5.9 magnum and the ax15

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DumpsterFire

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I'm going to hunt down a ax15 to put behind a 5.9 magnum and hope it survives. Does any 5.9 fly wheel fit with the the ax15? I have to use a 5.9 flywheel for engine ballance. Is that gonna bolt up? I've heard that i could maybe sandwich a 5.9 flexplate in for ballance and it might work.
 
I used the V6 flywheel behind my 5.9, just had it rebalanced to 5.9 specs; but that will only work for you if you don't need the crank sensor (not running EFI). This was in a Dakota. It has survived just fine for over 3 years of indiscriminate thrashing.
As far as "sandwiching" a flexplate in, that doesn't work without a hefty amount of machine work to the flywheel, and is only useful if you need the tabs for the crank sensor. Otherwise spend the machining money having the flywheel rebalanced.
If you plan on throwing this in an A body, just be aware of the amount of torsion bar/transmission crossmember cutting and floorpan work you'll need to do- not just relocating the mount to the rear by 2 1/2 inches, but removing a huge amount of the structural upper center of the crossmember, which will all need to be replaced. You need to remove enough to not only clear the body of the transmission, but a bunch more on the driver's side since the dimensions of the AX15 puts the speedometer drive right in the middle of the crossmember and you need to take enough out to stand a chance of getting a speedo cable hooked up (even if you use a 90* adapter, it will need more taken out). All of which needs to be reconstructed to maintain the strength needed for the rear torsion bar anchors in the crossmember, and the tinwork to cover it all back up. I know it's been done, just be aware of the amount of work it will take to do it, and do it right.
 
I used the V6 flywheel behind my 5.9, just had it rebalanced to 5.9 specs; but that will only work for you if you don't need the crank sensor (not running EFI). This was in a Dakota. It has survived just fine for over 3 years of indiscriminate thrashing.
As far as "sandwiching" a flexplate in, that doesn't work without a hefty amount of machine work to the flywheel, and is only useful if you need the tabs for the crank sensor. Otherwise spend the machining money having the flywheel rebalanced.
If you plan on throwing this in an A body, just be aware of the amount of torsion bar/transmission crossmember cutting and floorpan work you'll need to do- not just relocating the mount to the rear by 2 1/2 inches, but removing a huge amount of the structural upper center of the crossmember, which will all need to be replaced. You need to remove enough to not only clear the body of the transmission, but a bunch more on the driver's side since the dimensions of the AX15 puts the speedometer drive right in the middle of the crossmember and you need to take enough out to stand a chance of getting a speedo cable hooked up (even if you use a 90* adapter, it will need more taken out). All of which needs to be reconstructed to maintain the strength needed for the rear torsion bar anchors in the crossmember, and the tinwork to cover it all back up. I know it's been done, just be aware of the amount of work it will take to do it, and do it right.
Not doing efi. I'm redoing the entire floor so it seems like a good time for a cheap 5speed. Tying the subframes together and letting the trans mount live where ever it pleases.
 
I'm a machinist but not that kind of machinist. Cutting up a flex plate is appealing for that reason. I don't have the equipment to check flywheel balance.
 
I'm a machinist but not that kind of machinist. Cutting up a flex plate is appealing for that reason. I don't have the equipment to check flywheel balance.
The type of machining that needs to be done (you do NOT cut the flexplate) is more elaborate than rebalancing the flywheel to 5.9 spec, which there are diagrams for that are easy to follow. I would NOT do the sandwich method unless as a last resort, since it moves the flywheel deeper into the bellhousing and can mess with starter engagement and clutch release clearances.
Do it right or not at all, this is a 50+ lb. weight spinning at 5k rpm or more.
In a pinch, use this:
Bolt on Flywheel Weight for 130t Ext. Balance 360 Magnum Mopar Dodge A833 5.9 | eBay
I have several for different applications (5.9 Mag, 360LA, late 340 ext. balance) that I can slap on the flywheel I use on my run stand so I don't have to chase down a new flywheel with every different build I do... they work fine. Just watch your clearance between the weight and the dust shield.
 
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Easiest, bolt in method is to use a 143t 5.9 flywheel and clutch setup from a Dakota or ram. That’s what I used in my swap and everything bolted in without an issue.
 
