383 power upgrade help

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Joey N

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Hello to everyone that sees this! I have a 383 out of a 67 newport bored .30 over flat top pistons with 516 heads I believe they are untouched but I don't know for sure , I am looking for advice on what kind of heads I should get I want to go aluminum but I need to here everyone's opinions and what they think is best this will be going into a 73 Duster paired with a OD 4 speed I don't need a lot of power but enough to have fun and sound good It will be daily driven to school and back so not too much. Id also like to know if anyone can suggest a good cam I here all kinds of mixed opinions on comp cams vs Hughes but I wanted to go with Hughes whiplash cam if possible. Thank you for all of your time and patience im fairly new to this I am also only 17
 
You don't mention what your budget is, but the 440 Source Stealth heads are a pretty good bang for the buck.
 
Hello to everyone that sees this! I have a 383 out of a 67 newport bored .30 over flat top pistons with 516 heads I believe they are untouched but I don't know for sure , I am looking for advice on what kind of heads I should get I want to go aluminum but I need to here everyone's opinions and what they think is best this will be going into a 73 Duster paired with a OD 4 speed I don't need a lot of power but enough to have fun and sound good It will be daily driven to school and back so not too much. Id also like to know if anyone can suggest a good cam I here all kinds of mixed opinions on comp cams vs Hughes but I wanted to go with Hughes whiplash cam if possible. Thank you for all of your time and patience im fairly new to this I am also only 17
Afford the best cylinder head you can and top it with a rpm intake (For the street) and a 750, add headers.

Where do your pistons sit in the cylinder? How far down? This is a key item to know. This could help guide you to the heads cc chamber amount.

Your bore size maybe a limitation to valve size.

That and welcome aboard!
 
You don't mention what your budget is, but the 440 Source Stealth heads are a pretty good bang for the buck.
I have not really settled on a budget I don't want to go Chinese brand I'd rather stick with 440 source edelbrock so on I just don't know much about any of them
 
Afford the best cylinder head you can and top it with a rpm intake (For the street) and a 750, add headers.

Where do your pistons sit in the cylinder? How far down? This is a key item to know. This could help guide you to the heads cc chamber amount.

Your bore size maybe a limitation to valve size.

That and welcome aboard!
Thank you I'm happy to be here could you tell me how I'd go about checking how fat they sit do I just use a regular tape or something special I have a picture of the pistons sitting in the cylinder if that would do any help
 
Hi Joey N, welcome aboard. You have my absolute favorite motor there. My best friend in high school had a '66 charger with the 383.

You will eventually want to get your hands on these books, and others. Search around on Amazon. The engine math book is a MUST, get it before you spend any more money.

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1704872612645.png
 
Another book that I consider totally invaluable is "Old Reliable The Practical 440 Race Motor" by Don Dulmage. It is a fantastic resource whose ideas can easily be transferred to the 383. While you may not be building a race motor, it covers in depth DIY things that will save money and teach you things that will be with you forever. The only catch is finding a copy. It's been out of print for a while now, but they still pop up from time to time.
 
Hi Joey N, welcome aboard. You have my absolute favorite motor there. My best friend in high school had a '66 charger with the 383.

You will eventually want to get your hands on these books, and others. Search around on Amazon. The engine math book is a MUST, get it before you spend any more money.

View attachment 1716190173

View attachment 1716190174
I agree with Ottmundr. 383/400s are, or at least used to be, very under rated engines. They will make lots of power if the right combo is chosen, & you won't have to spend a ton of money. Read as much as you can about low deck big block Chryslers as you can before spending dime one. Bigger isn't always better.
 
I have not really settled on a budget I don't want to go Chinese brand I'd rather stick with 440 source edelbrock so on I just don't know much about any of them
440 source heads are chink heads.
Edelbrock are made in America.
Thank you I'm happy to be here could you tell me how I'd go about checking how fat they sit do I just use a regular tape or something special I have a picture of the pistons sitting in the cylinder if that would do any help
Once the cylinder head and head gasket are off, you need a magnetic bridge and dial indicator. Zero out the gauge like pictured below with the gauge set low in the bridge for full plunger extension ability. The. Slide it over the the center of the piston and watch the need on the gauge rotate around and measure.

image.jpg
 
@Joey N When you said you have flat top pistons, the stock engines came with flat top pistons a lot and performance pistons are also flat top often but the difference is the performance pistons are often taller for more compression. They also have valve reliefs.

