Snake
Mopar Nut
If I remember,95 is the number for torquing my stock 360 heads.
One of the FSM, 73 I think, had it at 100 ft lb. 95 ft lb would be in the + or - range.If I remember,95 is the number for torquing my stock 360 heads.
Thanks a bunch,tomorrow I good buddy is coming over to put the springs in the heads,i have done that many years ago,but now i have a hard time garbing small parts with my right hand.Witch head bolt needs sealer?
Head bolts? Or do you mean exhaust manifold bolts?Use a flashlight to check each hole. Don't know about the 360 but with the 318, depending on the year it could have from zero to several holes per side that go into the water jacket.
Put oil on the head bolt threads and under the hex for even torque.
Back in the day when I was learning, and when this vintage of engine was in production, I was always taught to torque them with dry threads. I'd be interested to hear others say what they have learned on the matter.Put oil on the head bolt threads and under the hex for even torque.
Back in the day when I was learning, and when this vintage of engine was in production, I was always taught to torque them with dry threads. I'd be interested to hear others say what they have learned on the matter.
Being oiled when they are supposed to be torqued dry will lead to considerable increase in clamping force, bolt tension, and block distortion. But I suspect you are right that they will torque more evenly with lube.
Really? Head bolts into the water jacket? IIRC, I have never done a 318 but a later 273 did not have head bolts in to the water... at least that I recognized as such. Interesting.....maybe I am not paying attention. I'll take another look...Head bolts.
The outer-most exhaust studs definitely go into the water jacket of the heads on my 318 heads, though!
I was checking '62 and '65 FSM's last night and neither says to torque heads bolts oiled or dry. Which vintage FSM are you looking at? The info in them did change over time....FSM says to lightly lube head bolt threads with oil...
If I remember,95 is the number for torquing my stock 360 heads.
thank you sir.That's what 2 of my FSM's tell me. Makes no mention of lubing the bolts.
Start with the top center bolt, move to bottom center, then the 2 to the left and then to the right. Keep doing that pattern until all of them have been torqued to 50 ft lbs. Then repeat process torquing to 95 ft lbs.
You might want to read paragraph 3.Put oil on the head bolt threads and under the hex for even torque.
Really? Head bolts into the water jacket? IIRC, I have never done a 318 but a later 273 did not have head bolts in to the water... at least that I recognized as such. Interesting.....maybe I am not paying attention. I'll take another look...
All understood. Clamping force for oiled vs. dry vs. specially lubed threads (like ARP's) is all in the design of the tightening process. So there is really no universal answer.... regardless of any general document. I can find a general document from back in the day that says to use anti-seize on all head bolt threads.... Dry and clean yields a certain friction between the threads; oiled produces a different friction; each produces a given torque to clamping force relationship and are reported to be about 25% different.You might want to read paragraph 3.
Federal-Mogul Resource Center - Technical Information
And I finally realized I was being dumb and thinking you were saying the head bolts intersected the water jacket in the HEADS... took me a while to get that straight. LOLIt is certainly true on several blocks I've had! Check out post #33 for pictures:
To sleeve or start over?
I was checking '62 and '65 FSM's last night and neither says to torque heads bolts oiled or dry. Which vintage FSM are you looking at? The info in them did change over time....