Just so you know;
the stock 5.9 has more than enough grunt to run any A833 4-speed, with any rear gear, in any A-body; and there are 4 SBM ratios to chose from. ......
and they fit like a glove ......
and on the street, they scoff at 450 ftlbs.....
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As for the ratios;
3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00
2.66-1.91-1.39-1.00
2.47-1.77-1.34-1.00
3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od
As for cruising;
65mph, with 27"tires, by the math;
2.94s=2380; while 3.23s= 2615; and 3.55s =2873
As for taking off;
With a stock flywheel, and a starter gear of 11/1, taking off is a dump-it-and-go deal. By 9/1 or less, there is quite a bit of slipping the clutch going on.
Therefore, the sweet-spot is about 10/1. This would be;
2.47x 4.10, or 2.66x 3.73, or 3.09x 3.23
As for my favorite;
That would be the Commando with 3.55s, but only because she hits 60/65mph at the top of second. She's fine down to 2.94s, the lowest I have tried.
Of note;
1) any ratio can be fit into the A/F-body, alloy box and tail, making it almost as light as the AX. My alloy box survived 4 years of thrashing on the street as a DD, and was still fine when I replaced it with a Passon box..... Over 20 years ago now.
2) if you have bucket-seats, and are replacing the floor anyway, then I highly recommend moving the shifter back, and to the left, and raise it up; then use a short straight shifter. You'll love it. I used a B-body tail and mainshaft, with a home-made(custom-fabricated/lol) shifter mounting-plate.
3) I'll go out on a limb and say this, if your cylinder pressure is;
a paltry 140psi, you'll want a starter gear of ~11.8/1
by 160psi , you'd be fine at 10.4/1
by 180psi, I like 9.2/1
by 195, 8.5/1 is doable
These are the minimums recommended. This is based on my experience over 50 years of driving A-bodies with A833s

I made up this formula ;
1660/cylinder pressure= minimum recommended starter gear.
example;
1660/155psi= 10.7 starter, and
10.7/3.09 trans gear= 3.46 gears;
If you have a 2.66 box then 10.7/2.66=4.02s;
round up or down as may be required.
4) thus it can be seen, the more cylinder pressure your engine cranks, the less it needs for a starter gear.
And the less starter gear it needs, the less cruise gear it can getaway with.
5) to run the overdrive box; the more cylinder pressure your engine develops, the easier it will pull those wide ratios. But the good news is that; with that .73od, you can run almost any rear gear you want to.
And so, I like a final drive of 2.76 ,for 65= 2240(with 27s). This is because, any less rpm will not be able to develop optimum ignition timing.
Thus working the formula backwards, I need 2.76/.73= 3.73 rear gears.
The starter gear is thus 3.73 x3.09= 11.52
If I have a starter of 11.52, then My cylinder pressure can be as low as
1660/11.52= 144psi, about like a stock 318. But, the lo-pressure 318, for performance, will have a hard time with a Second Roadgear of 1.67 x 3.73=6.23 Whereas the 5.9 will find it nearly ideal..... because 65 in Second gear will get you 5040rpm (with 27" tires), which, with the stock cam peaking at around 4400, is just about right.
 
Easiest, bolt in method is to use a 143t 5.9 flywheel and clutch setup from a Dakota or ram. That’s what I used in my swap and everything bolted in without an issue.

Is this correct?? I didn’t think a 143 tooth flywheel only fit a big block and that was with a special bell housing or scatter shield.

IIRC the bolt pattern at the back of the block is too tight to get a bigger can on it to fit that flywheel.
 
The type of machining that needs to be done (you do NOT cut the flexplate) is more elaborate than rebalancing the flywheel to 5.9 spec, which there are diagrams for that are easy to follow. I would NOT do the sandwich method unless as a last resort, since it moves the flywheel deeper into the bellhousing and can mess with starter engagement and clutch release clearances.
Do it right or not at all, this is a 50+ lb. weight spinning at 5k rpm or more.
In a pinch, use this:
Bolt on Flywheel Weight for 130t Ext. Balance 360 Magnum Mopar Dodge A833 5.9 | eBay
I have several for different applications (5.9 Mag, 360LA, late 340 ext. balance) that I can slap on the flywheel I use on my run stand so I don't have to chase down a new flywheel with every different build I do... they work fine. Just watch your clearance between the weight and the dust shield.
Pretty much just turning down the flywheel so the flexplate fits over it. The weights look like a more reasonable idea. I often get sucked into to doing everything off of junked car parts
 
Is this correct?? I didn’t think a 143 tooth flywheel only fit a big block and that was with a special bell housing or scatter shield.

IIRC the bolt pattern at the back of the block is too tight to get a bigger can on it to fit that flywheel.
Oh, they fit just fine.
The 143t (11") flywheel was used on most all manual small block trucks- from A motors to LAs to Magnums. Only a few V6 Dakotas with the NV2500 used variations on the 10/10.5 flywheel.
 
Easiest, bolt in method is to use a 143t 5.9 flywheel and clutch setup from a Dakota or ram. That’s what I used in my swap and everything bolted in without an issue. I

I'll give that a try before anything else
 
If you're bound and intent to put a five speed in it, start looking for an NV3500. The smaller NV is not bulletproof behind a 5.9 by any means, but the AX15 was not offered behind any V8. The best NV would be a HD dakota unit rated at 340 lb/ft of tourque, but the 4:1 first gear is a bit much for a street car...
 
What year did that start?
Heck, I've pulled trannies with 11" clutches out of early '60s trucks with Polys, so sometime before then. My '66 Sweptline 318 Poly has an 11 inch clutch, as did my '78 D200/360. The '89 NV4500 I've got uses an 11" (going behind a Gen3 using an eight-bolt 11" 4.7 flywheel).
 
