400-470 stroker build--results

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This makes for a great whoop *** street engine.

"LIKE!"
 
out of curosity, what rocker arm set up are u running on this?--------thanks, bob:coffee2::coffee2:
Not built yet but making plans for a good salvage 400 I just bought.

440 Source 470 bottom end, CNC stealth heads with beehive springs
and PRW stainless steel roller rockers.

Toying with this solid/hydraulic option but originally planned to use the
Lunati #60312 hydraulic roller.

This is not a track engine - street only.

PRWRollerRockers_zps30816cab.jpg
 
So far it is taking it just fine--I have over 60 dyno pulls on it. The crank was worked extensively. Welded up undercuts/counterweights reduced .350"/profiled/smoothed/offset ground/balanced etc..... Lots of work. J.Rob

All we ever used to do to "fit" stock Forged 440 Cranks into 400 Blocks back in the 80's was "this" in the photo....chamfer the counterweights.....easy peazy...takes about 1/2 hour with the angle grinder(wear good boots so ya don't zip toe).....then Polish....because the only actual interference with the Block is over by the Main Web....
and
then we'd take a 1/2" carbide to touch up the mainweb and block bank ends where the counterweight was a little tall.
This is a 451 version....but works the same for the 3.900 offset grind.

I never did figure out why Guys actually ground down the entire Counterweight to make them fit ??...and yes the stock Forged 1053 Cranks work fine.....and seemed to protect against #4 Main Cap walk by their ability to "winde" and "UN-winde" down their length as opposed to Today's 4340 " NON-Twist" Cranks ?

GREAT JOB at the Challenge !!

Bob @ rmp Racing Engines
100_13981.jpg
 
All we ever used to do to "fit" stock Forged 440 Cranks into 400 Blocks back in the 80's was "this" in the photo....chamfer the counterweights.....easy peazy...takes about 1/2 hour with the angle grinder(wear good boots so ya don't zip toe).....then Polish....because the only actual interference with the Block is over by the Main Web....
and
then we'd take a 1/2" carbide to touch up the mainweb and block bank ends where the counterweight was a little tall.
This is a 451 version....but works the same for the 3.900 offset grind.

I never did figure out why Guys actually ground down the entire Counterweight to make them fit ??...and yes the stock Forged 1053 Cranks work fine.....and seemed to protect against #4 Main Cap walk by their ability to "winde" and "UN-winde" down their length as opposed to Today's 4340 " NON-Twist" Cranks ?

GREAT JOB at the Challenge !!

Bob @ rmp Racing Engines
100_13981.jpg

That is more intensive work than putting it in a large lathe and letting the cutter do the work. I have done the angle grinder thing--These forgings are tough and I didn't care for all the little nasty pricklys grinding creates. Nice job on that crank though. Thanks J.Rob
 
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