4spd short sticks

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Hurst, I do not recall which, (Comp Plus I think), but I can check and get the numbers.
My understanding is the original owner bought it and it is discontinued.
The car is in storage and it is about 10 below right now- is there anyway to mark these threads in order to follow up?

Thanks!

Yes you can go to your User CP tab on the top of the page and set how often you get updates by email.......
 
I know this is an older thread but I can't let this piece of mis-information stay here for future readers.

A short lever WILL most definitely make for a shorter throw. It will increase the amount of force you need to use, but your hand will move a shorter distance.

BTW, I loved banging through the gears in my Duster with a Hurst Super Shifter!!

Well BrianT, You've just showed how little you know about the subject. The distance your arm travels has nothing to do with the "throw" of a shifter.

Since brianT is so concerned about correct information being passed to future readers, and since I have raced 4-speeds for well over 30 years and don't feel the need to justify my information, I'll let Direct Connection do the talking.
"A mid-year change to the 70 E-cars manual transmission side cover linkage provides a pair of holes in the shift levers for the shifter arms.Positioning the rods in the levers INNER holes effectively shortens the THROW required to change gears."
In other words, If you look at the shifter from the side and picture a clock; the throw would be 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. If you use the innermost holes on the lever (reducing the arc in which the levers travel) the throw becomes 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock. THAT IS CALLED SHORTENING THE THROW.
Incidently this will also decrease the distance your arm has to travel...
 
Well BrianT, You've just showed how little you know about the subject. The distance your arm travels has nothing to do with the "throw" of a shifter.

Since brianT is so concerned about correct information being passed to future readers, and since I have raced 4-speeds for well over 30 years and don't feel the need to justify my information, I'll let Direct Connection do the talking.
"A mid-year change to the 70 E-cars manual transmission side cover linkage provides a pair of holes in the shift levers for the shifter arms.Positioning the rods in the levers INNER holes effectively shortens the THROW required to change gears."
In other words, If you look at the shifter from the side and picture a clock; the throw would be 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. If you use the innermost holes on the lever (reducing the arc in which the levers travel) the throw becomes 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock. THAT IS CALLED SHORTENING THE THROW.
Incidently this will also decrease the distance your arm has to travel...

Good information guys,
Does anyone know where to find these shifter levers? Is Brewer's or Passon's making these availible?
T.J.
 
Nitrous340dart,this is a great thread. I changed my 67 bcuda from a auto to a 4 speed and i am on my 4th different shifter handle.I started with the short e-body shifter it
didn't feel right to me.I went to the 70/74 pistol grip next it felt great but they didn't exist in 67.Then i went to the 68/69 console handle it was so-so kinda clumsy.Now i yarded the console out and i am using a 11.5 inch hurst stick.It leans almost 2 inchs towards the driver so it almost hits my knee in 2/4th.I am now on the hunt for a original a-body shifter stick.I don't exactly know why but all these different shifter handles each have a specific feel to them when you shift that is different from the next one.The short one you like should work without hitting anything but it may not be exactly comfortable to use.Of all the one's i used the b-body pistol grip was the best fit and feel.Just my 02 cent's

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The distance your arm travels has nothing to do with the "throw" of a shifter.

Well, it seems were are arguing over a difference in terms. There is no doubt in my mind that moving the shift rods to a hole that is closer to the pivot point of the shift lever will shorten the "throw". My Hurst shifter only came with one hole, not adjustment possible.

BTW, I've been shifting manual trans A bodies since 1978, when I got my first car, a Duster with a 3 speed manual on the floor. We thought it would be cool to put a beer tap handle on it that was about 6 inches long. It did look cool, but it also made the amount of travel on the end about a foot between gears.

That is what I was calling "throw", the distance that your hand moves from one gear to the next. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Nitrous340dart,this is a great thread. I changed my 67 bcuda from a auto to a 4 speed and i am on my 4th different shifter handle.I started with the short e-body shifter it
didn't feel right to me.I went to the 70/74 pistol grip next it felt great but they didn't exist in 67.Then i went to the 68/69 console handle it was so-so kinda clumsy.Now i yarded the console out and i am using a 11.5 inch hurst stick.It leans almost 2 inchs towards the driver so it almost hits my knee in 2/4th.I am now on the hunt for a original a-body shifter stick.I don't exactly know why but all these different shifter handles each have a specific feel to them when you shift that is different from the next one.The short one you like should work without hitting anything but it may not be exactly comfortable to use.Of all the one's i used the b-body pistol grip was the best fit and feel.Just my 02 cent's

clutch love your door panels and buckets,,,di you have the door panels done or find the material already roll and tucked??
 