What are you thinking power wise? How much? Is there a goal for the time slip? Or is this just a general statement of a nice powerful street car?

With the big block in the Duster & a reasonable gear ratio (did you have a gear ratio in mind?) you’ll be able to roast the tires easy. I had a 400 in a ‘71 Duster w/a 727.

With that OD trans in there, you’ll use the first 3 gears which end in a 1:1 so, that’s what you’ll race with or enjoy the most on acceleration. The OD drops the overall ratio. The math is the OD ratio multiples by the gear ratio.

OH! The speedometer gear will be calculated at the 1:1 gear to be accurate. Not the OD gear.

That set up will be a lot of fun.
 
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440 source heads are chink heads.
Edelbrock are made in America.

Once the cylinder head and head gasket are off, you need a magnetic bridge and dial indicator. Zero out the gauge like pictured below with the gauge set low in the bridge for full plunger extension ability. The. Slide it over the the center of the piston and watch the need on the gauge rotate around and measure.

View attachment 1716190216
Okay I'll need to pick one of those up before I buy any heads I want to do this right the first time but doesn't always go that way
 
@Joey N When you said you have flat top pistons, the stock engines came with flat top pistons a lot and performance pistons are also flat top often but the difference is the performance pistons are often taller for more compression. They also have valve reliefs.

What are you thinking power wise? How much? Is there a goal for the time slip? Or is this just a general statement of a nice powerful street car?

With the big block in the Duster & a reasonable gear ratio (did you have a gear ratio in mind?) you’ll be able to roast the tires easy. I had a 400 in a ‘71 Duster w/a 727.

With that OD trans in there, you’ll use the first 3 gears which end in a 1:1 so, that’s what you’ll race with or enjoy the most on acceleration. The OD drops the overall ratio. The math is the OD ratio multiples by the gear ratio.

OH! The speedometer gear will be calculated at the 1:1 gear to be accurate. Not the OD gear.

That set up will be a lot of fun.
I don't think I'll ever be taking it to the drag strip or maybe once mostly looking for a nice powerful street car I don't have any gearing ratio in mind but I'll be on the freeway pretty often now that I think of it. Yeah I need to fix the linkage on the OD it's not set properly but I have time for that
 
I agree with Ottmundr. 383/400s are, or at least used to be, very under rated engines. They will make lots of power if the right combo is chosen, & you won't have to spend a ton of money. Read as much as you can about low deck big block Chryslers as you can before spending dime one. Bigger isn't always better.
Okay will do thank you
 
Hi Joey N, welcome aboard. You have my absolute favorite motor there. My best friend in high school had a '66 charger with the 383.

You will eventually want to get your hands on these books, and others. Search around on Amazon. The engine math book is a MUST, get it before you spend any more money.

View attachment 1716190173

View attachment 1716190174
Okay I'll just order these now since they'll last me forever hopefully
 
Okay I'll need to pick one of those up before I buy any heads I want to do this right the first time but doesn't always go that way
See if you can borrow one or have a friend over to check it before purchasing one for just this alone.
I don't think I'll ever be taking it to the drag strip or maybe once mostly looking for a nice powerful street car I don't have any gearing ratio in mind but I'll be on the freeway pretty often now that I think of it. Yeah I need to fix the linkage on the OD it's not set properly but I have time for that
Is your trans an automatic or manual. I thought I read manual before?

Freeway traveling? At what speed?
 
See if you can borrow one or have a friend over to check it before purchasing one for just this alone.

Is your trans an automatic or manual. I thought I read manual before?

Freeway traveling? At what speed?
It is a manual a833 od unit freeway speeds probably 60-70
 
Hello to everyone that sees this! I have a 383 out of a 67 newport bored .30 over flat top pistons with 516 heads I believe they are untouched but I don't know for sure , I am looking for advice on what kind of heads I should get I want to go aluminum but I need to here everyone's opinions and what they think is best this will be going into a 73 Duster paired with a OD 4 speed I don't need a lot of power but enough to have fun and sound good It will be daily driven to school and back so not too much. Id also like to know if anyone can suggest a good cam I here all kinds of mixed opinions on comp cams vs Hughes but I wanted to go with Hughes whiplash cam if possible. Thank you for all of your time and patience im fairly new to this I am also only 17
I'd probably go with stealth heads there cheap and have decent hp potential, as for cam I wouldn't go crazy with 1st round, (you'll probably do many upgrades to zero it in). Depending on rear gear and cr, don't need a ton of rear gear the OD trans has a very steep first gear 3.09 problem is second gears is 1.67 fairly large drop making choosing ideal rear gear tricky (probably 3.55 on a 27" tire, taller tire go with deeper gear). Around 225 to 230 cam on a 108/110 with around .500" would be the ones I'd be looking at.
 
