400 builds-anybody?? NON STROKER!

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I've always wanted to try the 440 piston route. With 400 rods, did the skirts clear the stock crank counterweights? Never was sure about that aspect of it. The stroker pistons probably have a trimmed skirt. Thanks for this post, love it!
Stock cast iron 452 with stock valves and bowl area just cleaned up. The pistons fit in like a glove.
Silv-O-Lite Cast Pistons 1276-040 they didn't need any modification they fit right in. The customer was on a budget and was able to find them on the extreme cheap since the previous guy was throwing them out. I would suggest using a 383 steel crank because it makes balancing easier. Basically it's like a bigger 383.Let me tell you he was happy with it. He surpassed the 440 hp and reved very well. Yes you can get light pistons and make more HP but for what he paid he was like I said happy. Glad I can help don't hesitate if you have more ???
 
Stock cast iron 452 with stock valves and bowl area just cleaned up. The pistons fit in like a glove.
Silv-O-Lite Cast Pistons 1276-040 Also used a .020 steel mopar headgasket to keep compression up and the cam is ground @ 112 for smoother idle which he wanted and made 16" of vacuum for breaks.
Great info! How much cam lift? Maybe get Ross pistons for the build. Nice to see the 400 makes good power without spending the money on a stroker kit.
 
I think it wouldn't be hard to come up with a combo, a trick flow top end on any 10.5:1 bb short block. The only difference running a stock stroke 383/400 is you gonna have to spin it higher than 451 plus engine. Small block guys are happy with 400 cid.
 
Great info! How much cam lift? Maybe get Ross pistons for the build. Nice to see the 400 makes good power without spending the money on a stroker kit.
  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268
  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226
  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494
  • LSA/ICL: 112/108
  • Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
  • RPM Range: 1400-5800
At that point if you would get custom pistons, (because with the exception of KB240 there are no 400 stock stroke pistons) and the would be lots of $$$ I would be cheaper to get a 440 steel crank ground down to 400 mains and counterweights cut down use 440 rods and 1.32 CH pistons that would be readily available. This makes a great combo. Torque is unbelievable. It all depends on how much $$$ you want to spend and how much power you want. Het I've done a 470" 400 that would pull trees down LOL!!!!!!!
 
Stock cast iron 452 with stock valves and bowl area just cleaned up. The pistons fit in like a glove.
Silv-O-Lite Cast Pistons 1276-040 they didn't need any modification they fit right in. The customer was on a budget and was able to find them on the extreme cheap since the previous guy was throwing them out. I would suggest using a 383 steel crank because it makes balancing easier. Basically it's like a bigger 383.Let me tell you he was happy with it. He surpassed the 440 hp and reved very well. Yes you can get light pistons and make more HP but for what he paid he was like I said happy. Glad I can help don't hesitate if you have more ???

Awesome! I like using long rods in 440's to reduce piston weight with proper compression height pistons, but the "B" engines always can use a compression boost by bringing the piston closer to the deck. Thanks for the info!!
 
  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268
  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226
  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494
  • LSA/ICL: 112/108
  • Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
  • RPM Range: 1400-5800
At that point if you would get custom pistons, (because with the exception of KB240 there are no 400 stock stroke pistons) and the would be lots of $$$ I would be cheaper to get a 440 steel crank ground down to 400 mains and counterweights cut down use 440 rods and 1.32 CH pistons that would be readily available. This makes a great combo. Torque is unbelievable. It all depends on how much $$$ you want to spend and how much power you want. Het I've done a 470" 400 that would pull trees down LOL!!!!!!!

On a side note: Diamond Pistons makes a sweet flat-top for *383* engines that utilize 6.768" 440 rods (must bush pin bores to .990", but you want that anyway to float the pins), and since it is a "shelf" item with a part number and engineering specs in place, I bet for a fee they would make some in 4.342"+your oversize (.020/.030/.040/.060"etc.). Might be worth a call to Diamond?
 
I've always wanted to try the 440 piston route. With 400 rods, did the skirts clear the stock crank counterweights? Never was sure about that aspect of it. The stroker pistons probably have a trimmed skirt. Thanks for this post, love it!
Did this years ago, 400 block, 400 rod low comp 440 piston. The cast Sealed Power piston with a cast crank has a bit of a clearance issue, due to the "square" edges of a cast crank. A steel crank doesn't have these "square" sides to the counter weights and should clear the skirt. In this build, budget was key, so cast it was and small trim to the piston skirt.
 
  • Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268
  • Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226
  • Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494
  • LSA/ICL: 112/108
  • Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
  • RPM Range: 1400-5800
At that point if you would get custom pistons, (because with the exception of KB240 there are no 400 stock stroke pistons) and the would be lots of $$$ I would be cheaper to get a 440 steel crank ground down to 400 mains and counterweights cut down use 440 rods and 1.32 CH pistons that would be readily available. This makes a great combo. Torque is unbelievable. It all depends on how much $$$ you want to spend and how much power you want. Het I've done a 470" 400 that would pull trees down LOL!!!!!!!
And incase you were wondering about a 451 well what can I say I was amazed by that engine. Easy to build and an excellent street motor. I got TF240 from 440 source and let me tell you that I got better than 1st class service from Kim and Brandon. Buy from them. They helped throughout the purchase. I tried a set of 440 source and they were great. I then got a set of TF to put onto my 451 and they were better performing heads but at the same time more than double the price when you factored in the pushrods, bolts , header mods needed. 451 pump gas 10.75 comp cam eddy perf intake and a comp XL285 cam. Just past 610hp and 625TQ very nice street motor with 12" vacuum. Revs like a small block and power of a really healthy big block.
Capture.JPG
 
Off "B" topic, but I built a cast-crank 469" stroked 440 (offset ground to 3.915") using 7.1" rods and ICON #824 pistons. I got the ICON's early on, when they were $450 a set and the 7.1" rods I got in a pile of parts cheap. The crank was NOS and I had bought it for $30 in 1991 from Chrysler. The crank shop charged me $200 to offset grind and polish the mains only. My balance guy was amazed when the whole shebang balanced almost perfectly out of the box, with neutral balance flexplate and balancer. No mallory metal needed and VERY minimal drilling on the counterweights to balance. He said MoPar factory balance (notoriously bad) was not that close, and I really could have just run it unbalanced. You get lucky sometimes with thrown-together combos! LOL
 
I think we have gotten way off track from the o.p question about non stroker built 400's. Lol.
 
Got a crank grinder, don’t have anyone nearby to cut the weights down or I’d do a 451. I have Manley .990 rods and 2 forged440 cranks. Don’t need to spend the money on 440source. But also got steel 383 cranks to just do the 400. Thanks for the info on Diamond.
 
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Basically the 440/400 are the same bore. So deciding which stroke to run 400-540 cid will determine where your powerband will be.
Trick flow topend offers 600-700 + hp. Going 400 you gonna need to spin it fairly high and gear it deep with a high stall. Where a 540 is gonna bring down to a more streetable package leaving 470 ish engines in between.
Even though a 400 is a decent size engine, but since you got to buy custom pistons anyways it hard not to justify putting in a 440 crank for the extra cost. Or just build a 440, now if buying an aftermarket crank its definitely hard not to justify building a 440 stroker to 500-540 cid since its the same cost.
 
Lol. I agree with you bighead 440, definitely gotta build out of the box for sure sometimes! Haha, that's usually more fun than the actual build.
 
Lol. I agree with you bighead 440, definitely gotta build out of the box for sure sometimes! Haha, that's usually more fun than the actual build.

That's why I can't understand why anyone runs crate motors in their personal hot rod. Back 15 years ago, I used a MoPar Performance crate 360 SHORTblock in a customer's build, and even then jerked the .508" cam for a Comp XE275HL! Added Eddy heads and a RPM manifold and it rocked, but I felt cheezy even using a prefab bottom end-LOL. :)
 
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I built a very mild 400 for my dart. Stock compression 73 400, worked 452 heads (bowls cleaned and other areas cleaned up), small Elgin cam (218/220 @.50, 444/466 lift, 112lsa), Weiand action plus dual plane intake, 1" spacer, and 750 street demon. It runs ok, but needs a better distributor BAD.
 
