3D printed tooling

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Cuda416

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Something I've seen elsewhere but don't recall seeing mentioned around here is using 3D printers to make tooling such as press dies, jigs etc. There are lots of YT vides on using them to create simple sheetmetal parts, and actually some pretty impressive "moving" dies.

A good example of using simple press dies is linked here
Sublime Lime 70 Challenger R/T SE

Has anyone here done any this, and if so, what did you do?
 
Not done any of it but have also seen some very impressive tooling machined in aluminium on benchtop 3d cnc routers. I looked into it for a project I wanted to do for my Lambretta scooter, using a cheap handheld 3d scanner to capture a shape e.g. a section of trim or body work, cleaning it up in a package like Fusion 360 and setting it up as a machining file and then mill it out on the router.
 
Not done any of it but have also seen some very impressive tooling machined in aluminium on benchtop 3d cnc routers. I looked into it for a project I wanted to do for my Lambretta scooter, using a cheap handheld 3d scanner to capture a shape e.g. a section of trim or body work, cleaning it up in a package like Fusion 360 and setting it up as a machining file and then mill it out on the router.

Yeah that works too. I've still got to finish the controller for my CNC machine but for now I'm just using my 3D printer for stuff and hoping to see what folks are doing with them other than making parts.
 
Have you been 3d printing long? I was amazed at some of the materials available to print with now, ABS, Carbon fibre, the technology is evolving so quickly.
 
Have you been 3d printing long? I was amazed at some of the materials available to print with now, ABS, Carbon fibre, the technology is evolving so quickly.

Yeah i built my first printer from scratch around 2015, then built an upgrade, then cloned a Prusa Mk2, then bought a Mk3 and now mk4. I've not bothered with the more specialized materials yet but I'm not worried about them.

The purpose of this thread is to just see what use cases people have come up with wrt to tooling etc. ABS was one of the first things I printed with, then PETG, then realized PLA was much easier lol. Been looking at some of the CF filled Nylon (PA-6 cf etc) but damn they are expensive and I'm a cheap ***. lol

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I am going to be trying out 3d printed tooling to see if I can make a metal cover for my voltage regulators to disguise them as stock pieces.
 
Yeah i built my first printer from scratch around 2015, then built an upgrade, then cloned a Prusa Mk2, then bought a Mk3 and now mk4. I've not bothered with the more specialized materials yet but I'm not worried about them.

The purpose of this thread is to just see what use cases people have come up with wrt to tooling etc. ABS was one of the first things I printed with, then PETG, then realized PLA was much easier lol. Been looking at some of the CF filled Nylon (PA-6 cf etc) but damn they are expensive and I'm a cheap ***. lol

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You’ve definitely got the bug! I used to be a model maker it was a bit of a ini revolution back in the late 90s when the first SLA machines turned up, one of the companies I freelanced for invested in one and a MCP vacuum casting machine they were huge and cost a fortune, we used to produce headlamp prototypes and limited run medical devices. Now you can (if you have the ability like you do) build your own machine for your desktop. It’s amazing.
 
You’ve definitely got the bug! I used to be a model maker it was a bit of a ini revolution back in the late 90s when the first SLA machines turned up, one of the companies I freelanced for invested in one and a MCP vacuum casting machine they were huge and cost a fortune, we used to produce headlamp prototypes and limited run medical devices. Now you can (if you have the ability like you do) build your own machine for your desktop. It’s amazing.

That's awesome. I used to see the guys making molds and forms from wood etc when modeling ducting for under hood intake systems etc. it was summer job I had during my college years, flow testing catalytic converters for big diesels. It was always cool watching them do there thing.
 
That's awesome. I used to see the guys making molds and forms from wood etc when modeling ducting for under hood intake systems etc. it was summer job I had during my college years, flow testing catalytic converters for big diesels. It was always cool watching them do there thing.
Proper old fashioned pattern making in Jellutong wood, no filler no mistakes, a lost trade. I did a small amount of that using modern synthetic equivalents, they meant you could get away with slapping filler everywhere to fix any errors, much more forgiving but not as beautiful as a proper wooden form.
 
I did FSAE back in college and we used MDF and a wood router to make our bucks for some of the composite parts. I have an idea for an intake setup I'd like to do, but never thought about trying to make a buck for it till now. Realistically it's probably more of a simple sheet metal thing, but I don't really have a lot of skills or tools for either. I do have a 3D scanner though, so maybe one of these days I need to scan my engine bay and hood and see about modeling something up.
 
