426 stroker kit

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Cuda srt8- the 440 uses a 4.25" stroke.
All ~426 builds use either a 4.05-4.08 stroke.
I have yet to see a 4.00" stroke. I think Andy offers one but I don't think it's a shelf item anywhere else.
Scat recently released a 3.90" stroke.

Options:
3.58
3.795- iron '392' using 6.1
3.900
4.05 - iron '426', iron 392 using 5.7
4.08 - iron '426', iron 392 using 5.7
4.125- not a regular shelf item- used in alum blocks mostly- aluminum block '440'
4.25 - (iron '440' crank)

In iron blocks:
The 4.25" stroke cranks are not used with boost. The 4.05-4.08 are, and are the most commonly used stroker cranks for those under 1000 rwhp. Lots of cars run the 4.05-4.08 with good longevity, including joelvan who road races his challenger in american iron series. For big boost and longevity, the 3.795 or 3.58 is used. The compression height of the pistons puts the pin into the third ring on the 4.05" and up cranks.

The 4.05/4.08" are considered 4" stroke cranks.



Everything I have read indicates the main concern with the longer strokes is crank strength (overlap), main strength, and piston deck height. Few discussions on 'scuffing' of pistons, mostly related to 4.25" stroke iron block 440's.

Emil's link to Andy's post is much more in detail.
 
Barton has free shipping on everything he sells. I dont care how anyone else spends their money, but Barton was the fastest and most customer friendly transaction I had on this entire endeavor. Plus he has probably the most powerful 426" Gen III in existence naturally aspirated.
 
Cuda srt8- the 440 uses a 4.25" stroke.
All ~426 builds use either a 4.05-4.08 stroke.
I have yet to see a 4.00" stroke. I think Andy offers one but I don't think it's a shelf item anywhere else.
Scat recently released a 3.90" stroke.

Options:
3.58
3.795- iron '392' using 6.1
3.900
4.05 - iron '426', iron 392 using 5.7
4.08 - iron '426', iron 392 using 5.7
4.125- not a regular shelf item- used in alum blocks mostly- aluminum block '440'
4.25 - (iron '440' crank)

In iron blocks:
The 4.25" stroke cranks are not used with boost. The 4.05-4.08 are, and are the most commonly used stroker cranks for those under 1000 rwhp. Lots of cars run the 4.05-4.08 with good longevity, including joelvan who road races his challenger in american iron series. For big boost and longevity, the 3.795 or 3.58 is used. The compression height of the pistons puts the pin into the third ring on the 4.05" and up cranks.

The 4.05/4.08" are considered 4" stroke cranks.



Everything I have read indicates the main concern with the longer strokes is crank strength (overlap), main strength, and piston deck height. Few discussions on 'scuffing' of pistons, mostly related to 4.25" stroke iron block 440's.

Emil's link to Andy's post is much more in detail.

Uhcoog,
This info is a good start for someone looking into a stroker, but it's all the typical info that's available on the internet. I disagree on some of your opinions though. Some of what you've stated is correct for someone building a budget stroker with an iron block. However, incorrect when you look at the bigger picture including the aluminum blocks.

A 4.00" stroke is a 4.00" stroke. You can't design an engine with such generalization, saying a 4.05 or 4.08 are considered 4.00". C'mon, you gotta know better than that!?!? And not all 426 builds use either the 4.05 or 4.08.

There's at least 2,3 or possibly 4, 4.00" cranks out there. Callies and Scat each have one and I think possibly Manley. Keep in mind you can use the 4.00" with a much bigger bore in the aluminum block vs. iron. The Mopar Perf. Gen3 426 uses the Callies 4" crank and rods. BTW, for what it's worth, Callies even has a 4.013"

Personally, I'm agonizing between getting an aluminum block and building a true 426 (w/4" crank) or use that crank in an iron 6.1 block I have and end up around 413" or so. I think the 4" with the stock 4.055 bore or maybe +.010 would be a great NA engine.

BTW, I'm not that impressed with PWR. There's a few other Hemi specialist shops I have a higher regard for...
 
A 4.00" stroke is a 4.00" stroke. You can't design an engine with such generalization, saying a 4.05 or 4.08 are considered 4.00". C'mon, you gotta know better than that!?!? And not all 426 builds use either the 4.05 or 4.08.

