rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
After a couple months of working on these parts with a local vendor, the finished products arrived today. Though not perfect, I'm happy with them.
A few months ago, I downloaded a similar file for a dash bezel from a member here. I found a 3D print place local to me and I sent the file over to him for review. He sent me back a digital mock up and then agreed to make a test print. I mean no disrespect here but unfortunately that file did not work for me. I believe the member actually created the file from scratch with software which I've learned is not the best way to go about reproducing an existing part. The original bezel has a lot of intricacies that you may not notice until you start reverse-engineering it. Once I realized the file would need more work than it was worth the decision was made to 3D scan my already modified original.
This ended up breaking when I installed it because it was weakened from cutting the center out of it.
Now in defense of the member who made the file, he may not have had access to a 3D scanner so creating the form in the software would have basically been the only way to get it done. I've tried to do create stuff in Fusion 360 myself and I found it non-intuitive and clumsy so I will give him credit for getting that far with it.
In any event, my printer guy scanned my original bezel and frankly, it was rough. The basic form was there but the details were getting lost and the mounting screw holes had to be located in the piece which turned out to be problematic. This vendor does not know how to work with absolute measurements (he deals with more 'art' clients than auto/industrial types) which really bogged the process down. I'd take the test print home and install it and then figure out what needed to be done to make it work. Based on my findings, I'd go back to the studio and he would skosh the form over, run a new print and pray it worked. There was also no real reference point on the part to measure accurately from so locating something was a guess at best. Not a good way to go about this when something has to be exact. We went through several more rounds of test prints none of which worked 100%.
After the 5th or 6th round, I started getting frustrated with the process. I think he could sense I was getting annoyed and he offered to re-scan the part again in "higher resolution". I'm not sure if he could see it on my face but in my head I was going "Dude, WTF! Why TF didn't you just do that at first!!" I didn't even know there was an option to do that. I had to stop myself from strangling this guy since I had just wasted almost two months going back and forth with a file that was never going to work. Thankfully he was not charging me for all the rounds of test prints - he liked the project and it didn't really cost him anything since he was using scrap to make them. Frankly though, it would have been nice to do it correctly from the start as my time is worth something. After the re-scan, it was basically perfect. It fit correctly without having to move the mounting holes and the details were way better. That file is basically what you see here.
Close up of the trim detail. Note the recess of the top screw hole like the original.
The next steps with the dash bezel is some finishing to remove some imperfections and then chrome paint for the trim. My hope is that does not ruin it. I will try it out on one of the test prints first and see how it goes. If I'm struggling with it I might try to find an alternative method. Someone in another thread suggested using chrome nail polish because of the chemical properties. Vacuum plating would obviously be the best but that'd likely cost more than I've got in it already. You can see my first attempt at chrome paint in the pic of the modified original -meh.
Here's one of the imperfections that need to be smoothed over. The printer guy said he uses 220 grit for stuff like this but that seems too harsh. I'll work on the backside first with 400 grit to see what happens.
This is the backside. I'll smooth out some of the 'casting flash' as practice for the outward facing side but it's not really needed. Note the smaller holes for the various indicator lights, light switch and a shift light. The smaller gauges are 2 1/16" diameter and the larger ones are 3 3/8". The back of the bezel sits flush with the dash frame.
The arm rest base covers were comparatively easy since after going through so many iterations of the bezel he finally figured out how I operate. I had these made because I have a roll bar and the arm rest pads interfere with it. I didn't want to leave the base uncovered so I came up with the idea of making a flat cover for them that still clears the down bar. My main requirement with these was that the underside needed be the reverse of the contours of the outward-facing side because the cover would never sit flat otherwise. It's wild that someone sat there and designed all these details into this thing, it's like a hidden work of art. I guess that's where the scanner really shines though as it would be really time consuming and nearly impossible to get these subtleties correct by creating it in software. Plus, once the scanner creates the form, you can use the software to make a reverse of the shapes and it's basically done.
You can see the underside profile and how it follows the contours of the base. I didn't intend for it to overhang the edges like it does - the printer guy did that. Not sure if I want thst or not. It'd be a bit of work to remove those though so I[ll probably leave it alone.
