Has anyone here built or know anything about building a 400 using the 383/400 crankshaft with a 440/6.76 rod. What if any are the advantages/ disadvantages of it? It seems to me that you would have a high winding engine with more torque than the 400... Heard of it and curious. Always a student. Thanks!
400?
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Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
That's a loaded question. The rod length won't give you a noticeable improvement by it itself, because your cam, heads, and intake will still dictate how it runs. If you have to buy a crankshaft, go bigger.
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
If it's a street/strip application, you won't be disappointed as long as the top end is optimized like it should be on any build. What is the basic plan be for use? Have any thoughts about the rest of combination yet?
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
a longer rod will not give more torque, but longer is better-lighter piston
A body,727 with a gearvendors eventually or an8.75 with 2 diffs. One 4:10’s or 3:91’s one 2:76 for Highway. Street 90%,strip sometimes. I like the rpm capability of the 383’s. But the 440’s gotta lot of torque. There’s ways around a 451 or 470 and up.Gotta hold its own against the newer mustangs and Camaros.Even if it is 50 year old technology. Mustangs and camaros like to rev, but not a lotta low rpm torque. I know, had both. For the 400,Edelbrock heads,street master intake, hp manifolds or Schumacher headers. 2800-3000 stall. Not sure of cam yet. Haven’t ordered pistons yet,probably Ross.Want to use what I have. Thanks.
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Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
The perceived rpm capability of a 383 is not relevant. A properly prepped 440 or even 500 cube stroker can rev quicker and higher than an old school 383. It's all about the combination of parts. If you don't already have the intake, step up to an Edelbrock RPM, as it will beat the streetmaster everywhere, including the lower rpms. Either way, a 400 will work very nicely for that setup. Good luck on the build. Should be fun.
Scroll down to HP Engines where their 406 made 600+ horsepower.
The 2011 AMSOIL/Mopar Muscle Engine Challenge, Part 2 - Mopar Muscle Magazine
The 2011 AMSOIL/Mopar Muscle Engine Challenge, Part 2 - Mopar Muscle Magazine
383Scampman
Well-Known Member
A 400 with a 361/383 crank and rods with forged pistons would be my choice . Why: All 361/383 cranks up to 1970 are forged . All 361/383 cranks are neutral balanced . A 400 piston has a larger bore , therefore , is heavier . 361/383/400 rods are dimentionally the same . The 400 rods may be heavier but I'm not sure . To me , a 400 with 383 crank and rods plus .030" overbore makes a sturdy , high revving , torquey package that fits better in an A-body than a RB unit . Just my opinion .
I was thinking that. I just wanted and respected others opinions. I think? It would be just as competitive as a451 but last longer due to the longer skirt...imo. I’m more used to doin 440’s 30 years ago. Times have changed. I am goin in a street 90% and strip maybe 10% A body with a 727.
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The bore, stroke, rod length, and compression height all look great, but without holding it in your hand it's hard to tell. The relationship between the pin, ring package, stroke and rod length (angularity) is going to dictate rocking forces. The skirt length basically triangulates the pin to ring distance to stabilize the piston in the cylinder. Different manufacturers can have different skirt designs limited by weight and crank clearance at BDC. Regardless, a short stroke and long rods will always reduce side loading. Which leads to longer service life and reduces the main cause of block failure.
Only problem is cosmetic. The eddy rpm, I don’t think will fit under my stock hood. Trivial, but I’d rather not cut my hood..
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