360 rebuild advice

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74scamp360

74scamp360

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so i'm just getting ready to pull apart my 360 to just do quick rebuild. My question is since i'm re-using my lifters and pushrods (assuming they're still in good shape) do they need to be numbered and matched up the same when i put it back together or does it matter? thanks guys
 
New cam i would use new lifters,that cam has some good lift to it what is the rest of your build??..
 
74scamp360 said:
i'm putting in that hughes wiplash cam so that nothing needs to be changed out. heres a link if you havn't heard of it

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...lIENhciBDYW1z&searchmode=keyword&partid=25114
Click to expand...

DO NOT INSTALL used lifters on a new camshaft, as per right from Hughes site, and by the way some excellent other reading:

about installing camshafts:

THIS ARTICLE IS A MUST READ

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/New_Camshaft_InstructionsMar2010.pdf


other reading:

http://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/productinstructionsheets.php

Some quotes from the article about installing camshafts:

With flat tappet camshafts, apply the supplied camshaft break-in lube to the cam lobes including
fuel pump lobe, and the lifter bottoms only.

All flat tappet camshafts (both hydraulic and solid) must be installed with new lifters. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!

DO NOT fill, pump-up, or soak any hydraulic lifters before installation

It is very important that the engine does not turn over more than 3 or 4 times to fire up. While you are
cranking over the engine, the break-in lube is being wiped off---BAD NEWS!!! Do not crank the engine with a
new cam to:
1. Bring up the oil pressure.---- Use an oil pump primer shaft
2. Fill the carburetor with fuel. ---- Use your electric pump or take the line off and fill it by hand
3. Check the spark. ---- Take the distributor out and spin it by hand with the ignition key on (non—Magnum)

DO NOT
Let the Engine Idle under 2000 RPM the engine for the first 30 minutes. If you have an oil or water leak that is not dangerous
continue to run the engine 10 minutes before you shut it off.

Fire it up! The engine should not idle in the first 30 minutes. Rev the engine gently from 1500 to 2500 RPM max. After
the break in period, reset the idle and timing.

If you do not follow these instructions, you may be very sad!! The most important time in the life of your new camshaft and
lifters are the first few minutes of start-up.
 
you need new lifters with a new cam as already stated. do not cut corners, you will kick yourself later if you do. your lifters may look fine to the naked eye, but they are already worn to your current cam. if you are using the old cam , that would be the only time you could use the old lifters and yes they would have to go back in the same spot that they came out of.
 
74scamp360 said:
My question is since i'm re-using my lifters and pushrods (assuming they're still in good shape) do they need to be numbered and matched up the same when i put it back together or does it matter? thanks guys
Click to expand...

I'm going the otherway and guessing you all ready have the whiplash cam and lifter set up.

Each lifter should go back onto the same spot in which in came from. This way the lifter is matched to the cam lobe.
 
great advice guys thanks. no i don't have this cam yet so i will need the lifters, as far as i know its completly stock. Other then the cam, the motor will be stock. Thats why i decided on that cam because it can run with the lower comp. ratio. as far as the rest of the driveline its got a little extra stall, a nice shift kit and i'm planning on something like a 3.73 posi in the back. Just a cool street car with a little extra get up but nothing major at all. unfortunaly thats all i can afford for now. any other advice to make the rebuild go as smoothly as possible would be greatly appretiated. again thanks!!
 
the cam lube gets wiped off instantly and all yer left with is a film, which is why type of lube is important and we don't just use motor oil, anyone who says this is wrong is a complete idiot.

don't sit and crank and crank, but within reason crank until it fires, then just keep the rpm's between 2000-3000 rpm and very them 500 rpm every couple of minutes.

btw all the roller cam die hards who say to just go roller to avoid cam flattening....geeez how do all those thousands of slant guys get by...LOL
 
i didn't ask them what kind of numbers they're supposed to make with this cam. must be pretty decent, watch that video of that barracuda and its a basic low comp. engine with headers. Thanks for all the tips on first startup, this is my first engine build so i have much to learn. it says in the ad it will work with stock springs but i guess i'll have to check that for sure. Thanks again guys
 
74scamp360 said:
i didn't ask them what kind of numbers they're supposed to make with this cam. must be pretty decent, watch that video of that barracuda and its a basic low comp. engine with headers. Thanks for all the tips on first startup, this is my first engine build so i have much to learn. it says in the ad it will work with stock springs but i guess i'll have to check that for sure. Thanks again guys
Click to expand...

ok....when I checked on the cam one tech say to get valve springs, a next call on a totally different day a next tech say it's not necessary with that cam BUT it's recommended u kno like cheap insurance....so when I order my own I goin to get the v/s they recomend.
 
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