These arm rest base covers needed to be sort of robust. The original base is relatively thin (and brittle) '70s plastic that I didn't want snapping on me when pulling the door closed. The printer guy did an OK job with it and it does fit nicely. I'm unsure how I'm going attach the cover to the base yet but it'll probably be small screws at various places. I'm pretty certain glue would not work. Also, some of the edges of the cover are kinda pointy and sharp and the face of it has an imperfection from the printing so they will require some finishing work. No biggie though, they do not need to be "show quality".
Backside of the arm rest base cover. The top edge of the cover acts like a support for the door pull.
As I've alluded in another post, I may look into selling prints of the dash bezel if there is interest. I will be honest, I'm not planning on sharing the file. I did this project for myself and I put a lot of time, effort and money into it with no intention of making a profit from it. There are similar molded ABS plastic bezels available from various vendors but IMO they are terrible and cost way too much for how crappy they are. I've wanted to improve on that idea for a few years now and I'm stoked to finally have that in my hands. Mine fits a niche between factory original and all-out race car. It's very light and installs like the original so it's relatively easy to work with. Compare it to an ABS one below and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Ever see a $280 P.O.S.?
In regards to the file to create the part - I currently have the only one in existence. However, once the file is out there to download, anyone can use it which does not sit well with me. Call me selfish or whatever but that's where I stand. I got that idea from the printer guy who does this for a living so it's not unreasonable. Sure, I can ask for payment before releasing the file to someone but even if I do that it will eventually find it's way into someone's hands that will try to make money off it. Yes, I started out with someone else's file from here but ended up not using it. Again, I had no intention of using it to make a profit. I'm thankful that file was available but I've had this particular idea in my head for some time and was going to get it done with or without someone else's file. The final printed part is 100% my doing so it's a moot point anyway.
I may get other things made as the need arises. The process was a little tedious but overall it was not too hard. They guy I used seemed to like what I was doing and treated me OK. He could have charged me for all the edits and test prints but he didn't. I've referred other people to him so it wasn't a one-sided deal either. The only sort of negative thing I'd say is he does not have the capability to print larger pieces like the bezel which he has to send out. I think a lot of mom and pop 3D printing places are like that to some degree because the technology is still new and the larger format equipment is really expensive.
I can see a lot of this stuff coming in the future, especially for large format things. I just hope these printed parts hold up as long as the original parts did.
- Greg
A few months ago, I downloaded a similar file for a dash bezel from a member here. I found a 3D print place local to me and I sent the file over to him for review. He sent me back a digital mock up and then agreed to make a test print. I mean no disrespect here but unfortunately that file did not work for me. I believe the member actually created the file from scratch with software which I've learned is not the best way to go about reproducing an existing part. The original bezel has a lot of intricacies that you may not notice until you start reverse-engineering it. Once I realized the file would need more work than it was worth the decision was made to 3D scan my already modified original.
This ended up breaking when I installed it because it was weakened from cutting the center out of it.
Now in defense of the member who made the file, he may not have had access to a 3D scanner so creating the form in the software would have basically been the only way to get it done. I've tried to do create stuff in Fusion 360 myself and I found it non-intuitive and clumsy so I will give him credit for getting that far with it.
In any event, my printer guy scanned my original bezel and frankly, it was rough. The basic form was there but the details were getting lost and the mounting screw holes had to be located in the piece which turned out to be problematic. This vendor does not know how to work with absolute measurements (he deals with more 'art' clients than auto/industrial types) which really bogged the process down. I'd take the test print home and install it and then figure out what needed to be done to make it work. Based on my findings, I'd go back to the studio and he would skosh the form over, run a new print and pray it worked. There was also no real reference point on the part to measure accurately from so locating something was a guess at best. Not a good way to go about this when something has to be exact. We went through several more rounds of test prints none of which worked 100%.
After the 5th or 6th round, I started getting frustrated with the process. I think he could sense I was getting annoyed and he offered to re-scan the part again in "higher resolution". I'm not sure if he could see it on my face but in my head I was going "Dude, WTF! Why TF didn't you just do that at first!!" I didn't even know there was an option to do that. I had to stop myself from strangling this guy since I had just wasted almost two months going back and forth with a file that was never going to work. Thankfully he was not charging me for all the rounds of test prints - he liked the project and it didn't really cost him anything since he was using scrap to make them. Frankly though, it would have been nice to do it correctly from the start as my time is worth something. After the re-scan, it was basically perfect. It fit correctly without having to move the mounting holes and the details were way better. That file is basically what you see here.
