383 Stroker build

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So far it's been a little over 2 years of disassemble, blast, metal work, rust repair, panel replacement while at the same time working on drivetrain components. I had a good 69 original bore 383 block so that's the reason for that. It's been boiled and magnafluxed and is at the builders shop. I don't consider this forum rando's per se, yeah you'll get a variance of opinions for sure and a little weeding out is required but there's a lot of expertise in here I find and the Builder is not a Mopar specific guy he does a lot more LS stuff, of course, so that's why I figured it was worth asking here. Sorry, I'm more of a browser not a big poster and I was having issues trying to add people's quotes so I just tried to answer the questions all in one.Thermoquad? Really?
Yeah a thermoquad. Great throttle response on the street with the big kick of the secondaries. You'll make a bit more hp with a holley type carb, but you'll also carry a screwdriver in your glovebox.
 
Yeah a thermoquad. Great throttle response on the street with the big kick of the secondaries. You'll make a bit more hp with a holley type carb, but you'll also carry a screwdriver in your glovebox.
Best street carb I ever had was a TQ on my 71 340 Cuda and provided dang good fuel mileage in town. Don't know about highway because I never got out on the high way but would think it would have been good. Holley carbs never produced good mileage in town but had one car with a 289 that knocked down low 20's with a 600 DP. The car had 2.80 gears though. The Cuda though, was a car I should have kept!
 
Gonna need a dished/inverted dome piston to meet the CR target(something around 12-14cc).

Fast rate HFT cams can be problematic these days.
I think a HR would be a safer bet.
 
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440, TF240 heads, M1 single plane intake, 850 TQ carb, 605 hp.
Sorry misread

"850 TQ out of a NA 440 is impossible that's 1.91 lbs-ft per Cid, around 1.7 is the Max effort ceiling."
 
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440, TF240 heads, M1 single plane intake, 850 TQ carb, 605 hp.
lol Right from the Trick Flow brochure, you forgot to mention the roller cam in the package, even then I doubt it makes 605 hp.
 

It's nice to see a dyno operator suggest realistic numbers.
605 hp takes a bunch more than just buying from the catalog and assembling parts.

And I’m not calling my dyno stingy because it’s not.

On almost every engine I look at the observed power numbers and how much fuel it’s burning. If the two add it then it’s making what the dyno says it is.

I remember when NHRA burned the Dodge program with the stupid rpm limit.

I was reading an article on why the Dodge was struggling to even make the top half of a field. The Johnsons took one of their engines to Chris McGaha’s shop for him to evaluate it.

IIRC they only made one pull on it and McGaha looked at how much fuel it was burning and said it would be a bottom half engine. It just was not burning enough fuel. The engine was far enough below peak power that it didn’t make enough average power to be competitive.

And they scrapped the program.

BTW I got the boot from yellowbullet because I called out Nick Ferri on the rpm limit bullshit. You can’t criticize NHRA and a Pro Stock engine builder even when they are talking out their asses.

I got the axe when I pointed out (correctly I might add) that Ferri had at least two seasons to make a Dodge competitive and he could barely get in the top half of the field.

And that is the truth.

I think he’s in your neighborhood or maybe he’s in Utah now. He’s actually a nice guy and way smarter that me, but the cost of valve springs had ZERO to do with the cost of Pro Stock racing and Nick was jumping that part line like his life depended on it.

That rule was to make the Dodge and its cousin the Ford uncompetitive. And it worked.
 
Fishmens,
What makes you think all the parts on this engine were 'catalog' parts?
For those interested & actually wanting to learn, Mopar guru Steve Dulcich flow tested an 850 TQ & it flowed over 900 cfm....stock. The TQ on this engine was not stock.

img398.jpg
 
I'd like to know what parts the OP currently has vs what he was 'planning'. If the parts listed are already on hand, I'm with many of the folks here that have responded. If not, and there is room in the budget, I'd side with some better parts in key areas. Either way, my guess is the OP won't notice 30 - 40 hp either way in the 'seat of the pants' dyno. Now, if the Dart is a full boogie race car, then we need to have a totally different conversation. And without getting into a pissing contest with the Holley and AFB crowds, I like a well sorted TQ on the street.
 
I'd like to know what parts the OP currently has vs what he was 'planning'. If the parts listed are already on hand, I'm with many of the folks here that have responded. If not, and there is room in the budget, I'd side with some better parts in key areas. Either way, my guess is the OP won't notice 30 - 40 hp either way in the 'seat of the pants' dyno. Now, if the Dart is a full boogie race car, then we need to have a totally different conversation. And without getting into a pissing contest with the Holley and AFB crowds, I like a well sorted TQ on the street
The Builder has the block and is going to get started with the short block. He reassures me that we will be able to achieve 10.5ish with the listed components. I know some folks here have doubts with the 4.5cc Pistons... let's see what happens I guess. Once that is done we will make final decisions on the cam but definitely am going with those trick flow 240 heads and the RPM intake and an 850 Holley. Budget is already very stretched, I'm in Canada and this is going to cost me after a Dyno probably $18,000CAD.. around 13,000 USD. You're right, I will not be able to tell 30 or 40 horsepower on the butt dyno, last Dart was a 300 horse 360 and that was fun so 500hp or more is going to be amazing!
 
The Builder has the block and is going to get started with the short block. He reassures me that we will be able to achieve 10.5ish with the listed components. I know some folks here have doubts with the 4.5cc Pistons... let's see what happens I guess. Once that is done we will make final decisions on the cam but definitely am going with those trick flow 240 heads and the RPM intake and an 850 Holley. Budget is already very stretched, I'm in Canada and this is going to cost me after a Dyno probably $18,000CAD.. around 13,000 USD. You're right, I will not be able to tell 30 or 40 horsepower on the butt dyno, last Dart was a 300 horse 360 and that was fun so 500hp or more is going to be amazing!

Do you know how the builder is going to achieve 10.5:1 compression ratio? Deck the block? Clip the heads? And if your last Dart was 300 hp (at the crank or at the rear wheels?), you'll definitely notice the difference with your new mill. Hypothetically, if your builder puts the engine together, dynos it and it ends up being 450 hp but he tells you it is 500 hp, you'll still be smiling ear to ear as you sport that Dart around. Understanding your budget constraints, what I was suggesting is putting the engine together and living with whatever number you end up with. I wouldn't be chasing a specific hp. At this point, camshaft selection will be critical to get the most out of your other parts. While I have some ideas on that, I'll let the more experienced folks guide you there. Best wishes for reaching your goals. Mopar to ya!
 
You can do HP with a short stroke engine but they like rpm. If your car is on the heavy side, it's going to like torque. Short stroke engines can produce torque but it's usually at higher rpm's. It would be helpful to have more info on the build of the car in general....
4.150 is a short stroke?
 
For that power level, I'd use the 270 head. That's a rinky dink cam for 600 HP. That ain't gonna do it.
 
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