Fstfish that is one sweet 66 you have their very nice! My car is a 67, the front seats are out of my 68 bcuda,the back seat is done in the 69 pattern.The door panels on my car are about the only thing still on the car from when i bought it.I think if i change them the car might not ever start again! Some day i will get my interior together.
 
Hey Clutch, maybe you can anwer this question for me. I have a stick in my 65 wagon that hits the dash. It is not a bolt in (see pic) can it be removed and replaced with a curved stick?

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Timbolia, yes you can change to a curved shifter arm,but it will have to be a slide in which means it will have to be an original .They are kinda hard to find and spendy.A push in handle from brewers perf. is $279.00. I would change your shifter mech to the later style (1970 &up)then you can use any handle you want.My shifter mech came out of a 70 challenger and i only paid 40 bucks for it.I took it apart cleaned it up real good and greased and oiled it and it works like new.My new handle with the white knob was $70 from summit.
 
One orther thing timbolia,you could probably sell your push in shifter mech to some numbers matching guru for some pretty good cash!Hope that helps.
 
Well BrianT, You've just showed how little you know about the subject. The distance your arm travels has nothing to do with the "throw" of a shifter.

Since brianT is so concerned about correct information being passed to future readers, and since I have raced 4-speeds for well over 30 years and don't feel the need to justify my information, I'll let Direct Connection do the talking.
"A mid-year change to the 70 E-cars manual transmission side cover linkage provides a pair of holes in the shift levers for the shifter arms.Positioning the rods in the levers INNER holes effectively shortens the THROW required to change gears."
In other words, If you look at the shifter from the side and picture a clock; the throw would be 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. If you use the innermost holes on the lever (reducing the arc in which the levers travel) the throw becomes 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock. THAT IS CALLED SHORTENING THE THROW.
Incidently this will also decrease the distance your arm has to travel...

not looking to start an argument, but im gonna have to second this...if you look at newer tranny's that are internal shift rails and look at a stock shifter and short shifter you will notice the short shifter has nothing to do with the length of the stick so to speak...its in the design that decreases shift throws
 
well clutch love the door panels,,when i get to doing some work on my interior thats been my plan for a while rolled and tucked panels,,

in reality,,its the linkage that makes the throw,,providing you have toe room between the linkage arms to shorten up the tabs,,,,but a long handle can also make it feel long between point A and point B,,
 
Hey Clutch, maybe you can anwer this question for me. I have a stick in my 65 wagon that hits the dash. It is not a bolt in (see pic) can it be removed and replaced with a curved stick?
I had the same problem on another car, we heated it up and it bent very easily.
The heat left a mark on the chrome, but my boot covered it.
 
You guys are talking "terms" here, in essence a shifter is a pivot and is going to have a "throw" on both ends of the pivot. If you shorten the distance from either end to the pivot you have decreased the "throw" and increased the force it takes to move it.
 
Good information guys,
Does anyone know where to find these shifter levers? Is Brewer's or Passon's making these availible?
T.J.
If you do decide to shorten the throw, you may want to replace the spring that assists the shifter movement laterally across the neutral gate. With a short throw, 2nd-3rd shifts change a bit. I prefer the standard length of throw myself.
 
Timbolia, yes you can change to a curved shifter arm,but it will have to be a slide in which means it will have to be an original .They are kinda hard to find and spendy.A push in handle from brewers perf. is $279.00. I would change your shifter mech to the later style (1970 &up)then you can use any handle you want.My shifter mech came out of a 70 challenger and i only paid 40 bucks for it.I took it apart cleaned it up real good and greased and oiled it and it works like new.My new handle with the white knob was $70 from summit.


Thanks Clutch, that is very useful information. I might have to look into that.
 
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