383 harmonic balancer install

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Darren

Darren

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hey guys i an in the proces of reinstalling my balancer back on my 68 383. I have it lubed up and i can push it on about a 1/4 " with my hand. can i gentley tap it with a carpenters hammer with a 2x4 agaist the balancer just enough to get the bolt started. I noticed every light tap the balancer is moving. thanks
 
Plenty of people have knocked them on through the years, but I like to use a balancer installer so there's no chance of hurting anything.
 
I went to local bolt supply shop and picked up a chunk of all thread and a nut and heavy washer. I use that to pull it on. The hammer method is gonna be banging on ur thrust bearing on bottom end. Spend the $ 15 and do it safely.
 
The right way is with the balancer installer, but you can also use a small block bolt to start it...
 
Several ways. If you have a fastener's shop, get a bolt the same thread as your operational bolt only longer. Get a few flat washers. You can use the combo of that longer bolt and washers to start it and pull it in, until the operational bolt will safely start and pull it on in
 
I've grown to not really like pulling balancers on with a bolt. Think about what you're doing. You are exerting two forces on the crankshaft threads. You are rotating the bolt into the crank while pulling on the threads very hard. It's just not a recipe for good things to happen. I know it's been done since the beginning of time......I've done it myself. But you always see metal chips from the threads. That ain't a good thing. The all thread rod and nut and thick washers is a great idea. Just make sure you buy two nuts, lock them together and tighten the all thread rod good in the crank before you push the balancer on. That way there will be no damage to the crank threads.
 
I ended up tapping the first 1/2" on with small hammer and block until stock bolt would catch the threads. it was slipping on good with vary little force. it should be good. i guess i should of asked the question before i started installing it. thanks
 
The stock ones often go on easy. The aftermarket ones are always a beeotch. I usually hone them with a brake cylinder hone until they go on easier.
 
i would think you would have to hit it with more than a carpenters hammer to damage anything.
 
Installing with a proper tool is the best way, or possibly the threaded rod idea mentioned. Basically if you use the install tool you are using ALL of the threads on the crankshaft to install the damper, instead of just a few with the bolt. This allows the damper to be installed in compression against the crank nose when the tool threads stop, instead of a couple threads in tension. A few extra minutes and $25-$30 to rent a tool (which you get back as soon as you are done) is a lot cheaper than having to get your crank machined because threads were ripped out.

I won't even get into tapping with a hammer. Leave that to the Chevy guys...

I have heard an interesting method using boiling water with the damper in it, and an ice pack on the crank nose. Then quickly (with gloves on) slide the damper on. In theory the damper should grow and the crank should shrink enough to slide on. I'd still use anti-seize. Never install a damper dry without some form of lubrication, it will tear up the damper and the crank surface.
 
nerd racing said:
Installing with a proper tool is the best way, or possibly the threaded rod idea mentioned. Basically if you use the install tool you are using ALL of the threads on the crankshaft to install the damper, instead of just a few with the bolt. This allows the damper to be installed in compression against the crank nose when the tool threads stop, instead of a couple threads in tension. A few extra minutes and $25-$30 to rent a tool (which you get back as soon as you are done) is a lot cheaper than having to get your crank machined because threads were ripped out.

I won't even get into tapping with a hammer. Leave that to the Chevy guys...

I have heard an interesting method using boiling water with the damper in it, and an ice pack on the crank nose. Then quickly (with gloves on) slide the damper on. In theory the damper should grow and the crank should shrink enough to slide on. I'd still use anti-seize. Never install a damper dry without some form of lubrication, it will tear up the damper and the crank surface.
Click to expand...


I did a version of that on an International engine. Balancer in the oven to 200°, ice on the crank snout. Slid right on. Hate banging 'em with a hammer.
 
i did use anti seize on the ID of the balancer and engine oil on the OD of the balancer for the front seal. And Bob i will get the tool for next time. Thanks
 
For not even $100, I bought the OTC-4531. Super nice piece, that makes installation drama free. I am a budget car hobbyist, like a lot of people. But the only way you get a nice tool collection is to buy them as you go. I don't understand messing around with threaded rods, bolts, washers, beating things with hammers. Buy the correct tool and save yourself a potential headache. JMO.
 
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