440 break in or not?

[dkbug]

I'm seeking professional advice from the awesome peeps at FABO.

I acquired a 440 from a friend of mine and know that it runs. He had fired it up for me and let it run for a while.

The deal we had made was the motor without the heads. He disassembled the heads off the motor leaving the cam and lifters in their spot. When I started rebuilding the engine I accidently mixed up a few of the lifter locations. Following this I ordered all new lifters and pushrods and assembled the engine.

The question I have that I can't seem to find an accurate answer too is if I have to do an initial break in or not. Keep in mind that I did not touch the crank or pistons.

Thanks, DK

 

[dkbug]

Also if it calls for it, can someone explain the steps of a break-in and what oil type everyone uses for it.

 

[jbc426]

Was it a new cam and lifters? Did he break in the cam for 20 minutes, varying the rpm from above 2500 rpm to 4000 or higher?

Pretty much once it runs, you don't want to move the lifters from the lobe it ran on....ever. Unless they are those super-hard ceramic lifters or roller lifters.

You can always buy a fresh set of lifters and do the cam break in all over. That is what I would do if they got mixed up after it ran. It's hard enough not to flatten a lifter with the oil available these days unless you spend a small fortune on high end specialty oils. You don't even have to pull the intake on a 440 to change the lifters with the special tools available for cheap.

 

[dkbug]

He ran the cam for a few hundred miles. I did not replace the cam, just lifters. So what you are getting at is I should do a Break-in. What oil does everyone usually use? What PPM zinc content would you recommend? I called shell oil co. And they said that quakerstate "Defy" has 1200 ppm, which is the same as retella 15w-40 diesel oil.

 

[OldmanRick]

You definitely need to do a break in run with the new lifters! I'll let others that are more current recommend a specific oil and whether it needs a additional additive.

The point I wanted to make is, what valve springs are you using with the new heads? If they are stock type singles you're good.....If they are a stout double spring, you need to pull the inner springs for break in.

I assume this is a flat tappet hyd/solid lifter cam?

 

[BTYM]

I wouldn't call myself a professional by any means, but I did race my entire life on a little dirt track in Ransomville, NY. Growing up racing, I have built, and helped build a poop load of engines. I was always taught to break an engine in the way you intend to use it. When we built an engine for our street stock, we'd start it up a few times, tune it, and go out to the track and thrash it. We usually never had any huge problems with the engine. When i built my 350 for my truck, I just got in and drove it. Got me from Western NY to Northeastern Colorado towing a trailer full of everything I owned at the time without a problem. i still own and drive that truck daily, not a single issue so far. Maybe I have just gotten lucky my entire life, but I don't think break in procedure is as big of a deal as it seems. Does is help in the long run? Maybe, but if an engine that wasn't broken in blows at 100,000 miles, how would you really know whether or not you would've had the same exact issue if you did break it in? Ehh, I'm rambling, either way once you put the new lifters in, break in or not do not use synthetic oil

 

[abodyjoe]

New lifters then break it in.

 

[dkbug]

Ok. I understand that a break-in is needed. OldmanRick, the 440 has a cam with an actual lift of .529, therefore it has aftermarket springs. Not the double type though.

Let's talk oil before I pull the trigger. Synthetic? Additive? Conventional?

How many quarts will a 440 take with a 187 oil pan? Stock dipstick work with aftermarket pan?