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Small Block Mopar Engine

  1. furrystump

    furrystump Well-Known Member

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    Save the pennies and go the scat cast stroker kit. This isn’t a race car or is it in the cards. so you don’t need a forged crank. With that foundation run the cast iron heads and upgrade as you enjoy driving it around. Cam choice is for much smarter people than me. I don’t like hyd, but that means adjustable rockers and haven’t we spent all your money yet! I run the scat 4” crank and rods. I can’t recommend them more and I’m the poster child for what not to do to them. I shift at 6300 rpm. Cross the stripe at 6500ish. Hit 7280 rpm with it last weekend when the trans failed to shift out of first. 10+ years of abuse, change the bearings about 4 years ago when I changed pistons. Crank was still straight and rods still round.
     
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    • autoxcuda

      autoxcuda Well-Known Member

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      why did you change the pistons ?
       
    • furrystump

      furrystump Well-Known Member

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      Went from a Icon big dish to Icon flat top. Went from 9.5 to 1 to 12.2 to 1. At that point it had over 700 runs 55,000 street miles and my internal clock was ticking. Wasn’t showing any signs or issues, but was getting long in the tooth. The bearings were toast, not really its fault, I had a couple of head gaskets push into the valley. Got it warm once because the lower radiator hose froze on the open trailer. Doh! So I was pretty hard on it. The bores were straight and round so it just got the dingle ball and bearings/piston/rings and back together it went.
       
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