400 horsepower low compression 360

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ike61

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I want a 400 hp 360 built for my 64 valiant. Here is what i currently have for parts, which i would like to use.
75 block with factory pistons
Edelbrock 750 carb
Dougs headers
Factory 68-69 cast intake or torker 340 intake
Factory ignition
I am open to opinions, tips, and advice on head and cam selection
Can this goal be achieved with factory dished pistons?
Thank you
 
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Next question?
 
set of aftermarket heads and a cam that's got like 270 duration and about 480 lift and you're probably close with the 750 and torker.

sounds like you're trying to not spend the dosh in rebuilding the bottom end. if that's the case you need all the help you can get and that's where little things like roller rockers bumping you up a little, an air gap over those other intakes, a windage tray, an 850 double pumper.

otherwise, pick a reasonable cam and slam it together with what you've got. it'll make gobs of torque and be silly fun to drive.
 
set of aftermarket heads and a cam that's got like 270 duration and about 480 lift and you're probably close with the 750 and torker.

sounds like you're trying to not spend the dosh in rebuilding the bottom end. if that's the case you need all the help you can get and that's where little things like roller rockers bumping you up a little, an air gap over those other intakes, a windage tray, an 850 double pumper.

otherwise, pick a reasonable cam and slam it together with what you've got. it'll make gobs of torque and be silly fun to drive.
Torker 1? My big old butt. That's a doorstop. Eddy Airgap or LD340, maybe.
 
Torker 1? My big old butt. That's a doorstop. Eddy Airgap or LD340, maybe.
that's why i said probably close. a qualifier.

but i guess you didn't bother reading the second half of my post where i recommended an air gap...
 
Low cr is gonna cost you about 30 ish hp at 400 hp, so you need to build it like your building a 430+ hp engine with good cr to end up with 400 hp.
 
I'd use good heads and a smallish cam to get there especially with low cr,, but if get closed chamber heads with thin gasket and mill some off the block probably can get ok cr,

Build it like this 340



Here's low cr 360 hop ups and get's to 387 hp

 
How did you arrive at 400 HP? Tell us exactly how you want your valiant to perform and how you are going
to drive it. Are you planning on racing your car?
 
Thanks everyone. Im not going to race it. I just thought 400 could be an achievable number with lower compression. I should have mentioned it will have a 4 speed and 323 gears
 
Head flow is where it's at. That with a cam and intake manifold that works together with your compression. Everything has to work in the same rpm range it will be a pig and not fun to drive.

Match everything together and if it makes 375 will you really be disappointed? I wouldn't.
 
Here's some "old timer" guidelines for a very fast street only driver that's a pleasure to drive. (3.23 rear gears)
a maximum of 10 lbs. per cubic inch
a maximum of 10 lbs. per hp
9:1 minimum first gear torque multiplication
Maximum torque should higher than maximum HP
175 psi static compression if possible
cam duration less than .220
These are not my figures and certainly not carved in stone but seem to make good sense?
If you want to go very fast on the street, strong lo and mid rpm torque might be best...not hp
 
Thanks everyone. Im not going to race it. I just thought 400 could be an achievable number with lower compression. I should have mentioned it will have a 4 speed and 323 gears
A set of aftermarket aluminum heads ( take your pick of the heads available) will have smaller combustion chambers and better flow along with less weight. So if they are in your budget they offer multiple benefits toward your goal. An aftermarket dual plane intake like the Edelbrock airgap, an appropriate 4bbl. carb of your choosing and a camshaft that puts the power solidly in the range the car will driven at are keys to getting the most out of your combination.
Choose your entire combination before you buy any parts. Consult with "experts" to be sure your combination is optimized and compatible with your goal then order parts.
Chasing a number might result in choosing parts that are too "big" resulting in a motor that might make the peak number but at the expense of power loss in the rpm range the car will be driven at with your choice of gear. Think of it like this, for every hp gained by moving the peak hp up out of the rpm range it will be driven at multiples of that hp will be given up in the rpm range you will use it most. Using that mind set might keep you from choosing parts that are too " big". Good luck with your project.
 
^^^ Like said above, consult with experts. Explain what you have, and they will recommend proper combo's that match together. Call Comp Cams and others, they have calculators and will assist you. Everything has to match.
 
Thanks everyone. Im not going to race it. I just thought 400 could be an achievable number with lower compression. I should have mentioned it will have a 4 speed and 323 gears
What i see when someone is tossing a number out! They instead of asking for a combination to do what the intended use is for ask for a horsepower number. When this happens, I think Nick's GarageBand of Monkey Men. We got 389 runs great has great curve, will have great manor on street. But we need 400 let's ruin it.
 
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an honest 400 hp 360 won't be very tame and likely unachievable with factory low compression. 350 -370 hp is more likely.
 
From 1990-
360+040”, trw flat tops(8.8cr), home ported stock heads with 2.02/1.60, mp509 cam, Torker II, 650DP carb with 1” open spacer, 1-3/4 headers………398hp(don’t remember the TQ).

Edit…….. actually I’m not sure it had the 1-3/4” headers on it at that point. Might have been budget oriented 1-5/8”.
 
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360, 9.5:1, nothing fancy J heads, XE268H (prefer the voodoo grind), LD340/AG/RPM, headers, 750 carb combo will make in the 350-360+ range all day long and be enough to push a basic A body at 3300 to around 108-110+ in the 1/4 mile.

Do a real good clean up in the ports and it will push a bunch closer to 400 and be docile enough to drive around and not be a PIA. Still have a little chop at idle.
 
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In 318will run's last post he has aquired a 904 with the later lo set first and second gears. In all the years i've been
on these forums it's never mentioned. I think this is one of the best modifications that could be made to increase
performance.I know a number of racers that run them.
 
I want a 400 hp 360 built for my 64 valiant. Here is what i currently have for parts, which i would like to use.
75 block with factory pistons
Edelbrock 750 carb
Dougs headers
Factory 68-69 cast intake or torker 340 intake
Factory ignition
I am open to opinions, tips, and advice on head and cam selection
Can this goal be achieved with factory dished pistons?
Thank you

No. I say this only because your tone suggests a limited budget.

Put it together according to your budget. Get a professional to recommend a cam. Tell people it’s 400 hp. Neither you, nor anyone else well know.
 
I'd use good heads and a smallish cam to get there especially with low cr,, but if get closed chamber heads with thin gasket and mill some off the block probably can get ok cr,

Build it like this 340



Here's low cr 360 hop ups and get's to 387 hp



That "Other small block" video is excellent. For all those that think putting in camshaft will kill the bottom, there's little difference at 2500-4000 rpm across the board with all the changes, big differences up top. You get the best of both worlds. Put a 63 cc chamber alum head on that rated 8.5:1 360 and you get a decent squeeze factor.

Those 268 camshafts are mild and easy to tune throughout the operating range.
 
I would wait til november sales and either
1. Get speedmaster heads complete for $750
Or of budget allows
2. Promaxx heads (20 or 30% off)

Def get an airgap copy intake.

Run a cam that will work well with 3.23 gears. 268-270 duration range and tighter lsa. Little looser converter if possible.

It makes what it makes.
 
I have a new in box TCI breakaway converter i grabbed on sale because I figured it would work well with a 280 cam and 3.23 gears.
It’s be 11” and should be “1000 rpm” over stock…sounds like a factory 340 hi stall or something similar. Didn’t want anything too mushy.

Anyway, pm me if you want it. I have a smaller converter to run as my cam choice creeped a little hotter than i intially thought.
 

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