440 swap in 66 cuda

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I might just try it and find out, lots and pros and cons making it hard to choose lol

its really an easy swap.. headers are not made for it though.. biggest issue. ii did it in my early 20's. the oldheads were all saying that a 440 would not fit in that car.. i proved the grumpy old bastards wrong.. the car wasn't cut to **** either..
 
its really an easy swap.. headers are not made for it though.. biggest issue. ii did it in my early 20's. the oldheads were all saying that a 440 would not fit in that car.. i proved the grumpy old bastards wrong.. the car wasn't cut to ****

its really an easy swap.. headers are not made for it though.. biggest issue. ii did it in my early 20's. the oldheads were all saying that a 440 would not fit in that car.. i proved the grumpy old bastards wrong.. the car wasn't cut to **** either..
Ok thanks that helps me feel more confident with this project
 
You can fit anything into anything, if your capable and willing to move metal around.

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its really an easy swap.. headers are not made for it though.. biggest issue. ii did it in my early 20's. the oldheads were all saying that a 440 would not fit in that car.. i proved the grumpy old bastards wrong.. the car wasn't cut to **** either..


A performance car without headers isn’t my thing.

I had one. They are a ***** to get a tire on.

The engine bay is significantly smaller so everything hits everything.

The OP can do whatever he wants, but unless he can fabricate I wouldn’t do it.

Old people are way ******* smarter than you give credit. Grow up.
 
A performance car without headers isn’t my thing.

I had one. They are a ***** to get a tire on.

The engine bay is significantly smaller so everything hits everything.

thats why i said the headers are the worst part. need to have them made or make them..

no problem getting a tire on.. i ran a cormal tire and it didn't even hit the header. i forget what size 14" it was though.. looked correct int he wheel well though.

a 440 hits nothing in that engine bay. atleast mine didn't. not sure what yours would have hit. like i said i even ran the stock blower motor and a 73 styler master cyl in the stock location..

the 440 was much easier to work on then the 360 i previoulsy had in the car. dist easy to get to, plugs easy to get to , starter easy to get to, there was nothing harder to work on with the 440 in my 64 valiant..

Old people are way ******* smarter than you give credit.


not in this case and i have the pictures and video to prove it.. :)





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thats why i said the headers are the worst part. need to have them made or make them..

no problem getting a tire on.. i ran a cormal tire and it didn't even hit the header. i forget what size 14" it was though.. looked correct int he wheel well though.

a 440 hits nothing in that engine bay. atleast mine didn't. not sure what yours would have hit. like i said i even ran the stock blower motor and a 73 styler master cyl in the stock location..

the 440 was much easier to work on then the 360 i previoulsy had in the car. dist easy to get to, plugs easy to get to , starter easy to get to, there was nothing harder to work on with the 440 in my 64 valiant..





not in this case and i have the pictures and video to prove it.. :)



Did the 360 have headers?

If you think fitting a 7 inch tire is what I meant you have to think differently.

Part of my reply ended up in the box. Just an fyi.
 
my 65 dart kept the blower motor with clearance for the 440 valve cover. engine position, front to back was set by the 727 on the /6 mount and trans crossmember. i cut the k member a fair chunk and boxed it back in for strength to clear the sump i had. i made fenderwell headers which gave fair to decent spark plug clearance. i had to do head gaskets which was fairly easy a while later with the motor in situ. worst part of that job was header bolts.
neil.
 
If you think fitting a 7 inch tire is what I meant you have to think differently.

Part of my reply ended up in the box. Just an fyi.

no the 360 had manifolds. headers for a small block in those cars are a pain in the ***.

you talking front or rear tires? i fit a 28x9 if i remember correctly under it at the track. didn't hit anywhere.
 
no the 360 had manifolds. headers for a small block in those cars are a pain in the ***.

you talking front or rear tires? i fit a 28x9 if i remember correctly under it at the track. didn't hit anywhere.


I meant the rear. I’m not a big front tire guy.
 
even as a first project other then getting headers for it, its an easy swap.
Of course it's an easy swap for people who know a bit about these. Based on his questions and posts though, let's be honest - he's in over his head. My advice holds. Stick with a small block. This is coming from someone building a big block early A.
 
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K-Frame is the same for the six and 8 cyl. since those cars nover came with a big block the answer is no, there is not big block k-frame for them.. when i did mine i used c-body engine brackets with custom pieces going from there and bolting to the k-frame.. thise was before swap mounts were out for them. these are the swap mounts for those cars.. '63-66 A-Body Mopar Big Block Kit

exhaust was the biggest expense when i did mine, had custom headers made for it.. to me it was senseless to stick a 440 in th ecar only to run manifolds..

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Have you sent a message to member “HemiDenny” to ask about his front end kit for early A bodies that eliminates the K frame altogether? He may also have some insight as to what would be needed if you do in fact go that way.
 
