360 tuning- stumbling issue... Need tuning advice

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ClarkDart70

Street Machines Limited
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Plainfield, IN
I just finished the rebuild on my la360 with a mild mp perf cam. Everything idles well currently at 800 rpm neutral idle at 20* advanced on a factory set Pertronix flame thrower II ready to run dizzy.I'm running into two issues:
1) From a stop, if I heavy foot the throttle it falls on its face and sometimes stalls out.
2) cruising at 45-50 under light throttle it feels like a bogging.


Now I am running a summit (Holley) 650 cfm carb with I believe a 65 power valve... I only measure 7.5 vacuum at neutral idle. Is my power valve too large for my vacuum?


Secondaries? Too early causing mix issues?


Do I need to change the factory set timing curve on the dizzy?


I played with the fuel mix, advance, and neutral idle. What is my next step?


Thanks
Clark
 
Your power valve should be half your idle vacuum in gear. That may be your light throttle bog issue.

Off the line, have you adjusted the accelerator pump linkage correctly?

then try different squirters. If you are bogging right away, I would try going a little bit larger on the squirters if the pump adjustment doesn't fix it.

Then move on to the accelerator pump cam.


Is your carb mechanical or vacuum secondaries?

What is the curve on your distributor? Map it from idle to 3500. what is total advance and initial advance. Are you using vacuum advance or not?
 
Ok I adjusted the accelerator pump linkage and from start the bog is gone.It's a vacuum advance... Not sure about curve or how to map it. Carb has vacuum secondaries.
Is it worth picking up a smaller power valve? They are only $8 and are pretty straight forward to swap.
I checked my plugs and no sign of running to lean or rich.
 
Maybe it's just me but the vacuum seems a bit low if you are running a mild cam. I run the Comp HE268H and mine idles at around 13 -14 vacuum.

Have you actually tuned the carb with the vacuum gauge?
 
Yes I have. It seems low to me as well. I'll continue to tweak, but I am starting to think I may have a leak.
 
Did you degree the cam in when you installed it? Hope so cause Mopar perf. cams have been pretty bad the last few yrs. on accuracy. I know a guy that builds quite a few engines and he said he has seen them as much as 8 degrees off so he won't even use them anymore. If the carb is tuned right and it doesn't have a vac leak that could be the reason why the vacuum is so low.

Exactly which cam did you use anyway? There are several smaller Mopar perf. cams so saying you used a mild one really doesn't tell us much at all. Another thing to consider is what is mild? To one guy it has to idle perfectly smooth while to another anything under 260 degrees at .050" lift is mild.
 
Ok I adjusted the accelerator pump linkage and from start the bog is gone.It's a vacuum advance... Not sure about curve or how to map it. Carb has vacuum secondaries.
Is it worth picking up a smaller power valve? They are only $8 and are QUOTE]

To map the distributor curve:

You mush have an advance timing light with a dial on the back.

Start the engine and let it idle. Connect the timing light and a tune up tachometer (engine analyzer) to the engine. Record the RPM and how many degrees advanced you are.

Then bump it up to the next "level" (I suggest going by every 250 RPM). So then use 1000 RPM and then check the timing and record it.

Keep increasing RPM 250 until you get to 3500 or 4000.

You can check this with and then without vacuum advance to see the difference.


Now for the power valve. Yes, I think you should think about changing it. Here's how to determine what to do:


POWER ENRICHMENT SYSTEM​

The power enrichment system supplies additional fuel to the
main system during heavy load or full power situations. Holley
carburetors utilize a vacuum operated power enrichment system
and a selection of power valves is available to “time” this system’s
operation to your specific needs. Each Holley power
valve is stamped with a number to indicate the vacuum opening
point. For example, the number “65” indicates that the power
valve will open when the engine vacuum drops to 6.5" or
below. An accurate vacuum gauge, such as Holley P/N
26-501, should be used when determining the correct power
valve to use. A competition or race engine which has a long
duration high overlap camshaft will have low manifold vacuum
at idle speeds. If the vehicle has a manual transmission, take
the vacuum reading with the engine thoroughly warmed up and
at idle. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission,
take the vacuum reading with the engine thoroughly
warmed up and idling in gear. In either case, the power valve
selected should be 1/2 the intake manifold vacuum reading
taken. EXAMPLE: 13” Hg vacuum reading divided by 2 = 6.5
power valve. If your reading divided by 2 lands on an even
number you should select the next lowest power valve. EXAMPLE:
8” Hg vacuum reading divided by 2 = 4 power valve.
Since there is no #4 power valve you should use a 3.5.

Most of the popular Holley “Street Legal” and “Street
Performance” carburetors incorporate a power valve blow-out
protection system. A special check valve is located in the throttle
body expressly for this purpose. This check valve is
designed to be normally open but will quickly seat to close off
the internal vacuum passage when a backfire occurs. Once
closed, the check valve interrupts the pressure wave caused by
the backfire, thus protecting the power valve.

If you have a carburetor older than 1992 (or you have experienced
an extreme backfire) and expect a blown power valve,
use this simple test. TEST: At idle turn your idle mixture screws
(found on the side of the metering block) all the way in. If your
engine dies the power valve is not blown.​

THE TRUTH ABOUT POWER
VALVES USED WITH HOLLEY

CARBURETORS​

There still seems to be a lot of misconception about
Holley carburetors blowing power valves. Nothing
could be further from the truth. Holley performance
carburetors built since 1992 have utilized a power
valve check system that effectively eliminated this
infrequent problem. Consisting of a spring, brass
seat and check ball, the check ball system is 100%
effective protecting the power valve diaphragm
from damage due to engine backfire.

The power valve check ball is designed to be
normally open but quickly seals to close off the
internal vacuum passage when a backfire occurs.
Once closed, the check valve interrupts the pressure
wave generated by the backfire, thus protecting the
power valve diaphragm. There is no way that the​
power valve’s diaphragm
 
That PV selection process doesn't always get you the right PV. It's a good starting point. Another is take reading in gear and subtract 2 from what you see. It's a decent starting point.

The best way to determine which PV to use is with an A/F gauge.

You can also do it using a vacuum gauge and noting where the stumble occurs in relation to vacuum noted and throttle pressure. If it starts to stumble before reaching the PV rating, it needs a higher number PV.

I've tuned cars that pull 10-12" in idle with a 10.5 PV.
 
So, long story short, I bumped the timing up another 10* advanced and lowered the curb idle to give me a neutral idle of 850.Re tuned my air/fuel screws with the vacuum guage and now pull a steady 11.All hesitation and stumbling are gone.
 
Buy the different accelerator pump cams and try them, what color of pump cam do you have now?
 
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