Yes if you are going to put it together yourself you will need some reference books and tools. A factory manual for your '73 will be useful for not just the car, but engine and trans questions. And then a performance engine book of some sort, I like the factory published Chrysler Racing Manuals or Mopar Performance by SA Design.

As for tools you'll need a dial indicator for a variety things, but perhaps most importantly to dial in that aftermarket cam. You can buy a kit with a wheel, indicator and stuff from places like Summit. If your short block is presently together you can simply measure your piston to deck by bolting a home made stop, (a piece of bar stock with a hole for a head bolt and tapped hole for a adjustable bolt to use as stop), find TDC and just measure the piston to deck in line with the piston pin with an assortment of feeler gauges. Then you can calculate using the on-line program on the Summit site or Wallace to get your approximate compression ratio with the camber CC specs from the heads you expect to purchase so you can better order a cam that will work well.
 
Just as a point of reference, Jim Laroy didn't seem to mind that 440 Source heads are "chink" heads. He made over 700HP using them.
 
If you are down on compression ratio you can angle mill your cylinder heads to get the most CC off of the big side of the chamber.

A set of 440 source Stealth heads flow better than most ported stock heads which makes them a good, inexpensive option. I would have a set shipped to Porter Racing Heads for prep and have him send you a cam when the heads come home. You don't need anything radical to make 450-500hp if you have headers and a decent intake. Even 425hp would be plenty for an all weather driver IMO. That is easily obtainable with the stock manifolds.
 
it has a edelbrock intake I don’t remember which one though I want to get nice headers but I don’t know what will fit on my car it has power steering and so I don’t know exactly which ones will fit
okay just checked and verified I have a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
 
Yes if you are going to put it together yourself you will need some reference books and tools. A factory manual for your '73 will be useful for not just the car, but engine and trans questions. And then a performance engine book of some sort, I like the factory published Chrysler Racing Manuals or Mopar Performance by SA Design.

As for tools you'll need a dial indicator for a variety things, but perhaps most importantly to dial in that aftermarket cam. You can buy a kit with a wheel, indicator and stuff from places like Summit. If your short block is presently together you can simply measure your piston to deck by bolting a home made stop, (a piece of bar stock with a hole for a head bolt and tapped hole for a adjustable bolt to use as stop), find TDC and just measure the piston to deck in line with the piston pin with an assortment of feeler gauges. Then you can calculate using the on-line program on the Summit site or Wallace to get your approximate compression ratio with the camber CC specs from the heads you expect to purchase so you can better order a cam that will work well.
Yes I will be doing this myself for the most part and I don’t want to mess it up but if I do I would rather it be on me and I’ll learn a lot doing it this way too
 
I'd probably go with stealth heads there cheap and have decent hp potential, as for cam I wouldn't go crazy with 1st round, (you'll probably do many upgrades to zero it in). Depending on rear gear and cr, don't need a ton of rear gear the OD trans has a very steep first gear 3.09 problem is second gears is 1.67 fairly large drop making choosing ideal rear gear tricky (probably 3.55 on a 27" tire, taller tire go with deeper gear). Around 225 to 230 cam on a 108/110 with around .500" would be the ones I'd be looking at.
With the OD ratio and 3.55’s rolling on 28’ tires, do you know what rpm that translates into @ 70 & 80 mph?
If you are down on compression ratio you can angle mill your cylinder heads to get the most CC off of the big side of the chamber.

Do not angle mill the heads!

Just mill the deck flat.


@PRH , the below, can you comment on the Stealth heads as cast vs the 440 source CNC ported versions vs your take on what can be done to them or not? Thanks.
A set of 440 source Stealth heads flow better than most ported stock heads which makes them a good, inexpensive option. I would have a set shipped to Porter Racing Heads for prep and have him send you a cam when the heads come home.
 
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