I did FSAE back in college and we used MDF and a wood router to make our bucks for some of the composite parts. I have an idea for an intake setup I'd like to do, but never thought about trying to make a buck for it till now. Realistically it's probably more of a simple sheet metal thing, but I don't really have a lot of skills or tools for either. I do have a 3D scanner though, so maybe one of these days I need to scan my engine bay and hood and see about modeling something up.
I've been eyeballing scanners, which one do you have and would you buy it again?
 
I've got an Einstar I bought on a Black Friday sale. I had been eyeing one for quite some time and watched several reviews. Making for Motorsport and SuperFastMatt on Youtube have both done some reviews and demos of different scanners over the years. The main thing that drew me to the Einstar was the software at the time. Not that I don't still have my frustrations with it, but everything I had heard was that even if it was annoying to deal with, it was still noticeably better than the alternatives. I think that gap has closed in recent years, but I've never used any other software myself to compare.

As far as whether I'd buy one again, that's tough. Some of it boils down more to the fact that I really just don't use it that often. It was a neat tool I was interested in getting and thought I would use more, but realistically it sits on a shelf more than not. I just haven't found as many use cases for it on the stuff I do, but I'm also just a hobbyist and not constantly trying to make or reverse engineer parts. The other issue I've found is more what you do after the scan. I can get some really neat looking stuff that seems like it would be super handy, but actually importing it into CAD to do any kind of modeling with or around is painful. The biggest issue I have is just the lack of easily defined axes. It makes it really hard to position a scan in a model in such a way as to build parts around it. And it's not really surfaces, more just points, so it's equally difficult to measure anything from a scan within CAD at least. There is some inspection software out there like GOM Inspect (now Zeiss inspect I believe) that will effectively average out surfaces to let you take measurements. I tried that once to see if I could pull suspension points from one of my cars.

So yeah, I think it really comes down to what you want to use it for. I have not had great luck scanning small objects with it, even with the "small" mode setting on the software. I still can't figure out what that setting even does. However, it does scan small detail fairly well, so a workaround could be to put a small object on a larger object with details that you can track easily. The other thing I've learned is more just how to use it. Instinct tells me to move it closer to scan more detail, but that's not really how it works. You need to move it over a surface at a consistent distance and sweep more than pivot. It gets tricky if you want to measure something that is behind something else because you need to maintain a minimum distance. This was most noticeable when trying to scan my suspension. I think it would do great if I had an open wheeled car that didn't have a fender in the way, but when I had the limitation of only being able to hold the scanner as far away from the suspension as I could get before running into the fender, it made it a little more difficult. That said, it does scan well when you're working in its operating conditions. I think a lot of it just comes down to me learning how to use a scanner more than the scanner's fault. I think I probably had unrealistic expectations for how to use it.

I know that sounds like a lot of doom and gloom after reading over it, but in the end it was a more of a "would I buy a 3D scanner again period" vs "would I buy this one". The scanner itself is less of the equation to me than the software and post processing. The software has gotten updates over the years to add some new features like an undo button and some model manipulation that has made it better. To me though it's still the difference between something like Blender and SolidWorks. Both make "3D models", but they are very different at the core of how those models are made. I compare Blender to something more like a 3D photograph. It looks like a thing and has depth, but it's not solid like a CAD model that you can manipulate and cut and measure and stuff. There is software that will convert the two, but it's more expensive than the scanner itself. I think I have some pictures of scans I've taken around here though. I'll see if I can find and post some.
 
Wow, thanks for the in depth reply.

I've used a cheaper unit and yeah, consistent distance and sweeping motions seemed to work best. I had thought of using one to do similar things, scan engine bays, parts, etc so I could have a basis for designing things to fit. I've seen people do it and typically what they will do is find two spots on the scanned item they can take good measurements between, like two points or bolt heads etc, then making sure they get those areas exceptionally well scanned. Once it's in whatever CAD you're using you can scale it using those points. I imaging orientation might be done the same. Points and distance to the XY plane for example.
 
