3g Hemi Rebuild Guide?

[03ramit1]

Why pull the heads to change the cam?

because the charger has MDS. and he probably swapped out the lifters to remove it. (lifters are under the head) or to swap out the valve springs. as they must be changed for just about all cam swaps. it can be done with the head on the motor, but without the correct spring compressor tool its just about impossable. i pull them every time because i dont want to worry about loosing a valve spring keeper, or dropping a valve into the motor. to me its just easier.

 

[03ramit1]

why didnt you set the timing marks ont eh chain to the correct spot? even though it really dosent much matter. I just like to see things done right. on your next one save time. and leave the fuel rails on the intake, and just undo the fuel line. then you dont need to worry about the o-rings sealing again.

on a side note who did you get the strut covers from? they look familiar. a friend of mine did some just like that a while ago. that he probably sold on LXF

 

[myduster360]

it can be done with the head on the motor, but without the correct spring compressor tool its just about impossible.

Boy thats the truth.

I put a 6.1 cam in a friends 06 Charger a couple of months ago and have yet to get all the valve springs on.

We kept the MDS lifters but you absolutley need a special valve spring compressor to have any hope of completing the job with the heads on.

Tip: Its a fairly quick job to pull the bumper cover and radiator/ac/fan module off to gain significant working room on a LX.

 

[hemidup]

I was curious if the factory windage tray can be used with the Milodon A/B/E Pan and dip stick, or if you need to order a new Milodon Windage tray... Anybody??

I couldn't tell you about that combo, it should, however I know for a fact that a stock windage tray will work with the Moroso.

 

[03ramit1]

Tip: Its a fairly quick job to pull the bumper cover and radiator/ac/fan module off to gain significant working room on a LX.

yeah once the splash shield is off, it's only 4 10mm bolts and a few of the push pin locks and it's off. I wouldn't even try with it on. The radiator comes out from the bottom easy enough by unplugging the fan and undoing the 4 13mm bolts holding the core support. Did you know that long tubes can be bolted to the heads out of the car and dropped down in place. It's the easyist way to do them. I have a huge list of tricks for the lx cars to do a cam swap. Another that comes to mind is pulling the cover where the pcm is and fishing a 1/4 in drive with a swivle and a deep 8mm down there to remove the valve cover bolts. Works great on the ones close to the strut towers too.

 

[joeboy]

I couldn't tell you about that combo, it should, however I know for a fact that a stock windage tray will work with the Moroso.

Found it online, it should fit... I will update when my pan arrives in a few weeks... Its backordered...

JOE

 

[joeboy]

Boy thats the truth.

I put a 6.1 cam in a friends 06 Charger a couple of months ago and have yet to get all the valve springs on.

We kept the MDS lifters but you absolutley need a special valve spring compressor to have any hope of completing the job with the heads on.

Tip: Its a fairly quick job to pull the bumper cover and radiator/ac/fan module off to gain significant working room on a LX.

I used this one... (CHECK POST #44)http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=59806&page=3

Found it online, for sale on the LX forum (some member sells them for $75). It isn't pretty, actually quite ugly... and I had to grind on it a bit to get it to fit well in the head... BUT IT WORKED AWESOME

JOE

 

[03ramit1]

buying the tool is possible. The correct miller tool is like $300 something. And you still run the risk of a dropped valve or lost keeper. I have a C clamp style compressor that works great, and no worrys about dropping a valve for me and a keeper will just end up on the floor, not down in themotor. It's my preferred way to do it. Just a diffrence of opinion I guess. I have seen tools that people have made and I bet they do work well. Just not the way I prefer.

 

[crazybarracuda]

why didnt you set the timing marks ont eh chain to the correct spot? even though it really dosent much matter. I just like to see things done right. on your next one save time. and leave the fuel rails on the intake, and just undo the fuel line. then you dont need to worry about the o-rings sealing again.

on a side note who did you get the strut covers from? they look familiar. a friend of mine did some just like that a while ago. that he probably sold on LXF

funny you mention it. the picture was taken while we were disassembling the front end of the motor and that is the how it was from the factory

The strut covers i just sanded and airbrushed myself, the radiator covers were painted to match as well but after some issues with the clear i used on them i ended up sanding them down and just painting them black.

 

[crazybarracuda]

because the charger has MDS. and he probably swapped out the lifters to remove it. (lifters are under the head) or to swap out the valve springs. as they must be changed for just about all cam swaps. it can be done with the head on the motor, but without the correct spring compressor tool its just about impossable. i pull them every time because i dont want to worry about loosing a valve spring keeper, or dropping a valve into the motor. to me its just easier.

the lifters are the same in the motor. i swapped the cam to a franks racing sidewinder and they recommended using 6.1L valve springs and also replacing the pushrods. my brother is a former chrysler tech and he said its just easier to pull the heads and do the spring swap on the bench. since the kit i bought had new head bolts and gaskets it wasnt really that much work to do. i was very glad we pulled them since we dropped a valve spring keeper into the head a few times on the bench since we did it during the winter in my unheated garage.

 

[03ramit1]

so you used the stock lifters or are you saying there is no diffrence for MDS vs nonMDS. Because there is a huge diffrence. If you reused the lifter then no big deal. I have done tons of swaps without changing them. Most guys just use the diablo to turn off the MDS

 

[crazybarracuda]

so you used the stock lifters or are you saying there is no diffrence for MDS vs nonMDS. Because there is a huge diffrence. If you reused the lifter then no big deal. I have done tons of swaps without changing them. Most guys just use the diablo to turn off the MDS

the car is my daily driver and its almost all highway and so i chose to keep the MDS system in working order. I probably could get around the same mileage if i was easy on the pedal but i never am.

This summer I am replacing the wifes vehicle so I am going to be driving her old car year round and have my charger as a fun car. once that happens i want to pull the motor, do a full rebuild on it, stroke it out to a 392 and put on some nice heads & headers with a very free flowing exhaust.

 

[Map63Vette]

So has anyone used OEM replacement TTY bolts for their build? I was looking up prices for ARP stuff since I liked the idea of being able to reuse them, but for rod, mains, and heads it was going to be $500-600, that's more than I paid for the engine, lol. I've found new OEM head bolts around for anywhere from $35-50 for a full set and I called the dealer about rod bolts since I haven't managed to find them anywhere else and then quoted around $50. I have yet to find replacement main bolts though, the dealer didn't have a listing for them. I think my current plan is to basically just put my engine back together stock and save up money to really build it up later when I can do everything at once. That being said, does anyone know where I can find stock OEM replacement main bolts and prices for them? The ARPs are around $100 and change for rods and $150 for mains, so I may consider that if I don't have any other choice, but the head stud kit is $300 and just not worth it to me for what I'm doing right now.

 

[joeboy]

try www.moparsupercenter.com

I got all the bolts and stuff for my cam swap there... really good prices.

you gotta really loo all over the place for stuff, not everything shows up under the 5.7/6.1 hemi swap tab... so try the search function, or click in stuff similar, because there is a "suggested parts" link frequently...

JOE

 

[03ramit1]

look up hensen motorsports. And contact Art in the parts department. He can get you the factory bolts you need. They are out of tx. He will get you all fixed up.