383 Broken exhaust stud please help!

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I would weld a nut or washer then nut and work it out. Or cut it out with a torch. Both methods I would run a tap through afterwards.
 
E7polyhachett said:
This will work..... as he has said, you can use a torch as steel does have a lower melting temp as cast iron does. You do need to keep the torch turned down on the temperature
so as to keep most of the heat on the exhaust stud. As it melts down, take a regular screwdriver, or pick and work the loose stuff out. I have never checked to see how
deep the stud hole is, just make sure you don't go to far.

I have also used my mig welder, and used a 3/8" fender washer, just be sure to
grind the inside of the washer hole, then place the washer flat to the head, and
turn your heat setting up to high, then go into the hole with the mig wire, and
fill the drilled out area of the stud, up with wire including the washer, then place
a larger nut to the washer, and fill with weld. This will put quite a bit of heat to
the stud, which should loosen up the rust, crud, etc, and you should be able
to remove it. Once it starts to turn....work it back and forth, and it should
come on out. If it breaks off, go back to the drawing board, and start over.
I have gotten everyone out, that the broken stud needed to be removed.
Click to expand...

Option 1 is the route I'm going to pursue! Will keep every one posted. A lot of good points in here and I'm appreciative of all the advice
 
Does anyone have any recommended mobile welders or machine shops in Orange County, California? The only shop I've found local quoted me $400 and I would have to tow it to them
 
Redfoxestco said:
Does anyone have any recommended mobile welders or machine shops in Orange County, California? The only shop I've found local quoted me $400 and I would have to tow it to them
Click to expand...
Ouch! Sounds like the best way for you you to do this is to pull the head and go from there. Use one of the recommendations in this thread depending on your skill level. You can do it!
 
Redfoxestco said:
Does anyone have any recommended mobile welders or machine shops in Orange County, California? The only shop I've found local quoted me $400 and I would have to tow it to them
Click to expand...

Try talking it to a muffler shop. They mig weld all day long.
 
The drilling, tapping, or ez-out stuff never works. Heat is the only way.

If it were me, I'd pull the head and place a nut over the broken stud and fill with weld from the stud to the top of the nut. The heat from welding is usually enough to get the stud moving. There's usually a lot of corrosion on the water jacket side of the threads, so may need to loosen/tighten several times while adding more heat and blaster.

I did have a machine shop mill one out and thread oversize once, I ended up have to use a stepped stud but it was a good repair.
 
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I once had two broken bolts on an old Ford flathead V8. One was a head bolt, and the other was a water pump bolt, …that was bolted to the block from “inside” the water pump. Both breaks left me with a small stub to grab on to. This was a 1951 engine, so I was sure I was screwed. I went onto a flathead forum where the old/timers told me to alternate applying a torch and penetrating oil to the bolts. It took about 5 times before i got any movement. I also shock-tapped them with a hammer to loosen the threads. With vice grips on the stub, I tapped the vice grip handle in both directions and got a slight movement each time. Soon I was getting a quarter turn and then more. In and out. I got both bolts out and had zero damage to the original threads in the block. It took a lot of patience.

in this case you may be able to get traction with an easy out, but try the heat and penetrating oil first to help loosen it.
 
The first thing is, don't give up. This what I have done in similar situations:
Using a very sharp punch, try to punch a starting mark for drilling as close to the center of the bolt as you can and keep punching until you have a deep starting mark. Start drilling with a 1/8 bit and keep drilling with graguating larger sizes until the bolt is mostly gone. Then helicoil the hole. You might try a right angle drill attachment for better access.
 
Rule #1, pull the head. Rule #2, pull the head. Lastly, yeah, pull the head and do it right, you won't regret it in the end.
 
E7polyhachett said:
This will work..... as he has said, you can use a torch as steel does have a lower melting temp as cast iron does. You do need to keep the torch turned down on the temperature
so as to keep most of the heat on the exhaust stud. As it melts down, take a regular screwdriver, or pick and work the loose stuff out. I have never checked to see how
deep the stud hole is, just make sure you don't go to far.

I have also used my mig welder, and used a 3/8" fender washer, just be sure to
grind the inside of the washer hole, then place the washer flat to the head, and
turn your heat setting up to high, then go into the hole with the mig wire, and
fill the drilled out area of the stud, up with wire including the washer, then place
a larger nut to the washer, and fill with weld. This will put quite a bit of heat to
the stud, which should loosen up the rust, crud, etc, and you should be able
to remove it. Once it starts to turn....work it back and forth, and it should
come on out. If it breaks off, go back to the drawing board, and start over.
I have gotten everyone out, that the broken stud needed to be removed.
Click to expand...
A good way to remove the stud with head removed but would like to add. Would it also help to let the stud cool after welding and heat the head around the stud to expand the metal around the stud for a easier removal? Smacking the stud with a pointed chisel before welding may also help in loosing the stud. If not too deep, I have had luck with a small sharp chisel and set a notch at the edge of the stud and spun it out by tapping gently. In any case, removal of the head is first.
 
A small nuclear device placed in just the right location might blow it out…..
 
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