360 Cam size without changing newer OEM springs

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72moparswinger

72moparswinger

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Hey guys, been working on my 360 build, got all my parts except for the cam , I am having trouble seeing which cam kit I can get that does not require valve springs to be changed, I have new springs and hardend push rods on the motor since it only has 1K or so miles on it so is the cam I have here from summit good for not having to replace valve springs?
Under required parts on the page does not show I need them but under suggested parts it does.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4452757/requiredparts
 
I would think so.The lift isn't much more than a 340 grind.
 
I'm just not wanting to pull the heads and redo the springs for a cam, don't have funds or personal time to go that far into it. you know of any cams that do not require springs?
 
72moparswinger said:
I'm just not wanting to pull the heads and redo the springs for a cam, don't have funds or personal time to go that far into it. you know of any cams that do not require springs?
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you dont have to pull the heads if you can find a spring/retainer combo that will work for your cam.
 
Thanks, This is my first build and I now know how much goes into it mentally to make it work right. I thought if I pull the spring and retainer the valve will fall down into the cylider
 
72moparswinger said:
Thanks, This is my first build and I now know how much goes into it mentally to make it work right. I thought if I pull the spring and retainer the valve will fall down into the cylider
Click to expand...

they will unless you have some means to hold them up in the head...LOL

either use air pressure or nylon cord...
 
72moparswinger said:
Thanks, This is my first build and I now know how much goes into it mentally to make it work right. I thought if I pull the spring and retainer the valve will fall down into the cylider
Click to expand...

There are some pressure adapters that screw into the spark plug hole and you can then hook them up to an air compressor to keep the valves from falling while you change the springs. I'm not sure what they are called, but our local "toolman", toolman mike may be able to tell us what it is.
 
krazykuda said:
There are some pressure adapters that screw into the spark plug hole and you can then hook them up to an air compressor to keep the valves from falling while you change the springs. I'm not sure what they are called, but our local "toolman", toolman mike may be able to tell us what it is.
Click to expand...

I just use the hose size of a compression tester. alot of them have an air chuck on them.
 
you can pull the plugs out and one cylinder at a time you can feed about 12-18" of nylon rope into the spark plug hole and the turn the motor over with a socket on the crank and use that to hold the valves up.
 
I dont get why so many people are skeered of changin valve springs. It's THAT important to get the right spring for your cam. Even if you go with a new stock replacement, new springs oughtta be part of the swap.
 
Here's the thing - the valvetrain - the cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers and shafts, valves locks, and retainers - all have to deal with vibrations - also called harmonics. Each spring design is engineered to function within it's performance window without problems with harmonics. A spring designed for a 2bbl 318, with no vibration dampener might have enough spring pressure - but it might have an issue with harmonics over 4500rpm. So new or not - you can break parts. This is why cam companies say "replace the springs" and why it's important to replace them with something that will cover your use. A 340-type stock spriong has the dampener. 318 and 360 springs do not. So you can replace with 340 springs, or toss on a set of Comp 901-16s which will drop in place and can be run with factory retainers and locks and will cover you for this cam and several sizes larger too.
 
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