383/489 Stroker

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1973Duster383

1973Duster383

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Looking for some insight on a build that I will be starting soon.

383 bored .030
4.25" steel crank
H Beam Molnar Rods
Ross pistons with 9.92 dish.

I will be using CNC ported Stealth heads with 80cc chamber. Comp ratio is 10.78:1 using a .039 gasket with 4.500 bore (typical fel pro head gasket from parts store)

Car weighs 3400#, 727 with 2600 stall, 3.91 gears, 28" tire

I have a cam on the shelf from a previous build that went another direction. I would like to use this cam if possible to get some use out of my purchase. If you guys feel it is totally wrong, I will keep it on the shelf.

Specs are 230*/236*, .541"/.537", 110* hydraulic roller.

Goal with the car is to have a fun street ripper. Not looking for max effort. Concerned this cam will not make power beyond 5,000RPM
 
Cam will be taxed past 6000 rpm.imo
If you seriously want just a around town tire ripper... then it'll do that fine...But...with all that head, crank, pi$tons... I'd think you'd turn it up a little more then that...so my advice is to Increase the @.050 duration roughly 8 degrees if want to get 'some' of your monies worth of all the other parts. Low r motors get you in trouble if you have a heavy foot.like me.

Nice build though, it will put you back in the seat hard.
 
That cam is going to be lost in that big of a motor. I built a mild street 427 BBC was .060 over so ended up being a 440. I had 11.25-1 compression with Eddy open chamber oval port heads, the cam was a .585/.585 lift with .245/.255 Hydraulic roller with a holley strip dominator intake. The motor made 550 Hp and 513 tq, was done by 5500 rpm. I dont care what anybody say's i have yet to see anybody get a hyd cam to rev or make power past 5500-5800 rpm.

Put a .600" solid roller in the thing and enjoy it.
 
Fisher said:
That cam is going to be lost in that big of a motor. I built a mild street 427 BBC was .060 over so ended up being a 440. I had 11.25-1 compression with Eddy open chamber oval port heads, the cam was a .585/.585 lift with .245/.255 Hydraulic roller with a holley strip dominator intake. The motor made 550 Hp and 513 tq, was done by 5500 rpm. I dont care what anybody say's i have yet to see anybody get a hyd cam to rev or make power past 5500-5800 rpm.

Put a .600" solid roller in the thing and enjoy it.
Click to expand...
not a good comparison to his build.
 
Yes it is. I ran a .585. lift cam in a small motor and it made decent power and had good idle and acceleration etc. His cam is way to small for that size of motor. Might as well just build a bullshit 440 and call it a day, be better off.

My buddy has a 540 BBC with a .714 bracket roller in it, the car runs 9.02 and he drives it out on the interstate.
 
IMO, the comparison is good because an engine is an air pump no matter what the brand is. I also agree, a Hyd.roller doesn’t really like to rev really high unless you make the effort. And I’m not crazy about that route as a solid cam (roller or not) is a better deal in my book over the hyd roller. Easier to set up the valve train geometry to boot.
 
BB Chevy head, BB Mopar head, apples, oranges and comparing cam profiles between both. lol OK
 
I have an 383/489 stroker, my cam is a comp solid, specs are 570 lift with 1.6 rockers, 244-248@.050 duration, 114 lsa, I might go larger, this cam can idle at 800 RPMs!
 
^ how much lash?

I think this cam will be a "little on the small side", if you want "sound"(which I think is mostly for all show, no-go trailer park trash:mad:), but it should be a very nice cam to actually drive and live with.

I'd go with a smaller bore gasket set, if possible. A FP-1009 is 4.410, and there's a bunch of MLS gaskets from Cometic/Mopar/Mr Gasket that have bores between 4.350 and 4.440 that "should" work very well, if a bit more $.

With that 4.25 stroke, I don't think a bunch of rpm is required or even desirable. With that gear and tire, 65mph is about 3100rpm. Your opinion is the only one that matters whether that's good, bad or indifferent.

I ran some generic #'s through pipemax, based on what I know/assume about the cam and heads and here's what I got: (using street headers w/muffler)

Expected HP: 585 (avg) 565(low est)
Expected torque: 618 (avg) 595 (low est)
Operating rpm of components: 3500-5500
Octane req: 99-100 (R+M/2)
Max rod tension: 2420 G (multiple this by the reciprocating mass and this is what your rod bolts need to handle)

Opinion: I'd go to a 3.55 rear end gear or a taller tire. But I think this would be a very "fun" engine with **** tons of torque, and unless you're on a prepped track, you are going to be traction limited all the time. S/F....Ken M
 
1973Duster383 said:
Looking for some insight on a build that I will be starting soon.

383 bored .030
4.25" steel crank
H Beam Molnar Rods
Ross pistons with 9.92 dish.

I will be using CNC ported Stealth heads with 80cc chamber. Comp ratio is 10.78:1 using a .039 gasket with 4.500 bore (typical fel pro head gasket from parts store)

Car weighs 3400#, 727 with 2600 stall, 3.91 gears, 28" tire

I have a cam on the shelf from a previous build that went another direction. I would like to use this cam if possible to get some use out of my purchase. If you guys feel it is totally wrong, I will keep it on the shelf.

