416 stroker ???

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SIR rods frighten me, I'd rather use stockers in mild setups, and better in built setups
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Once again i laugh at this statement,theres is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using SIR rods when properly prepared,theres a set living quite well in my 416 making 520h.p. with 2+ seasons of racing,and turning the motor to 7000 rpms many times..i have'nt had 1 issue with them whatsoever,like i've stated many times its all has to do with whos machining/building your motor...
 
340srule said:
Once again i laugh at this statement,theres is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using SIR rods when properly prepared,theres a set living quite well in my 416 making 520h.p. with 2+ seasons of racing,and turning the motor to 7000 rpms many times..i have'nt had 1 issue with them whatsoever,like i've stated many times its all has to do with whos machining/building your motor...
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i agree.. i know a few guys running them with no issues.. don't know wht they get a bad wrap..
 
been thinking about going 408 since my motor is apart. actually thought 416 also because i have a standard bore 340 in the shed that needs a rotating assembly.... still undecided though.. there is a guy with a 416 on my site and he loves it. he is at like 10.80's in a duster with it...


what do you guys think of the scat kit... its like 1100 and change with cast crank, forged pistons, rods,bearings and rings ? heard good things about them from a couple guys but i have no idea. there are too many choices out there.
 
340, I do hope Eagle gives you something for your efforts...lol Since as usual, you're asking for justification for a differing opinion, here's why I dont bother.The truth for me is, to get a set of stockers redone right (new bushing, ARP bolts, and machining/rebuilding) is less than a set of SIRs "properly prepared". I pay $270 for that including bolts. If Eagle cant machine them right, (properly prepared means resizing the big ends for those that dont know, translates into $100 more for the set for me) and I know of a history that had problems there was no way I could find even if it might have been addressed, there's no way I'll use them. I end up with a rod I've spent $400 on ($289 plus 10.95 from Summit, plus $100 to "properly prepare") that is slightly better than a stock rod, and in my head, might have a problem where it would fracture. I've run stock rods to 7200 with heavy TRWs on them more times than I should have. The engine was 400hp plus a 150hp spray kit. now-a-days I'm running much lighter stuff, and it's better balanced. So I have no reason to run SIRs. If I need more rod (4" arms do if they go over 6K) I'll spend the extra $200 to get H beams.

In short, if I get sick after I eat at a resturant, I dont go back. Ever. Even tho 98% of others had no issues, and it may not even have been the food. In my head I got a bad taste, and I dont go back. If I hear that 10% of the customers are getting sick, and nobody tells me a definitive reason why, I wont feel good about trying the place. Just MY OPINION. Every cook has thier own feelings...lol.
 
Moper, my rods "preped"did'nt cost anywhere near what you printed,and SIRs "new"in the box are less then re-doing a set of 30 years old ones..you use what you like i'll do the same,but you seem to always have negetive comments about the SIRs being no good,my engine is living proof your wrong,i must be the ONLY guy who has'nt had any issues with them huh??..then again my motor was built by guys who actually know what their doing,not by some who have'nt got a "clue"...
 
abodyjoe said:
been thinking about going 408 since my motor is apart. actually thought 416 also because i have a standard bore 340 in the shed that needs a rotating assembly.... still undecided though.. there is a guy with a 416 on my site and he loves it. he is at like 10.80's in a duster with it...


what do you guys think of the scat kit... its like 1100 and change with cast crank, forged pistons, rods,bearings and rings ? heard good things about them from a couple guys but i have no idea. there are too many choices out there.
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Joe,if your thinking about stroking it 'do it"..i'am so glad i stroked my 340 i was just going to rebuild it,but after talking to Chuck at Best Machine he convinced me to stroke it,i have a smile:-D every time i run it down the track,when i built mine i bought each component seperately,but theres so many kits out there now you really have a good choice to choose from,i'm also running a "cast crank" which is doing just fine,pistons were expensive though...in the end it was well the money i spent,i'm trying to locate a good 340 block to do a another stroker,but a little different this time...:-D
 
It's funny how different people have different info, not saying wrong just different. I went with Eagle SIR rods because I heard from a guy my brother has build his motors that the Scat stuff breaks so he quit using them and went with Eagle stuff with so far no failures. So now we have both sides saying that one is better that the other with real life experiences.

