Use silicone around the radius ends. also use some silicone to seal the corners where the flat gaskets and the rubber gaskets meet.
Don't torque the oil pan bolts - they will be too tight and may split the flat gaskets. Just snug them starting from the center outward. Start out with just running the clearance out of the bolts, then go over them again and watch for the flat gaskets to start to "squish", then go on to the next one. Then go back around the pattern once after they are all tight and make sure that they still squish slightly when you tighten the bolts.
I like to use "gaskacinch" on the flat gaskets. It's like rubber cement and sold under the edelbrock name through Mancini racing. I use it on all the flat gaskets as it glues the gaskets in place before you put the parts together.
Test fit pan to block. No gaskets, just check that pan flanges are straight and flat. Do this for new or used pans. On used pans check that no one over torqued the bolts and "dimpled" the metal around the holes. If so tap them back with a small hammer. Others I'm sure will provide more info about gaskets and sealants. Good luck. Let us know how it goes. A picture or two is always cool.
Mike
I found my felpro gaskets came short to the rear main cap transition, I used a healthy squeeze of no. 2 selant, to fill it, no leaks. Its good insurance to do so on the front transition as well.
Go through a few heat cycles and resnug the rear bolts, they like to loosen a little.
Thanks for the replies. It's a new stock style pan from Summit. Once I get the pick up cleaned out and installed, I'll check for proper clearances and flatness.
Thanks for the replies. It's a new stock style pan from Summit. Once I get the pick up cleaned out and installed, I'll check for proper clearances and flatness.