440 build

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1930

1930

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Hopefully its Ok to post this here, I already have another thread going on a small block but thats now in the machine shop having work done and I expect it to be there several weeks. Id like to take the opportunity to try and get this together. Dont want to impose on anyone

Ive had it back for close to a month now if not better.

I have the majority of parts for it already.

My goal is to put it together properly, have it pull the house down and sound good. No racing and just for fun/learning tool. ( all on a budget )

A little background: 78 R.V engine, tore it down, sent it off to the machine shop, they told me to get .030 over pistons then a month later they say too much rust and now I need .060 over.

I made the mistake of not checking deck height before I took it apart, Ive made a few mistakes with it already according to some people such as parts purchases but it is what it is at this point and Im gonna run what I brung.

Im told that to check deck height Ill need to reassemble with at least a couple of the main bearings in place and 4 pistons at each corner.

I am after a target compression ratio of 10.1. Ive been told the deck height on these B.B can get stupid tall so thats part of why Im checking it. Im assuming Ill have to send it back to the machine shop to have it cut.

We will see. Both of these builds are maybe gonna be slow going cause I need to work on them in my down time, it just so happens that right now I aint got sheet to work on:)

Ive been told ............mock it up with 3 main bearings and 1 piston/rod/bearing combo with out the rings and set the dial indicator and measure............

Im assuming thats a good recommendation?

Its already been balanced as well

Picture 447.jpg


Picture 448.jpg
 
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1930 said:
Hopefully its Ok to post this here, I already have another thread going on a small block but thats now in the machine shop having work done and I expect it to be there several weeks. Id like to take the opportunity to try and get this together. Dont want to impose on anyone

Ive had it back for close to a month now if not better.

I have the majority of parts for it already.

My goal is to put it together properly, have it pull the house down and sound good. No racing and just for fun/learning tool. ( all on a budget )

A little background: 78 R.V engine, tore it down, sent it off to the machine shop, they told me to get .030 over pistons then a month later they say too much rust and now I need .060 over.

I made the mistake of not checking deck height before I took it apart, Ive made a few mistakes with it already according to some people such as parts purchases but it is what it is at this point and Im gonna run what I brung.

Im told that to check deck height Ill need to reassemble with at least a couple of the main bearings in place and 4 pistons at each corner.

I am after a target compression ratio of 10.1. Ive been told the deck height on these B.B can get stupid tall so thats part of why Im checking it. Im assuming Ill have to send it back to the machine shop to have it cut.

We will see. Both of these builds are maybe gonna be slow going cause I need to work on them in my down time, it just so happens that right now I aint got sheet to work on:)

Its already been balanced as well

View attachment 1715037558

View attachment 1715037559
Click to expand...
um ok, i feel like there's a question in here somewhere, am I missing it?
 
I ended up installing all the bearings just to get a feel for things, I guess these are what are called half circle in that there is an oil channel on only one half of the bearing?

I also thought it was interesting and hadnt noticed before that the main caps were numbered, cast into the cap itself, cant remember now seeing that on my 340.

Also the rods were all marked on the big end but instead of being stamped kinda sorta neatly like the 340 these look like they were put there with an engraving tool and it was beer Friday :)

Can I get some opinions on this assy lube? Good bad or good enough?

Picture 449.jpg


Picture 450.jpg


Picture 451.jpg


Picture 452.jpg
 
dukeboy_318 said:
um ok, i feel like there's a question in here somewhere, am I missing it?
Click to expand...

These threads are more of an ongoing learning tool for myself and anyone that chooses to read. I would hope that I get offered tips and advice along the way to make things better.
 
I notice now that the connecting rod bearings have a hole in them on one half but there is no corresponding hole anywhere on the rod? Whats the deal with that.

Same with main bearings but at least the block had a hole that the bearing lined up with.

Picture 453.jpg
 
1930 said:
"They told me to get .030 over pistons then a month later they say too much rust and now I need .060 over."

Not sure what your seeing, .060 oversized
Click to expand...

Sorry, I read that as you had already bought the .030 ones. My bad.
 
Just temp. assy so no big deal but I think I remember the arrow is supposed to go toward the front of the engine?

Looks almost flush to me, they did take some off the deck, Im not sure why ( other than too charge me ) cause i told them that I would need to measure and bring it back.

Maybe Ill get lucky and Ill hit my target compression right off the bat.

Picture 454.jpg


Picture 455.jpg
 
1930 said:
I notice now that the connecting rod bearings have a hole in them on one half but there is no corresponding hole anywhere on the rod? Whats the deal with that.

Same with main bearings but at least the block had a hole that the bearing lined up with.

View attachment 1715037584
Click to expand...
Pretty sure that is the dowel hole to hold the bearing shell in place on an aluminum rod.
 
..020-.030 in the hole to me, visually. Sure beats the .100"-120" below the deck, on stock pistons in the mid '70's.....
 
The "arrow" on the piston deals with the wrist pin offset in the piston. But you also want to make sure of the chamfer on the rod big end at the crank. If I recall correctly the large chamfer goes towards the outsides of the rod journal towards the counter weights on the crank.
 
Abodybomber said:
..020-.030 in the hole to me, visually. Sure beats the .100"-120" below the deck, on stock pistons in the mid '70's.....
Click to expand...
.021 thou. Can someone help me to figure out know what the compression would be running the engine as is. I know there are alot of compression calculators that help get out of doing a bunch of math but I dont feel confident that I can do this on my own and get it right.
 
1930 said:
.021 thou. Can someone help me to figure out know what the compression would be running the engine as is. I know there are alot of compression calculators that help get out of doing a bunch of math but I dont feel confident that I can do this on my own and get it right.
Click to expand...
The guy that did my machine work on my 440/505, took a measurement off the crank centerline when he line honed it for the studs. He then took .003 of the decks, which he said is all it took to square them up. I came out w/ about .000- .003 of being flush.
 
1930 said:
Just temp. assy so no big deal but I think I remember the arrow is supposed to go toward the front of the engine?

Looks almost flush to me, they did take some off the deck, Im not sure why ( other than too charge me ) cause i told them that I would need to measure and bring it back.

Maybe Ill get lucky and Ill hit my target compression right off the bat.

View attachment 1715037586

View attachment 1715037587
Click to expand...
You're gonna be close. and those pistons, @IQ52 has a very good write up on a build he's done with those pistons. I think it was called Pop's 440 or something like that, made over 500 hp if I recall right. I'll try to find the link
 
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