If you're bound and intent to put a five speed in it, start looking for an NV3500. The smaller NV is not bulletproof behind a 5.9 by any means, but the AX15 was not offered behind any V8. The best NV would be a HD dakota unit rated at 340 lb/ft of tourque, but the 4:1 first gear is a bit much for a street car...
I'm taking my chances. I don't think it'll be an issue on a street car
 
Heck, I've pulled trannies with 11" clutches out of early '60s trucks with Polys, so sometime before then. My '66 Sweptline 318 Poly has an 11 inch clutch, as did my '78 D200. The '89 NV4500 I've got uses an 11" (going behind a Gen3 using an eight-bolt 11" 4.7 flywheel).


Ok. I wasn’t thinking truck stuff .
 
but the 4:1 first gear is a bit much for a street car...
Even the Mopar 3.09 is a bit much for anything over 3.55s, unless you have an engine with a really sucked out bottom end. I mean I really enjoy my 11/1 starter gear because with 185psi CCP, it's a dump-it-and-go deal; but really, it's way more starter than I need.
On the other hand, a 4/1 low gear is about perfect for 2.73s ............... and then, the .79 overdrive is good for 85mph ~2300

My questions are these;
will the BH for the big flywheel, still fit in the OPs tunnel?
What fork does it use? and
if longer than the one for the smaller BH, will it interfere with headers?
Does it use all the same Z-bar and anchors, etc?
 
Even the Mopar 3.09 is a bit much for anything over 3.55s, unless you have an engine with a really sucked out bottom end. I mean I really enjoy my 11/1 starter gear because with 185psi CCP, it's a dump-it-and-go deal; but really, it's way more starter than I need.
On the other hand, a 4/1 low gear is about perfect for 2.73s ............... and then, the .79 overdrive is good for 85mph ~2300

My questions are these;
will the BH for the big flywheel, still fit in the OPs tunnel?
What fork does it use? and
if longer than the one for the smaller BH, will it interfere with headers?
Does it use all the same Z-bar and anchors, etc?


Starting line ratio isn’t a guess. I’m at 15:1 in first gear and that’s a little shy.

At 11:1 my car wouldn’t move. That’s too tall.
 
@Newbomb Turk
Is that a race car then?
or a two-cylinder?
or a 6000 pound barge?

I ran that 15/1 for a few weeks and couldn't stand it.
A decent hi-pressure 360 like mine hardly cares anywhere between 9 to 11. I prefer a 10/1 cuz I don't have to shift 2 car-lengths out, in town.
I actually ran just about every rear end from 2.76 to 4.88, except for 3.73s and 4.56s; and with each of the A833s, looking for the perfect Second gear, cuz my 367 doesn't much care about the starter gear.

If you reread post #7, it clearly says, on "the street"
 
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My questions are these;
will the BH for the big flywheel, still fit in the OPs tunnel?
What fork does it use? and
if longer than the one for the smaller BH, will it interfere with headers?
Does it use all the same Z-bar and anchors, etc?
Bellhousing will fit, may have to do a little work flattening the pinch weld; depends what he's putting it in. He never did say.
Uses a completely internal fork actuated by a hydraulic slave cylinder that bolts to the rear of the bellhousing- should not interfere with headers, but can't speak for each and every brand.
No z bar or anchors or linkage of any kind since it's hydraulic. Just have to figure out the mounting of the master and reservoir- the master is the point where there could be header interference.
 
Even the Mopar 3.09 is a bit much for anything over 3.55s, unless you have an engine with a really sucked out bottom end. I mean I really enjoy my 11/1 starter gear because with 185psi CCP, it's a dump-it-and-go deal; but really, it's way more starter than I need.
On the other hand, a 4/1 low gear is about perfect for 2.73s ............... and then, the .79 overdrive is good for 85mph ~2300

My questions are these;
will the BH for the big flywheel, still fit in the OPs tunnel?
What fork does it use? and
if longer than the one for the smaller BH, will it interfere with headers?
Does it use all the same Z-bar and anchors, etc?
The tunnel is getting cut out. I doubt this trans would fit in an A body as is. Clearance was never the issue. Worrying about a flywheel that will play nice is the issue now.
 
@Newbomb Turk
Is that a race car then?
or a two-cylinder?
or a 6000 pound barge?

I ran that 15/1 for a few weeks and couldn't stand it.
A decent hi-pressure 360 like mine hardly cares anywhere between 9 to 11. I prefer a 10/1 cuz I don't have to shift 2 car-lengths out, in town.
I actually ran just about every rear end from 2.76 to 4.88, except for 3.73s and 4.56s; and with each of the A833s, looking for the perfect Second gear, cuz my 367 doesn't much care about the starter gear.

If you reread post #7, it clearly says, on "the street"

Street/strip car.

I can tell you the car cares if it’s 9-11:1.

I can tell you I will have more cylinder pressure than you and most likely 100 HP on you.

That’s why I went from 4.56’s to 4.88’s and from a 26 to a 28 inch tall tire.

It needed the extra low gear.

Just because you don’t like something doesn’t mean the car is happy about it.
 
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