Really?! Don't be a d*ck. Of course I know there is a difference between 4.00, 4.05, and 4.08". But they're all very close, and if someone says 4" (and doesn't use decimals) and refers to multiple manufacturers, of course I'm going to assume they're talking about all three stroke options that start with 4.xx".

The only info I got wrong in my post is I didn't know 4.00" was a shelf crank anywhere. I now know it is at Callies. If K1, Molnar, Manley, or Scat offer one, it's not listed anywhere I can find it. You say there is a Scat 4.00" - where? Also there is a Manley?- show me. And there's a fourth? Let's see that one too.

I posted because you incorrectly stated the iron 440 crank is a 4.125. The rest of my post wasn't directed at you, but to the forum in general.
 
GUYS GUYS , Both of you have contributed GREAT INFO for me and the forum. THANK YOU BOTH.
My hope is to build a strong motor on a budjet . I have thousand spent on my car and still on stands.
I was referring to all 4.05 or 4.08 when I said 4" . But im glad that it opened a couple of question?

1: can I up my motor using the stock 6.1 crank?
2:i really want to use a manley crank but by the time I bring it into Canada pay all the bs. taxes duties and sh#t . Im into 1200.00 .

John
 
One fellow has offset ground a 6.1 crank to 3.80 and he went to a Honda size journal to do it. And the only way to build a 426 with a 4.0" crank is with an aluminum block with a 4.125 BORE. Keep an eye out and call some people, there is a huge Gen III following in Canada and I bet if you put the word out on LX forums you might find some good parts fairly local.
 
I've been looking at sooo many possible combos for myself, my simple and aged mind doesn't do well "off the cuff" anymore. I thought I qualified my statement about the 440 stroke by including "I could be wrong". I stand corrected by uhcoog on that.

Uhcoog, once again you try to drag me into your drama and I do not wish to engage, especially with your latest attempt.

To the OP, if you're comfortable going beyond a 4" stroke, enjoy. If you want a (true) 4" crank, Callies and others offer one, although the manufacturers don't always keep their websites updated.
 
A custom crank I'm sure would cost a fortune. Custom pistons are not all that big a deal. I forget which manufacturer it is (if not more than one) that charges the same price for custom spec or shelf spec.
 
I believe Wiseco will make small changes to a piston design for ~$10 a hole or something. Not for sure on that, though.

The full on Custom Wiseco slugs were quite a bit more.
 
This guy is on a budget, if I had to bet, I would say a 4.05 stroke is the most common available crank available.
 
Don't we all build on a budget? The budget is just different for each of us and the OP hasn't stated what his budget is.

To the OP, to know what kind of money you expect to spend on your engine will also help with suggestions. Also, what are you putting this engine into?

If you stroke it, you're probably going to need to go with ported heads and of course a bigger cam. Depending on what you're putting this engine into and what type of use you have in mind, a warmed up 6.1 is no slouch. :)
 
Depending on what you're putting this engine into and what type of use you have in mind, a warmed up 6.1 is no slouch. :)

Man, compared to LA, B, and RB engines, a warmed over 5.7 is no slouch!lol And when the Gen III might not measure up, it's fuel economy still puts it on top...
 
If you stroke it, you're probably going to need to go with ported heads

Ported 'older type' 5.7s or 5.7 Eagles or 6.1 heads - 300 cfm at .650 is enough to support 426 cubes no problem....assuming he's not running some crazy duration/lift cam. :)
 
Right now looking to do the bottom end . Its a 2006 6.1 . I have purchased an INDY mod intake . And the msd6 ignition. Have a 750 cfm vacuum secondary. Want THE CAR TO BE STREETABLE. I used to have a 440 .060 with ported heads 850 cfm. car ran 11.22 at 117 mph. with an auto 3800 stall 4.10 rears . keeping the 4.10 and now 4speed 18 spline.
 
They suck at making power. Look at all the work Rat Patrol has put in his to get it to work. Plan on 2 carbs on a stroker. Sucks there isn't a better option that fits under a stock hood. Anyone making respectable power out of a Gen III is either using a 6.1 intake or a Drag Pack/Drag Pack copy.
 
Another "mod" intake. I'm sorry.

Cant help but agree....

CNC - Run dual 500 carbs and build a thick divider to split the plenum - Your mid range toque will go through the roof, your gas mileage will IMPROVE, and it will be more responsive.

Mine made 4 mph in the qtr with these two mods....and I'm still improving it.

You will be battling a stupid sized plenum, and very poor carb signal.
 
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