No i havent . Ive got the motor mocked up and sitting down on schumaker Mounts and it is looking doable .Have not Tried the stock Mainfolds version on mock up yet . Have some TRI -Y small tube headers coming for a mustang w/bare 440 Header Flanges to see if thats an Option . Looking into"Inspection Covers" even as an Option as the manifolds will be limiting only bottom access for plugs servicing . We are going Electronic ignition conv with stock 440 for longevity on Plug servicing . Doesnt seem to need any notching on Kmember and ive got 1/4 clearence on steering Link bar up on stands suspension unloaded.
 
If those fenderwell headers were my only option, I would not even consider a 440 swap into an early A. I don't like the looks of them at all. Based on you handle of @mopardude440, I assume you are really into 440s. However, if I wanted a lot of power in an early A that was not a drag only car, I would go with a stroked 340 or 360. You can get 450-500 streetable HP easily and it will be so much easier in almost every aspect. Just saying.
I had a very nicely built 383/727 combination that I was going to put into my duster. The modifications necessary to make it all fit made me decide to put a 360 in instead. Just wasn’t worth the hassle, when you can make some serious power out of a small block with all the available aftermarket options that weren’t there in the early 70s through 80s.
 
I had a very nicely built 383/727 combination that I was going to put into my duster. The modifications necessary to make it all fit made me decide to put a 360 in instead. Just wasn’t worth the hassle, when you can make some serious power out of a small block with all the available aftermarket options that weren’t there in the early 70s through 80s.
What modifications made you cower in fear under the kitchen table? The 67 and up A bodies are the easiest to put a big block in.
 
Of course it's an easy swap for people who know a bit about these. Based on his questions and posts though, let's be honest - he's in over his head. My advice holds. Stick with a small block. This is coming from someone building a big block early A.

like i said earlier.. i pulled the swap off in my early 20's. i hardly knew anything about these cars. probably better that i didn't at the time lol. yes i went from a slant 6 to 360 on that valiant first but a friend gave me an old magazine showing exactly what was needed. for the 440 in that car, all the mopar oldheads i knew at the time said it wouldn't fit. i found a way to do it. it was actually pretty easy. these days they make motor mounts for them so its even easier now.. i don't know of anyone makinhg headers for them though.. back then it was the worst part of the swap and its still the worse part of the swap.
 
What modifications made you cower in fear under the kitchen table? The 67 and up A bodies are the easiest to put a big block in.
Cower in fear is a little strong, but I didn't want to cut my subframe to install the Shumacher engine mounts (per instructions), "clearance" headers to fit or buy expensive TTI headers, spark plug access, etc. For me, I could buy a good set of heads for a 360 vs. the cost of making the big-block fit. Just my opinion on the whole swap. Hopefully, everyone that's saying it's easy has personally done the swap and can speak from experience.
 
Cower in fear is a little strong, but I didn't want to cut my subframe to install the Shumacher engine mounts (per instructions), "clearance" headers to fit or buy expensive TTI headers, spark plug access, etc. For me, I could buy a good set of heads for a 360 vs. the cost of making the big-block fit. Just my opinion on the whole swap. Hopefully, everyone that's saying it's easy has personally done the swap and can speak from experience.
I have done it. And before any custom mounts were available. There are also several people who've done big blocks in early A bodies. Those are "a little" more in depth, but I'd still not call them "difficult". I don't know what in the WORLD they're talkin about "cutting the "subframe". What is a subframe on a Mopar? The K member? And headers? Why on earth would you need them? It's a BIG BLOCK in a A body. You could put the crappiest manifolds on there and it'd still be plenty fast. HP manifolds will go in with very minimal mods. It's just not a hard job to do on the 67 and up cars. That said, I guess the mountain to die on is different for each of us. I'm glad you're in the hobby at least.
 
RustyRatRod, Don't get bent out of shape. I meant K-Frame and the instructions say that you must cut the K-Frame to have the mount sit correctly on the driver side. Once done, I couldn't put a small block back in, if I wanted too, without getting another K-Frame, or welding up the previous cut. I've been in the hobby for 45 years and done plenty of tough projects, just not something I felt like pursuing after weighing cost vs. benefit. As I said in the previous post, just my opinion and not trying to piss anybody off.
 
Cower in fear is a little strong, but I didn't want to cut my subframe to install the Shumacher engine mounts (per instructions), "clearance" headers to fit or buy expensive TTI headers, spark plug access, etc. For me, I could buy a good set of heads for a 360 vs. the cost of making the big-block fit. Just my opinion on the whole swap. Hopefully, everyone that's saying it's easy has personally done the swap and can speak from experience.
yep, done it. 440 in a 65 dart. yes i made fenderwell headers but as above that was the hardest part of the swap and they made plug changes a breeze (all 8 of them). i later replaced the head gaskets (turned out the 'good' radiator wasn't so much :BangHead: ) and that wasn't hard either with the motor in situ.
neil.
 
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