, even 350 or 300 will do that. Maybe even less. So why spend a boatload of cash to get a 400hp@6000 rpm engine, versus a 350 at 5500, or a 300 at 5000..... all of which can smoke street tires, on the street, given a street rear gear and a streetable Convertor.?
400 hp is asking for 3.73s minimum and a stall as high as 3600
350 is around 3.55s and 3200
300 is around 3.23s and 2800
250 is whatever is already in the car, saving you another boatload of cash.
Point being;
what makes 400hp the magic number for you? and
what rear gear/trans/convertor are you thinking if running.
On my car I'm detuning it with a smaller cam and china air gap, Richard Holdener dyno similar combo made 350 hp, right now it's a 380 hp crate 5.9l dyno ones shown to make 400-410hp, but I'm looking more for a cruiser daily driver type car, engine as is, is soft under 2500 rpm and got to drive in 2nd under 40 mph in town driving. I'd rather lose the 50+hp on top that I'll rarely use anyway.
 
Your ears must have still been ringing from the flow bench work. :)
I have an EXCELLENT set of head/ear gear. Sound canceling tech with a dial control to cut down on noise or let more sound in.
400hp in a street car isn’t even fun anymore for me.
Depends on how much torque is available. ;)
 
Come on now. That's like saying B cups aren't any fun anymore. Got to know a lot more about the rest of the package before being able to make that call.
Ok you’re so right about that. We have a 250hp Miata road course car and it’s a hoot to drive. I should have said 3000lb 400hp car.
 
I saw your 800ftlbs-blew-it-up video. I see where yur coming from.
Since I've never tried it, I can't miss it, and I'm real happy with about half of that.
Not my video, but my daily driver does make 705hp to the tires and even that gets boring after a while. The answer is always more boost.
 
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