Here's a couple of quick pictures of scans I did recently. One for the interior when I was working up an idea for a center console and another for the rear end of the car when I was thinking about a spoiler setup:

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It doesn't quite do it justice to see as a flat image compared to the actual point cloud you can move around in, but it gives you an idea of the kind of detail you can get and some of the places it struggles. Looking down into the space between the seats and tunnel for instance was pretty tricky. Scanners just don't really like looking down narrow openings or down into deep stuff. You have to take your time, though at the same time if you scan too much the files get too big, so kind of a catch 22 there. You can do multiple smaller scans and stitch them together though. All of this was done without tracking dots or any kind of coating or spray, which is certainly a bonus. I'm sure they would be even better/easier if I used something. The interior was easier because there is enough detail going on for it to track. The back end was pretty tough since you have large spans with little change in profile, but if you are patient and move around the right way you can fill in the gaps.

These actually import directly into CAD at the correct scale, at least in the work I've done with them so far. They just can be hard to line stuff up with since they tend to import at random angles. The software does seem to try to pick the largest "plane" for some kind of base, but it really comes down to what you are scanning. If you scanned something on a flat surface I think it would be easier because then you might have at least one good flat plane to work with. These scans are randomly in space, so no easy reference for them.

The other problem I had is just the computer requirements. Only my desktop has the horsepower to run things, but it's annoying to unhook it all and drag it somewhere to do larger scans only to move it back. I ended up setting up a second computer in my garage as a more permanent installation and then remoting back to my desktop from it. That actually seems to work quite well as I can share the scanner over the network as if it was plugged into the desktop directly. Makes scanning car stuff way easier because all I need to do it take the scanner out there and hook it up.
 
That's pretty good detail for no dots. The scanner I borrowed was the creality ferret. It was "OK" but I didn't have a lot of time to learn the nuances and had to give it back. I'd like to try one that has blue light scanning at some point.

I actually made and used a probe for one of my CNC machines years ago and wrote a macro to record the points in space to make the point cloud, then turned it into mesh in blender to export STL files for printing. Pain in the *** but it worked. Fun times lol.
 

I’ve made a bunch of molds for carbon fiber parts. Works pretty well. I print in PETG. Which if the dies are made well and you print 100% infill should take a beating while stamping sheet metal.
 
That's pretty good detail for no dots. The scanner I borrowed was the creality ferret. It was "OK" but I didn't have a lot of time to learn the nuances and had to give it back. I'd like to try one that has blue light scanning at some point.

I actually made and used a probe for one of my CNC machines years ago and wrote a macro to record the points in space to make the point cloud, then turned it into mesh in blender to export STL files for printing. Pain in the *** but it worked. Fun times lol.

I can actually do "texture" scanning with the Einstar as well, which is basically just pictures and color. I tend to leave it off as I don't really care about the visuals of my models as much as the content. If I was scanning stuff to try to import it into a game engine or something I think it would be a lot more useful, but for component design I haven't really needed it. I guess it might make it easier if you wanted to measure between two features that were flat in nature, but had different colorings, like maybe the distance between text on a sign for instance.
 
I don’t know what software programmes any of you have experience of, but it’s worth knowing that Autodesk Fusion 360 has a free version for private users, it’s fully functional, just legally limited to non enterprise users.
It has very good 3d modelling and cad tools, but really excels with the manufacturing side for setting up for cnc milling, 3d printing, folded metal etc. Definitely worth having a look at if you’re looking for software.
 
I’m a model maker and we makes lots of brake press dies from 3d prints. Welding fixtures, actual injection molds, tube bender tooling, lots of great uses for 3d printed tools. I can’t really share any of it due to confidentiality. Here’s a 3d printed tube bending die set.

 
I’m a model maker and we makes lots of brake press dies from 3d prints. Welding fixtures, actual injection molds, tube bender tooling, lots of great uses for 3d printed tools. I can’t really share any of it due to confidentiality. Here’s a 3d printed tube bending die set.



I have no idea what you guys are talking about , and no knowledge of 3 d printers at all , could a couple of small lathe gears be 3 d printed in metal , ''cast or otherwise /
they both have a few stripped teeth < would that be possible to get around for a good gear??
 
I have no idea what you guys are talking about , and no knowledge of 3 d printers at all , could a couple of small lathe gears be 3 d printed in metal , ''cast or otherwise /
they both have a few stripped teeth < would that be possible to get around for a good gear??
Yes, its called 'lost pla' which is like 'lost wax' casting. Print tbe part using pla then use that part to create a casting mold . When the molten metals basically evaporates the plastic out and the metal takes its place.

Here's a quick example

 
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