4160 Holley help

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mechanic190

mechanic190

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This might be a little premature but I am getting my drag pick up running on the cheap. I have a 4160 650 Holley I am going to be running. I do not have a book or anything on it and have never messed with a Holley at all. What mods should I do to it and any more tips and tricks? Anything helps.
 
Forgot to mention I have I have a quick fuel metering plate conversion kit part number 34-2, power valve plug part number 15010, secondary spring assortment 150292, Holley vac secondary kit 37-1542, and Holley trick kit 37-119.
 
Any idea what the carburetor is going on? We haven't a clue.
 
Sorry it is a budget built 360 stock slugs heads and intake. Comp cam 275deh. It's in a pick up with no title so strictly bracket racing. 3.91 gears open headers factory ignition for now.
 
Anybody have anything? I read the Holley how to and another Holley thing on a Chevy site. I guess I am just lost. I have had an edlebrock for years and know those inside and out but know nothing about holleys
 
What is the carb # on the choke tower? One of us will be able to look it up and tell you some of the original specs, like original jets, power valve & squirters. Should be 4 numbers and probably have a "-" with another #.

The Holley 3310-x vacuum secondary carb, for example, came with 72 jets up front and a power valve. The metering block conversion recommended 75 or 76 jets to replace the metering plate. No secondary power valve. Holley has a jet conversion chart for each of their metering plates.
 
Make sure the surfaces on the main body are true with a ferrier's file. Modify the base plate for a check ball in the power valve vacuum port if it does not have one. To increase secondary response you can plug the vacuum balance port to the secondary diaphragm feed. It is a tiny hole located in the passenger side secondary venturi. Silicone or epoxy works fine. I also do not use a check ball in the secondary diaphragm housing and use that ball for the power valve port conversion.

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That carburetor is a pretty good match out of the box. That's how I would build it to start with. Then you will at least have a known baseline to modify from if it does not perform like you want.
 
Auto or manual trans?

These carbs can be upgraded/chnged around quit a bit. You can install a secondary metering block (4150) instead of the plate the 4160's come with. It is more tunable that way, but not a huge deal.
This carb is preety good OOTB as delivered. i would run it as is with just a jetting change (IF NEED BE) and see where the short comings are, if any.
 
The 1850 is a 600, not a 650. Are you going to add a metering block to the rear?
 
Also have 2 more 1850s matched sets but only one fuel inlet on each carb. The first carb has 2 fuel inlets. I was gonna run the the single fuel inlets on a tunnel ram big block until my budget got cut.

As far as metering block to the rear is that the metering plate conversion kit I have?
 
Sorry for being clueless. I now have all the parts and carbs in front of me with all the parts I have and am reading the directions. I don't even know what these parts will do or how they will help
 
If the conversion makes it have jets in the rear, yes. Some also include the installation of a power valve too, but not all.
 
So I have the fuel bowls off and both sides have metering plates. To the best of my knowledge. Front has 66s and rear has 72s
 
mechanic190 said:
So I have the fuel bowls off and both sides have metering plates. To the best of my knowledge. Front has 66s and rear has 72s
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Well, the primary side has a metering BLOCK that's about 1/2" thick. The metering PLATE I refer to is only on the secondary side of the 4160. It is located under the rear float bowl. It does not add any length to the carburetor like the metering block does.

If you add a metering block to the secondary side of a 4160, you are converting it to a 4150.
 
This is where I am right now
 

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What's the secondary side look like?
 
So this a rear metering plate and has already been converted?
 

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If the main body says 1850, then someone has converted it to a 4150 with center hung, dual feed bowls.......which is cool too.
 
Ok so that's a plus. So pretty much I'm gonna finish tearing it down and clean it and put in the blue gaskets in the trick kit and new needle and seats and I should be set right? I don't have any other jets at the moment so the power valve plug is out of the question from my previous reading. No need for the metering blocks. So I have the trick kit, 37-1542 vac secondary kit and secondary spring assortments. Should I do anything with the vac secondary kit right now?
 
Yeah I think it will work good. A good place to start is with the third lightest spring on the secondary diaphragm. I forget which color that is. I would also leave the check ball IN.
 
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