Specs are 230*/236*, .541"/.537", 110* hydraulic roller.

Goal with the car is to have a fun street ripper. Not looking for max effort. Concerned this cam will not make power beyond 5,000RPM
Click to expand...
Long stroke is going to like more duration. I run a 238@.050 solid in a 360 and it’s done by 5400. You need to feed those Ci.
 
I ran a 260-264 @.050 solid flat tappet in my 470 on the Dyno and it peaked at 5700 rpm.
That cam in a bigger engine will definitely be a street ripper but your peak will probably be 5000-5200 and 600 foot pounds at 3000 rpm, just a sorta educated guess. Buy 3 sets of rear tires at a time lol
 
Having done engines for longer than I care to admit and what I find is people over cam and under head engines.

Very few heads have the port volume to support the size of valves that are in even stock heads, let alone heads that have large valves.

Cams are not the issue with 90% of builds I see. Running out of air to feed larger cubes is almost always the problem.

However the bigger is better mentality of well lets put a bigger cam in and it will run faster is not going to cure this and only makes for an engine that has poor manners.

The other issue I always encounter is a lot of guys want to see 6500 to 7000 rpms on the tach. To make power and see higher rpms in an engine you must have cylinder

heads that can feed it. The cam isn't failing the engine the heads are. I have a Comp Cams Extreme Energy XR274R 236/242 @ .050", .564"/ .570" in my 499RB.

www.compcams.com

Xtreme Energy 236/242 Solid Roller Cam (3 Bolt) for Chrysler 383-440

Xtreme Energy 236/242 Solid Roller Cam for Chrysler 383-440 (Three-Bolt). Best all around street roller. 9.5:1 Compression with a 2500+ stall.
www.compcams.com www.compcams.com

More than once I've been told I am way under cammed for an engine this size. Yet it has great street manners and is still pulling like a freight train when I shift at 6200 rpms.

Big cams are a poor band aid for under performing heads.

Tom
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
Having done engines for longer than I care to admit and what I find is people over cam and under head engines.

Very few heads have the port volume to support the size of valves that are in even stock heads, let alone heads that have large valves.

Cams are not the issue with 90% of builds I see. Running out of air to feed larger cubes is almost always the problem.

However the bigger is better mentality of well lets put a bigger cam in and it will run faster is not going to cure this and only makes for an engine that has poor manners.

The other issue I always encounter is a lot of guys want to see 6500 to 7000 rpms on the tach. To make power and see higher rpms in an engine you must have cylinder

heads that can feed it. The cam isn't failing the engine the heads are. I have a Comp Cams Extreme Energy XR274R 236/242 @ .050", .564"/ .570" in my 499RB.

[/URL]

More than once I've been told I am way under cammed for an engine this size. Yet it has great street manners and is still pulling like a freight train when I shift at 6200 rpms.

Big cams are a poor band aid for under performing heads.

Tom
Click to expand...

Where does your engine make peak torque?
 
famous bob said:
almost no mopar head will compare with a bbc ...
Click to expand...
fishmens67 said:
and yet some don't get that.
Click to expand...
The WORST bb chevy head, the peanut port head that every chevy racer throws away, flows better than a stock 906/452 head..
And a decent aftermarket oval/roval port head outflows a cnc'ed 270 TFS head. And so does a $400 ($800/pr) speedmaster head.
 
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The OP’s engine combo is certainly a candidate for way more duration than 230/236@.050.

In my mind, it really comes down to how the vehicle will be used and what the expectations are.

One red flag I see with that combo and a big cam is the “2600” converter.

I like the cam and converter to be on the same page.
Big cam = high stall

As an example, the TF HR cam(243/247-108) would work fine in that combo if you put a 3800 converter behind the motor.

Edit- I just realized this is a 5 year old thread:rolleyes:
 
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PROSTOCKTOM said:
Having done engines for longer than I care to admit and what I find is people over cam and under head engines.

Very few heads have the port volume to support the size of valves that are in even stock heads, let alone heads that have large valves.

Cams are not the issue with 90% of builds I see. Running out of air to feed larger cubes is almost always the problem.

However the bigger is better mentality of well lets put a bigger cam in and it will run faster is not going to cure this and only makes for an engine that has poor manners.

The other issue I always encounter is a lot of guys want to see 6500 to 7000 rpms on the tach. To make power and see higher rpms in an engine you must have cylinder

heads that can feed it. The cam isn't failing the engine the heads are. I have a Comp Cams Extreme Energy XR274R 236/242 @ .050", .564"/ .570" in my 499RB.

[/URL]

More than once I've been told I am way under cammed for an engine this size. Yet it has great street manners and is still pulling like a freight train when I shift at 6200 rpms.

Big cams are a poor band aid for under performing heads.

Tom
Click to expand...
Agreed. I run a solid 238/238 .558 on 108 in my 360. with good air it makes power to 5600 with aluminum 2.02 heads. My FE made better torque with 2.08 heads and a 4.04 bore. Chryslers struggle in the cylnder head department.
 
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