360 balanceing

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Joseph24251_200

The Mopar Kid
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Ok I've always heard that a 360 needs to be balanced even if ur just putting in new pistions and rings. So what do i need to do to get my 360 balanced. What exactly does the machine shop need to balance my assembly. Also how many of the member have actually did this and how many decided to skip the balanceing act even thou they're running new pistons. Also if it's not balanced does it matter if the rods are put back in to the same bore. Thing is, if this is necessary what do i need to run to the machine shop with, block, rods, pistons, crank, etc..... Thanks.
 
Whoa Joe. Just vist the machinest and have a talk. Or call if there far. The machinest will ask you one or two questions. One being, "Is this 360 going to be a internal or external job, (2) manual or auto trans?"

I did a .030 over 318 and 360 many years ago. These builds were super simple piston only. This caused the engine to shake. It was even hard to get a screwdriver into the carb slot to tune. Get the picture?

Now drive down the road with the ever increaseing shake.

The new pistons added weight throws everything off. Nothing else that you do shy of rebalancing will fix the problem. Not re-balancing will damage parts and wear out the bearings faster.

So just call'em up or vist them and have a short talk.
 
When I did my 360 I had KB psitons, much lighter than stock, and Eagle rods also lighter than stock. The machine shope balanced it and needed to remove approx. 200 grams from each end of the crank (almost a pound). When they balance your engine they will need the pistons and rods to figure the bob weight to put on the throws. You will get a better balance if you provide the harmonic balancer and flywheel or flex plate/torque convertor you plan to use verse them using standard weights.
 
when i did mine i used the kb pistons and 273 rods (lighter) i was able to have weight removed in the front and a slug of mallory metal put in the back to internaly balance it. balance is important and helps your engine run smoothly and last much longer.
 
You will not regret balancing the rotating assembly. It is money well spent and the engine will last longer.
 
Ok so the block it self is not needed by the machine shop to balance the rotating assembly. Just Rods, pistons, crank, flexplate, torque converter, and balancer. Also who much does this usually run.
 
Joseph24251_200 said:
Ok so the block it self is not needed by the machine shop to balance the rotating assembly. Just Rods, pistons, crank, flexplate, torque converter, and balancer. Also who much does this usually run.


For a rebore and hone on the block and the balance it was $350.00

All pistons and rods were balanced separate and also as an assembly.

Rotating mass was balanced with damper and converter at 500 r.p.m.
 
A note or two...If you replace pistons with oversize stock replacements, the new pistons are heavier. That is called "underbalanced" and can lead to all kinds of issues. Many guys dont balance. I suppose if all 8 are the smae extra weight, it will limitm the amount of out of balance..but the pistons are not teh main offsetting force. The crank counterweights (and harmonic dampener and torque convertor weights on cast cranks) are what offsets the pistons and small ends of the rods. It is less of a probelm if the crank is heavier. A situation called "overbalanced". Some race engines are overbalanced on purpose. For engines I build, I internally balanceall of them. For a bunch of reasons. First, I replace dampeneres. So a neutral one goes on. Second, it means any flywheel or flexplate and/or torque convertor can be installed at any point, with no concerns of whether or not it will vibrate. Third, it it the best way to keep vibratiosn to a minimum. That means more power for a longer life, plus less stress on internal parts while producing that power. The only down side is the cost. The cost to balance always includes the same work. For every balance job, the weights of the big and small ends of the rods, plus the pistons and pins must be equalized. Then the actual weights of the parts are added to the crank. The last step is to spin balance the crank with those weights on it and either add material or remove material to get the crank "in balance. The dampener and flywheel or flex plate and/or convertor are left off when an engine is internally balanced. If you bolt them on, you use thier wieght to help get the crank in. Those parts are "outside the block". Hence the name external balancing. I dont want those to be a factor, because most dampeners(harmonic "balancers") and performance torqconvertors are neutral balance unless you make them otherwise. If you include yours in the spinning process, you mandate the use of those parts indefinately with that engine. On a 360, you can buy a B&M flexplate for about $80 to be able to use neutral torque convertors. But if you have to spend $100 on Mallory (heavier tha iron or steel) metal, you can say that the bonuses of power and longevity will cost you $20-30 more. Is it worth it? It is to me. Also, reusing a balancer on a high performance engine can lead to interesting things like slipping outer rings and engine damage due to lost efficiency from aging elastomers. Frankley, IMO, it's not worth saving $100 by re-using them. You may be able to save some $$ by using a grams scale to match the weights yourself. I can save $50 on the $300 cost by doing that myself. but the shop will stil need to weight the ends seperately unless you buy the stand to do it.
 
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