440 ignition

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1930

1930

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Looking for recommendations of ignition set-ups.
 
MSD Digital 6. Iv'e run 2. Best bang for the buck and will do anything you ever want to do with the car.
 
1930 said:
Looking for recommendations of ignition set-ups.
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Bit more info might be helpful

How original do you want it, or at least to appear?

How much money do you want to spend?

Is this street only, occasional drags / bracket, or a big HP drag engine?

Are you happy with the huge 8 ft diameter bright red HEI distributor caps, or don't care?
 
67Dart273 said:
Bit more info might be helpful

How original do you want it, or at least to appear?

How much money do you want to spend?

Is this street only, occasional drags / bracket, or a big HP drag engine?

Are you happy with the huge 8 ft diameter bright red HEI distributor caps, or don't care?
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Thanks for asking those question, first question is most important to me, Id like it to look like it belonged there, I like the original look.
Money isnt the biggest obstacle at this point.
Big 4 wheel drive truck Ive restored. Not going to ever break any speed records.
Id rather not have the last question

Too be honest I was too ashamed to admit when I started the post if the old Mopar dist electronic ignition assy were still avail and if people still liked them. Im a mopar guy and I guess I should know those things.

The 440 donor parts truck has a pickup type dist in it with a mallory 6A box which I know ZERO about.

P.O. of the parts donor mud truck used to race the truck.
 
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Run the OEM electronic distributor with the GM HEI module remote mounted on a heat sink. This allows you to drop the ballast resistor and gain spark power. Check with TrailBeast, he sells a kit I believe.... This is a little over kill on the heatsink. You will want an E-core style coil with this setup and power the system with a relay.

heatsink3-jpg.1714941753
heatsink1-jpg.1714941755

i38741-jpg.1714919329
 
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mguner said:
Run the OEM electronic distributor with the GM HEI module remote mounted on a heat sink. This allows you to drop the ballast resistor and gain spark power. Check with TrailBeast, he sells a kit I believe.... This is a little over kill on the heatsink. You will want an E-core style coil with this setup and power the system with a relay.

heatsink3-jpg.1714941753
heatsink1-jpg.1714941755

i38741-jpg.1714919329
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Can you tell me who sells the OEM ( OEM not like OEM but Mother Mopar OEM ) dist.? Gotta be someone who stockpiled these things if they are no longer avail.
 
You are pretty much stuck with the aftermarket replacement pieces..... like the Cardone Part # 30-3896 or Spectra CH-14..... One thing to check is rotor indexing when you get one of these. Some are put together from mismatched piles of parts and can cross fire in the cap.
303896-fro.jpg
 
mguner said:
You are pretty much stuck with the aftermarket replacement pieces..... like the Cardone Part # 30-3896 or Spectra CH-14..... One thing to check is rotor indexing when you get one of these. Some are put together from mismatched piles of parts and can cross fire in the cap.
303896-fro.jpg
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Thanks but Im not going to do cordone, Ill have to keep looking I guess and maybe run across an OEM or buy what might be a quality aftermarket unit
 
Any 72 to early 80s truck, motorhome or Chrysler without Lean Burn is a good candidate for a donor..... Post up in the Parts Wanted section and I'll bet a member here has one to sell you!
 
mguner said:
Any 72 to early 80s truck, motorhome or Chrysler without Lean Burn is a good candidate for a donor..... Post up in the Parts Wanted section and I'll bet a member here has one to sell you!
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Id hate to get stuck with a wobbly worn out unit, maybe I better go with a new aftermarket. What do you think of this unit. PRO BILLET Distributor - "RB" Engine-440 Source

Money ( on todays date ) isnt my biggest issue, Id like to get a quality piece that isnt going to cause me issues later.
 
1930 said:
Thanks but Im not going to do cordone, Ill have to keep looking I guess and maybe run across an OEM or buy what might be a quality aftermarket unit
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HEY!!!! Send me a PM. A buddy has a brand new, from MP distributor with vacuum advance he is wanting to sell.

PM me and I will hook you guys up. He's on FABO. Maybe you can both benefit.



MY BAD MY BAD MY BAD. ITS FOR A SMALL BLOCK. SORRY FOR MY STUPIDITY.
 
Thanks for all the responses, this 6A box was in the parts truck along with the coil and what I am assuming is just some crappy dist.
Does or can this large rectangular box replace the Blue, or orange or gold box that is traditionally mounted onto a Mopar firewall?

Ive read that this box omits a much faster spark repetition but I know the coil makes the spark so are these boxes a much larger condenser ( just to dummy it down )

Picture 031.jpg


Picture 030.jpg
 
Yes it replaces the orange box and you'll also delete the ballast resistor.
 
The HEI & mopar electronic setups are merely electronic switches that are modestly better than the old points setups, they just offer longer / more stable spark and no mechanical wear. I would use a multispark box, these offer greater performance, you can notice right from the driver's seat. The MSD unit is fine, if yours works I'd definitely use it. I've used MSD, Crane, & Mallory boxes with success. You can hide the box if you want to make it look stock, anywhere that gets airflow & minimal heat is OK. You can trigger it with virtually any distributor, the old mopar electronics are a good & easy choice, if you want to get fancy you can get an MSD billet or similar. I've used original points distributors when I want to keep it totally stock looking, works well because there is no current load on the points.
 
396 Signet said:
The HEI & mopar electronic setups are merely electronic switches that are modestly better than the old points setups, they just offer longer / more stable spark and no mechanical wear. I would use a multispark box, these offer greater performance, you can notice right from the driver's seat. The MSD unit is fine, if yours works I'd definitely use it. I've used MSD, Crane, & Mallory boxes with success. You can hide the box if you want to make it look stock, anywhere that gets airflow & minimal heat is OK. You can trigger it with virtually any distributor, the old mopar electronics are a good & easy choice, if you want to get fancy you can get an MSD billet or similar. I've used original points distributors when I want to keep it totally stock looking, works well because there is no current load on the points.
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Ok thanks, good explanation and this one here was a big help in my understanding as well MSD 101: Learning about Multi-Spark
 
1930 said:
Looking for recommendations of ignition set-ups.
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Use the stock style Chrome box, Rev-N-nator works good. This way you have to change nothing. I have a lot of good racing with these. Still use them.
 
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