Close up of the trim detail. Note the recess of the top screw hole like the original.
The next steps with the dash bezel is some finishing to remove some imperfections and then chrome paint for the trim. My hope is that does not ruin it. I will try it out on one of the test prints first and see how it goes. If I'm struggling with it I might try to find an alternative method. Someone in another thread suggested using chrome nail polish because of the chemical properties. Vacuum plating would obviously be the best but that'd likely cost more than I've got in it already. You can see my first attempt at chrome paint in the pic of the modified original -meh.
Here's one of the imperfections that need to be smoothed over. The printer guy said he uses 220 grit for stuff like this but that seems too harsh. I'll work on the backside first with 400 grit to see what happens.
This is the backside. I'll smooth out some of the 'casting flash' as practice for the outward facing side but it's not really needed. Note the smaller holes for the various indicator lights, light switch and a shift light. The smaller gauges are 2 1/16" diameter and the larger ones are 3 3/8". The back of the bezel sits flush with the dash frame.
The arm rest base covers were comparatively easy since after going through so many iterations of the bezel he finally figured out how I operate. I had these made because I have a roll bar and the arm rest pads interfere with it. I didn't want to leave the base uncovered so I came up with the idea of making a flat cover for them that still clears the down bar. My main requirement with these was that the underside needed be the reverse of the contours of the outward-facing side because the cover would never sit flat otherwise. It's wild that someone sat there and designed all these details into this thing, it's like a hidden work of art. I guess that's where the scanner really shines though as it would be really time consuming and nearly impossible to get these subtleties correct by creating it in software. Plus, once the scanner creates the form, you can use the software to make a reverse of the shapes and it's basically done.
You can see the underside profile and how it follows the contours of the base. I didn't intend for it to overhang the edges like it does - the printer guy did that. Not sure if I want thst or not. It'd be a bit of work to remove those though so I[ll probably leave it alone.
These arm rest base covers needed to be sort of robust. The original base is relatively thin (and brittle) '70s plastic that I didn't want snapping on me when pulling the door closed. The printer guy did an OK job with it and it does fit nicely. I'm unsure how I'm going attach the cover to the base yet but it'll probably be small screws at various places. I'm pretty certain glue would not work. Also, some of the edges of the cover are kinda pointy and sharp and the face of it has an imperfection from the printing so they will require some finishing work. No biggie though, they do not need to be "show quality".
Backside of the arm rest base cover. The top edge of the cover acts like a support for the door pull.
As I've alluded in another post, I may look into selling prints of the dash bezel if there is interest. I will be honest, I'm not planning on sharing the file. I did this project for myself and I put a lot of time, effort and money into it with no intention of making a profit from it. There are similar molded ABS plastic bezels available from various vendors but IMO they are terrible and cost way too much for how crappy they are. I've wanted to improve on that idea for a few years now and I'm stoked to finally have that in my hands. Mine fits a niche between factory original and all-out race car. It's very light and installs like the original so it's relatively easy to work with. Compare it to an ABS one below and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Ever see a $280 P.O.S.?
In regards to the file to create the part - I currently have the only one in existence. However, once the file is out there to download, anyone can use it which does not sit well with me. Call me selfish or whatever but that's where I stand. I got that idea from the printer guy who does this for a living so it's not unreasonable. Sure, I can ask for payment before releasing the file to someone but even if I do that it will eventually find it's way into someone's hands that will try to make money off it. Yes, I started out with someone else's file from here but ended up not using it. Again, I had no intention of using it to make a profit. I'm thankful that file was available but I've had this particular idea in my head for some time and was going to get it done with or without someone else's file. The final printed part is 100% my doing so it's a moot point anyway.
I may get other things made as the need arises. The process was a little tedious but overall it was not too hard. They guy I used seemed to like what I was doing and treated me OK. He could have charged me for all the edits and test prints but he didn't. I've referred other people to him so it wasn't a one-sided deal either. The only sort of negative thing I'd say is he does not have the capability to print larger pieces like the bezel which he has to send out. I think a lot of mom and pop 3D printing places are like that to some degree because the technology is still new and the larger format equipment is really expensive.
I can see a lot of this stuff coming in the future, especially for large format things. I just hope these printed parts hold up as long as the original parts did.
- Greg