I built a 400 (non-stroker, not even bored oversize) kind of out of being a tightwad and also a stop-gap temporary engine for a '70 Challenger R/T I bought. I had a '77 Newport that I needed out of the way, so I pulled the whole front subframe/eng/trans and scrapped the rest. The engine was well maintained, with very little ridge in the bores, so I decided to reuse the pistons and not bore. I used some 906 heads I had used on a truck that I retired, and they were done-up with stainless standard sized valves and hardened seats, Crane single springs and a little bowl machining. I had them milled .060" and the intake side cut .072" so the intake would line up. I used a Comp Cams "Dual Energy" cam (DE275), which was supposed to be the hot ticket back then with iron HP exhaust manifolds. The tired 383 in the Chally had a DP4B intake, so I used it with a 750 Edelbrock that I had laying around. With just these mods and a 2500 stall 11" converter and 3.23 gears, it was a screamer. I loved it, it felt like a 440 or better, and it sounded really wicked with Hooker Competition Turbo mufflers and 2.5" pipes through stainless/aftermarket 2.5" dual outlet R/T tips. I wanted to do a Vanishing Point tribute car one day, with a 440, but alas, life happened and I never had time to really do that. A nice fellow saw the car and wanted to buy it, never having driven it or hearing it run, but his price was right and I let it go. He has many MoPars (some big block strokers, too) and after he drove it home, he was very impressed and wanted details on the "smogger 400" build. They are unappreciated for sure, with lots of potential if you give them what engines want!!
I built a 400 (non-stroker, not even bored oversize) kind of out of being a tightwad and also a stop-gap temporary engine for a '70 Challenger R/T I bought. I had a '77 Newport that I needed out of the way, so I pulled the whole front subframe/eng/trans and scrapped the rest. The engine was well maintained, with very little ridge in the bores, so I decided to reuse the pistons and not bore. I used some 906 heads I had used on a truck that I retired, and they were done-up with stainless standard sized valves and hardened seats, Crane single springs and a little bowl machining. I had them milled .060" and the intake side cut .072" so the intake would line up. I used a Comp Cams "Dual Energy" cam (DE275), which was supposed to be the hot ticket back then with iron HP exhaust manifolds. The tired 383 in the Chally had a DP4B intake, so I used it with a 750 Edelbrock that I had laying around. With just these mods and a 2500 stall 11" converter and 3.23 gears, it was a screamer. I loved it, it felt like a 440 or better, and it sounded really wicked with Hooker Competition Turbo mufflers and 2.5" pipes through stainless/aftermarket 2.5" dual outlet R/T tips. I wanted to do a Vanishing Point tribute car one day, with a 440, but alas, life happened and I never had time to really do that. A nice fellow saw the car and wanted to buy it, never having driven it or hearing it run, but his price was right and I let it go. He has many MoPars (some big block strokers, too) and after he drove it home, he was very impressed and wanted details on the "smogger 400" build. They are unappreciated for sure, with lots of potential if you give them what engines want!!
Do you know how much power and torque it was putting out? I am having trouble finding many numbers on these non-stroker 400 combos.
 
Do you know how much power and torque it was putting out? I am having trouble finding many numbers on these non-stroker 400 combos.
I know there's someone who did a stock comp stock stroke 400 build almost identical to mine, and they got 361hp and 397ft lbs. They used a street dominator single plane intake and a 950cfm carb though. I think a bigger cam would definetly wake these 400s up and put out some power. There is definetly more there to be had.
 
I would guesstimate 400ish HP, it sure felt stronger than any stock 440 I ever drove, even with 3.23 gears and the 3.375" B-stroke.
I personally feel like my 400 has more than that dyno'd one. Looking up those cam numbers, my cam isn't too far off (maybe it is). I think that 950 carb hurt the power numbers personally. I would guess my 400 is making 370-375hp maybe. I know it's got a heck of alot more tq than 397ft lbs. Even with 3.23 gears, it PULLS.
 
Do you know how much power and torque it was putting out? I am having trouble finding many numbers on these non-stroker 400 combos.

Torque is fairly easy to guesstimate a decent built engine will put out 1.15 - 1.25 lbs-ft per cid.
 
Chrysler B-series 400 - Hemi Power At Half The Cost - Car Craft Magazine
I bought the short block, had Brian do some mild porting on my RPM heads. He supplied some PRW 1.6 SS rockers and topped it off with my Offy tunnel ram and a pair of avs carbs. Ended up getting 472hp 489ft/lbs. It rolled over really hard just past peak HP and I didn't have time to keep doing pulls to sort it out. It's getting ready to hit the streets- after several years of delays. I plan on trying out some different intakes ( an M1 tunnel ram and a Weiand tunnel ram) . I have a rocker arm correction kit from Mike @ B3 Racing Engines (B3RE)- hoping that help with the nosing over @ 5400. Then it's different cams and a FAST EFI system. The picture is how it looked right after installation.

16073914452_1d2a9c9d21_k.jpg
 
Chrysler B-series 400 - Hemi Power At Half The Cost - Car Craft Magazine
I bought the short block, had Brian do some mild porting on my RPM heads. He supplied some PRW 1.6 SS rockers and topped it off with my Offy tunnel ram and a pair of avs carbs. Ended up getting 472hp 489ft/lbs. It rolled over really hard just past peak HP and I didn't have time to keep doing pulls to sort it out. It's getting ready to hit the streets- after several years of delays. I plan on trying out some different intakes ( an M1 tunnel ram and a Weiand tunnel ram) . I have a rocker arm correction kit from Mike @ B3 Racing Engines (B3RE)- hoping that help with the nosing over @ 5400. Then it's different cams and a FAST EFI system. The picture is how it looked right after installation.

View attachment 1715197808
holy moly. that thing should sing!
 
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