400 big block + my 71 Demon

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zac_F71

zac_F71

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What's involved with putting a BB in a A body? I have heard/read on here headers are about the hardest part- I could make them sure but what off the shelve parts work for the swap?

My Demon is a base car- no power options and fenderwell headers are not an option...
 
well i would do the hemi mod on the inner fender, passenger side. that will help. i think the low decks are harder to fit than RB motors due to exh port location, but it may be the other way around...
 
805moparkid said:
well i would do the hemi mod on the inner fender, passenger side. that will help. i think the low decks are harder to fit than RB motors due to exh port location, but it may be the other way around...
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Hemi mod? As in beat the inner fender? I heard the other way around RB is harder cause of the taller deck..



Suppose B body big block headers don't fit huh?

EDIT- From the other thread-
I see I plan on using a stock K for now as QA1 hasn't released their tubular one yet (same as CAP one..)..

I want to run stock front suspension, and Schumacher swap mounts, I'm not liking the Schumacher headers though.. I don't like how they don't go all the way back like a typical header. what primary/collector diameter's are they? Since their site don't say?

It likely don't matter as it will be a milder setup (9:1 with cleaned up/milled heads) with 3.23 8 3/4 and a 275/60 Nitto drag radial (28/11.50)
 
With Schumacher headers on an RB motor, access is tight on the passenger side - but the plugs are still accessible - no need to beat or cut anything. The deck height on a B motor is 3/4" less so access should be slightly better - at least with those headers.

Unless you're racing where every 10th counts, don't discount the Schumacher headers because they're not full length. Read this article and before weighing the pros and cons: http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ArticlePages/SmokinBarracuda.html
 

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if you arent going for big power the schumacher headers are a great option. tti makes a 1 3/4 full length that works pretty good. they arent great for big power either though. i used them on 2 a bodies. they work with power steering. tight fit but it works. some guys have had some luck beating up a pair of b body hedmans to work with the b motor. a cheap option. there are some other options too. its a bolt in, off the shelf swap with what is available these days. go for a new truck stock mini starter right off the bat. dont mess around with those big old starters. too tight with the headers and just suck up the heat. with the b motor most intakes can fit under a flat hood with some kind of air cleaner. you can find plenty of useful info on bigblockdart.com
 
zac_F71 said:
filter them down.. they fit 67-69 Dart w/ a 383 so it says
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Well, in theory then, yes. But, that's not to say you won't have clearance issues somewhere. See guys complain all the time about their headers built specifically for BB A-body's hitting somewhere.
 
jamesdart said:
if you arent going for big power the schumacher headers are a great option. tti makes a 1 3/4 full length that works pretty good. they arent great for big power either though. i used them on 2 a bodies. they work with power steering. tight fit but it works. some guys have had some luck beating up a pair of b body hedmans to work with the b motor. a cheap option. there are some other options too. its a bolt in, off the shelf swap with what is available these days. go for a new truck stock mini starter right off the bat. dont mess around with those big old starters. too tight with the headers and just suck up the heat. with the b motor most intakes can fit under a flat hood with some kind of air cleaner. you can find plenty of useful info on bigblockdart.com
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NICE! I am planning on "trying" the Summit $400 BB headers that I posted.. cheaper than either TTi or Sch. and come with 1 7/8" primaries - this isn't a balls out build - the motor runs (is/now was a derby back up motor) and the rotating assembly will be inspected and left if looks ok, just redo the top end to up the CR and add a nice Comp full cam kit

Already got the starter (stock style mini), my Demon has no power steering, no options at all so fitment "shouldn't" be to much trouble ("shouldn't" used loosely haha)
 
the problem with those headers, they most likely will not fit without giving them a beating with some kind of hammer. usually you will need to heat them up to get a nice clean dent. the ceramic coating is going to look like crap when done and get all rusty. if you want to try the cheap headers go bare, get them to fit, then have them coated. i cant say id want to spend 400$ on "cheap" headers. the flanges are usually thin and warp, thin tubing too. sometimes awful welds on the flanges that dont seal. at least if you go uncoated you can fix or modify them.
 
I agree on the uncoated (I wish they were) as for "cheap" Summit headers are nice.. I have the $129.95 SBF one's in my 83 Mustang and they bolted right in and fit great, but that has a tubular K member- have heard they need beating to fit a stock K member- just comes with the territory unless you make them and I'd rather not do that..
 
1970 and 1971 383 magnum manifolds fit if you trim the column back to the fire wall. 67 - 69 manifolds do not. the flange that hold the pipe is at a different angle. You can also use the 70 71 motor mount brackets with small block dodge pickup biscuits mounts. I have done several like this you only need to trim the K member for the Oil pump. the rest is bolt in parts from the correct cars. RB blocks do not fit this easy. The deck is to high. Steve
 
haha ask anyone. if you go cheap on the headers you will need a shoehorn, a tub of vaseline, a boom box, 2 six packs of beer, a pitman arm puller, and an ox with a harness to put them in and get them out. then good luck trying to change plugs, you will probably get 7 out of 8 ok. oh yeah it hits the starter a little bit, and the steering makes a clunk sound all the way to the left.......

really, go with headers that fit.
 
moparlover said:
haha ask anyone. if you go cheap on the headers you will need a shoehorn, a tub of vaseline, a boom box, 2 six packs of beer, a pitman arm puller, and an ox with a harness to put them in and get them out. then good luck trying to change plugs, you will probably get 7 out of 8 ok. oh yeah it hits the starter a little bit, and the steering makes a clunk sound all the way to the left.......

really, go with headers that fit.
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Probably will since I need the mounts from Schumacher anyway.. it's only money ahaha
 
the schumachers are the way to go, unless you are going to be looking for low 11s high 10s.
 
tti, something with bigger tubes. on my dart i am running the 2" tti but they were for an RB i had to move a couple tubes around to get them to work with the B block. things get funny with the typ of head you use. some heads have a raised exhaust port which will effect how the headers fit. i forget the details. there are quite a few aluminum heads out there now. tti also has a few different headers available since i was in the market.
 
Schumacher headers (which I use) have the easiest fit and works well even with power steering for street and light strip if you're not looking to squeeze every last 10th's from your car. TTI's 1 3/4" headers supposedly fits both B and RB engines, but only the B engines with power steering. TTI also make 1 3/4" and 2" that fit manual steering only. Although none of the above are cheap, I'd rather spend more on something I can use than half that price on something that I will have to beat to death with a hammer.
 
kerryike said:
Schumacher headers (which I use) have the easiest fit and works well even with power steering for street and light strip if you're not looking to squeeze every last 10th's from your car. TTI's 1 3/4" headers supposedly fits both B and RB engines, but only the B engines with power steering. TTI also make 1 3/4" and 2" that fit manual steering only. Although none of the above are cheap, I'd rather spend more on something I can use than half that price on something that I will have to beat to death with a hammer.
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I see ok I seen raw TTi 1 3/4" are $690 a bit on the expensive side but only $100 more than the Schumacher's and I like the TTi's better but that's just my opinion

I am going to try the Summit $134.95 1 3/4" long tubes first as I can always Ebay those if they don't fit..
 
I don't have any clearance issues in my 440 Demon! LOL!
 

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Use the shumacher (sp) swap mounts and there torque arm with tti headers.
It is possible to use cheapo headers. Big lock dart.com has a tech site that covers this with excellence.

The B block is easier to install by the way. I did it myself just recently. It was actually easy to do.
 
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