440 will not fit in duster ? ?? need help assap doing motor now !!!

-
1994rm250

1994rm250

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2008
Messages
429
Reaction score
0
Location
PortWashington , NewYork
Hey guyss if any one can help me assap please dooo soo im in the middle of putting my 440 into my 76 duster with cppa headers i need all the help i can get its been 2 days i been trying to get this motor in and she dont wanna go ... need help or tips how to put it in , and how to get it on to my 727 thank you angelo !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :clock:
 
alright..lets start with..what specifically wont fit?
 
i think its a 187 oil pan from a C- body the one with a notch on the bottem of it. And the CPPA headers under chassis headers, ans the shumacker slant 6 to b/rb mounts.
 
Put the motor in w/o the headers.....leave the motor on the hoist close to it's place and then sneak the headers in. Leaving the motor loose will allow you to move it around a little while you get the headers started.
 
I've no experience with CPPA headers only Schmacher and TTI but have heard that 1 or 2 of the drivers side pipes need to dented to miss the front of the tranny and starter motor. Make sure that the front of the tranny is as high in the floor tunnel as will go.

terry
 
yeh i bouth them used these headers soo all of that is takeing care of and ,, as for RJSJEA i bealve about 90% sure i hae the leave these in while putting the motor in cause there Longtube headers
 
one more question...do you have a big block transmission in the car?big and small block are diffrent
 
Also,don,t you have to trim back the firewall seam?To make room for 727 tranny?You might have to drop centerlink?Or is that just on Small blocks?
 
you might want to put front end on jacks , remove the torsion bars or at least loosen them and slide them back a ways . this gives a lot more room in there.
 
1994rm250 said:
i never heard about trim the firewall and yes i have a BB 727 ... wat is the center link ??? the transmount ?
Click to expand...

The tranny should be on the mount but left loose. If you look where the firewall meets the tranny tunnel, just behind where the engine will sit, you might see a 1/2" spot welded seam running all the way around. Some of this might have to be removed to allow the front of the tranny to rise high enough to mate to the engine. I've never had to slide the torsion bars back but make sure you are on jack stand and you may have to drop down the steering linkage by removing the nut at the steering box and idler arm and let her hang down.

Terry
 
i think i left the tranny cross member off and slid the tranny back a little and of course i had the car on jack stands, be sure to push the wiring harness into the firewall so you dont get it hung up whie lowering the motor, removing the torsion bars will help alot and removing the steering link (center likn) will help too, its a little bit of work but it will go in there, you gota remember its a virgen for a big block you gota take your time and make it fit
 
okay anyy other tips for this guyss . thanks alot too the guys that have helped me so far i got the trans and engine on.. noww i just gott too find the sweet spot on the trans and the engine any advice on this ?
 
I had my front end up on jack stands when we tried to put my engine and transmission in together. I ended up lifting the rear up just as high as the front and pointing the tailshaft down at the ground (scary) as we lowered it in. We left my torsion bars and steering linkage alone.

We installed the driver side header (schumachers) with the engine out of the car thinking we would have room to install the passenger side while the motor is in the car, we turned out to be wrong there. We thought it would give us more room to work with while installing the engine.

We supported the tail shaft with a jack stand under the car while we concentrated on the engine mounts, the transmission mount/cross member was completely removed. The driverside was the most challenging, I didn't clearance the K-frame enough and had trouble getting a wrench on the nut and washer setup of the schumacher mounts.

The pinchweld at the transmission tunnel was "clearanced" with a "BFH". Basically rolled the pinch weld in to the transmission tunnel to give the transmission more room and ease in the installation.

Once we the engine mounts were addressed we tried to install the passenger side header.... I am using studs in my heads so I had an issue fitting the header in between the the cylinder head and the inner fender well. We ended up loosening the passenger side motor mount (the transmission mount is still un-done) and lifting the motor up out of the passenger side mount. Slipped the header on to the studs and set it back down.

The transmission mount was a job of its own. I had sand blasted and cleaned mine, Ground off some of the original welds and re-enforced it in a few places. I dont know if it was damaged or warped in the first place but it took some persuasion to get it to fit under the car again.

I hope this has helped.
 
I always thought the best way to install a big block was to bolt it to the k frame first and then roll that in place under the car.Jack the k frame up enough to get the bolts in and lower the car onto the frame. I think this method can be used with the tranny bolted to the motor as well as long as the cross member is out.

Think I might try this with my 400 install.
 
alright yeh im gonna go take a look , i heard from a buddy i got my headers from it can be my shumacker mounts ,, i got the cppa headers there the same as the TTI headers just longer collecter tubes , they hit the pass side fenderwell hard !! i banged that in a good 1 inch at lease i dont wanna hit it no more because of my control arm , thanks for the help guys ...angelo
 
sounds like you are doing something very wrong. i would first sort out if you have a engine mounting issue or a header issue. take your headers out and leave them out.
now put the engine in and see if it bolts in.

did you trim your k member like the instructions from schumacher tell you to do?

post some pics or get somebody to physically help you who knows mopars before you ruin anything else.
 
yes i did trim it and had the tech line on the phone as i did it that is all correct but i just found out it can be my slant 6 k-frame that is giving me issues because even the shumacker mount are not xcatly the same as a v8 kframe and yes the mousnt and everything fit perfect with the headers out , i dont even care if they hit i just want them in.
 
you lost me. you used the /6 to big block shumacher kit or the small block to big block one?

sounds to me you have the wrong headers or mounts are sitting in wrong.

i see your sig says 4spd. do you have to modify the Z bar with those headers?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top