360 running hot…very hot

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new fan shroud.....drove the car, let it idle....hovered around 190. Put it in gear at idle (simulating stopped traffic) crept up to 200-205. I think that acceptable for a 360...
 
As long as it stops creeping up, its acceptable.
In hot weather it will stabilize 10 or even 20 degrees higher.
If the pressure exceeds the cap rating, temperature will creep again.

So IMHO this will get you by for now but a factory 18" fan, matching shroud, and radiator ought to be in the long term plan.
If you want to get a clutch drive unit to save a little hp, thats an option.
You can't get a true factory, or replica radiator with the later water pump. It will need to be a combination 68-9 with a 70 up outlet position. That's what I finally did, but there are other solutions.
As far as electric goes, I discourage that with the factory wiring.
 
When it creeps up, and if you have the chance, try popping the hood or just opening the hood. Does the temp drop back down again?

That's how mine is (18" fan, 26" rad, shroud, HD clutch fan - even tried it direct drive), and I'm pretty sure it's because the air from the rad fan recirculates when the car is stopped. Doesn't do it if I creep forward even slower than a walking pace, but at a stand-still it creeps up slowly from 194. The highest I've gotten is ~208 on a 90F day idling for probably 20-25 mins in a drivethru. By the time I pulled forward from the window to leave and got to the curb, it had dropped to 199. If I pop the hood at home, it will drop back to 194 within 5 mins. An occasional throttle blip, or holding at 12-1300 rpm for a couple seconds will often drop me 2-3 degrees too. Less timing

I realized the fan was recirculating air when I kept finding leaves and tree seeds stuck to the front of my radiator. The only place they can come from is the driveway I drive over, and there's no way they're sucked up from the ground as I drove forward over them. If I rev it while sitting still, I can watch the dust blow out from under the car, roll forward and get sucked back into the rad. The only way I can think to reduce this is with an air dam, but it's such a minor issue that only exists when fully stopped that I just ignore it. YMMV.
 
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Haven't read all 3 pages, but I see a number of problems:
- pump/fan should be overdriven 10-15% . See: stewartcomponents.com
- the shroud. It needs to cover ALL of the rad core & it needs to sealed to the core. All of the air that comes through the core needs to be pulled through the core.
 
Bewy said:
Haven't read all 3 pages, but I see a number of problems:
- pump/fan should be overdriven 10-15% . See: stewartcomponents.com
- the shroud. It needs to cover ALL of the rad core & it needs to sealed to the core. All of the air that comes through the core needs to be pulled through the core.
Click to expand...


Prepare for the oncoming **** storm for suggesting overdriving the pump.
 
Bewy said:
Haven't read all 3 pages, but I see a number of problems:
- pump/fan should be overdriven 10-15% . See: stewartcomponents.com
- the shroud. It needs to cover ALL of the rad core & it needs to sealed to the core. All of the air that comes through the core needs to be pulled through the core.
Click to expand...
Does anyone make a set of single v-groove pulleys that overdrive the water pump 10-15%?
 
mopowers said:
Does anyone make a set of single v-groove pulleys that overdrive the water pump 10-15%?
Click to expand...

Not that I have ever seen.

I was talking to a company about making some pulleys to do just that but the guy told me I’d only sell 2 sets. One for me and one for the other odd duck out there. I told him he was crazy.

That was several years ago and I now know how correct he was. Look at the **** storm that happens here when discussing pump speed. You’d sell so few you’d be putting your investment money to sleep for way too long, if you ever made money at all.

The nonsense of underdriving the water pump from 70, 80, 90 years ago lives on in the hot rodding world.

I doubt it will die in my lifetime.
 
There is probably several suggestions on here that could be correct. Only you can check them in person. Everyone else is just guessing. If it was me and tried everything mentioned ? I would install a rich/lean gauge on the engine and see if it is a lean condition at idle. I had that problem and just installed smaller air bleeds in the idle circuit. I could leave it idle in gear all day.
 
So many suggestions here, if the measured temps at the thermostat are within reason and don't match the guage in the car, don't be alarmed. If you were really overheating bad you would smell it and possibly hear the engine ping when under load.
 
Good to hear.
I figured, I had the same thing happen to me once. I ran no shroud, so 19" flex o lite is what it took. Never gets hot in the drive thru, traffic, 100 degree weather etc.
Sdriche said:
The radiator is a double pass radiator. I put a proper fan shroud on which covers the entire radiator. The blades do sit inside vs half out so may need to modify. Initial test is that I can feel WAY more air being sucked in. I let it idle and it didn't get past 190. Will drive this week to confirm but seeing improvement. I have a derale 17" fan on the way.
Click to expand...
 
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