It sounds to me that it doesn't matter which one you use, Eagle or Scat because both have, thru examples, about the same amount of failures. Heck they probably come from the same Chinese factory.

My next motor will be a stroker mainly because I will be able to run the same, if not better numbers as I do now with a milder motor.

If you already have the 340 I say stroke it but if you do not have a block yet I would use a 360 because they are cheaper so you will be able to use the money somewere else in the setup.


Chuck
 
340srule said:
Joe,if your thinking about stroking it 'do it"..i'am so glad i stroked my 340 i was just going to rebuild it,but after talking to Chuck at Best Machine he convinced me to stroke it,i have a smile:-D every time i run it down the track,when i built mine i bought each component seperately,but theres so many kits out there now you really have a good choice to choose from,i'm also running a "cast crank" which is doing just fine,pistons were expensive though...in the end it was well the money i spent,i'm trying to locate a good 340 block to do a another stroker,but a little different this time...:-D
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cool... the next decision will be the 340 or 360.. the 360 that came out of the car is .020 over and will most likely have to goto .030 to clean up #1 cyl. the 340 i have is just the block and main caps and i think std. bore. probably better off doing the 360 since i have three laying around.

just thinking here.. i have the 63cc chamber eddy heads. will they work on the stroked 340? i know the eddy heads that are usually used on a 340 are the open chambers. not sure if the stroker changes that... that will be a big part of the decision too.
 
Joe, the reason that Eddy has a 340 version is because a stock pre-72 340 have postive deck pistons so they require an open chamber. If you built a motor with flush deck or under pistons then you would not need the open chamber (340) heads, even with a 340 block.

Chuck
 
You could feasable use the same piston in both the 340 and 360 blocks. A 0.060 360 4" stroker piston will also fit in a .020 340 block.


Chuck
 
340srule said:
Moper, my rods "preped"did'nt cost anywhere near what you printed,and SIRs "new"in the box are less then re-doing a set of 30 years old ones..you use what you like i'll do the same,but you seem to always have negetive comments about the SIRs being no good,my engine is living proof your wrong,i must be the ONLY guy who has'nt had any issues with them huh??..then again my motor was built by guys who actually know what their doing,not by some who have'nt got a "clue"...
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You missed the point on Moper's post as he clearly stated it's his opinion. After what I've read, I'll probably still use the SIR's in my stroker build. But Moper's just saying that HE had a bad experience with them and chooses not to use them. More often than not, too many people take what has been posted out of context. No one is bashing your buildup, it's worked out well for you. It doesn't mean others aren't allowed to have a negative opinion. Remember, it's just an OPINION. :cheers:
 
abodyjoe said:
just thinking here.. i have the 63cc chamber eddy heads. will they work on the stroked 340? i know the eddy heads that are usually used on a 340 are the open chambers. not sure if the stroker changes that... that will be a big part of the decision too.
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Joe the closed chamber 63cc heads are preferred over the open chamber 65cc heads regardless if you build a stroker or not. The open chamber 65cc heads are only offered for those who are stuck using the stock positive deck 340 pistons and do not want to switch to zero deck type pistons. The heads you have a are perfect for a SB stroker.
 
Thrasher, Thanks, somebody read that part at least...

340, have fun with your engines. I stand behind mine, and poor choices can mean me paying to completely re-do someone else's engine explosion. That's the difference beyond cost of work done. An example, the 422 I'm doing now had a crack no-one found prior to complete machining. Well, honestly. I didnt find. So I paid out of pocket for the block (one of my spares), and the partial assembly, and the sonic tesing and magging of this new one and the complete machining of it. When you drop $1600 on some stranger's engine, come and tell me my choices are not valid. And I challenge any pro shop to stand behind things like I do. In terms of me and you, no harm, no foul. just two different takes on things.

Joe, I have a Scat 4" arm for the 340 block new in the box. Whatever you buy, if the box don't say "dragonslayer", make sure the shop measures every journal. Out of 5 mains and 8 rods, I have 4 perfect mains, #5 had .0003 taper (acceptable for this engine) and 4 perfect rods, 4 have .0003-.0005 taper. that .0005 id just barely acceptable. If this was destined for a race engine, I'd have the crank turned to fix that. Callies' are always perfect.
 
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