Thank you! I knew I seen/read this before.
5.9L Magnum build with questions
- Thread starter black954
- Start date
-
black954
Well-Known Member
Well, making some progress. My block was ready at the machine shop when the pistons arrived. So I brought in the crank for polishing and the rods to get the new pistons pressed on. Unfortunately there was a miscommunication and I was sent +.040” pistons not the STD I need. So I’ve just been doing what I can until the new pistons and heads arrive. I had my son clean all the threaded holes with a tap and we painted the block. My Kevko oil pan came in as well as my custom Comp roller. Question, I am ok to run stock Magnum lifters with this cam correct? What about the distributor drive gear, I assume the original Magnum gear will be compatible with the Comp hyd. Roller?
black954
Well-Known Member
Good news and bad news. My Icon pistons cam in. I dropped them off at the machine shop this morning and unfortunately just got a call from them. He weighed the original Magnum 5.9 STD bore pistons, rings, and pins and then weighed the Icon piston assemblies with the lightened pins and the lighter ring set was still 50 grams heavier than the originals. So now I’m looking at balancing the rotating assembly. Just sucks because I haven’t ordered my flywheel yet. Which means I’m delayed yet again at assembling this engine. I’m going to order the flywheel from American Powertrain I guess. Can anyone chime in on if this is correct. 130T, 10.5” clutch or do I need the 143T flywheel? I’ll be running the original bellhousing from the 340 that came with the car as well as the original 833 4-sped.
I need to get the flywheel ordered so I can get it and bring it with the balancer to the machine shop so he can balance the rotating assembly.
I need to get the flywheel ordered so I can get it and bring it with the balancer to the machine shop so he can balance the rotating assembly.
Last edited:
turboking15
Well-Known Member
I have always been sceptical of those being a true drop in deal. Especially for what they cost with the "required" pins.
black954
Well-Known Member
I’ve haven’t heard anything bad about IMM so I just went with them assuming they were ready to run out of the box.
On a big positive note, I was able to track down a really nice M1 intake that I ordered yesterday. I’ll report back when it arrives.
Dustert73
Stripping bolts since ‘10
Hey man nice build! I use the American Powertrain 130t flywheel and a 10.5 clutch with my mag 360 a833 setup. Works well, has held up to lots of abuse and normal around town driving.
SCIENCE FRICTION Billet Steel Flywheel, SFI Quality, 130t/10.5", 360 Magnum, 6-bolt - American Powertrain
SCIENCE FRICTION Billet Steel Flywheel, SFI Quality, 130t/10.5", 360 Magnum, 6-bolt - American Powertrain
black954
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I’m dying to get this engine assembled so I can move on lol. That’s the exact flywheel I ordered on Tuesday and is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Then I can drop it off with the harmonic balancer in the afternoon and just maybe they’ll get the rotating assembly balanced early next week. I’m crossing my fingers!
What pilot bearing do I need to go into my Magnum 5.9L stock crank with my A833?
Dustert73
Stripping bolts since ‘10
NATIONAL FC69907
I’ve heard of the input shaft length needing cut down a little bit too? I didn’t have to on mine after checking the clearance though.
black954
Well-Known Member
Awesome, thank you! Yeah, I’m hoping I don’t have to cut mine either. It’s the original transmission to the car and I’m trying not to do anything irreversible in the future if by chance it ever gets restored. I’m also thinking about the American Powertrain hydraulic throw out bearing kit. Any thoughts?
Dustert73
Stripping bolts since ‘10
Honestly I’d stick with your stock linkage, if it’s all there since you’re using the stock Bellhousing. I have been reading into it recently, and I’ve seen varying reports of needing to modify the LH inner fender to clear the master cylinder. Despite this I plan on installing one of those kits or similar on my car when I go to a scatter proof Bellhousing.
black954
Well-Known Member
I was just thinking about gaining header clearance. I plan on fabricating my own stainless 1 7/8” long tube headers and not having linkage would really just open up a lot of room. I’m going to install the engine with the bellhousing and see what the situation is room wise. Then I’ll make my decision.
Dustert73
Stripping bolts since ‘10
whoops, forgot about the header situation lol Yeah I’m running cheap headers on my car right now so the linkage clears. But I plan on swapping to the set of dougs I have with the new Bellhousing.
I’ll be watching this build man! Definitely interested to see the results. Sounds like we are relatively heading in the same direction for builds.
Something doesn't sound right here. 50 grams is waay off. I would double check with IMMI and see what he thinks. Did you use the same rings and pins in
the magazine build? IIRC that build was with with .030 pistons so those would have been heavier yet?
black954
Well-Known Member
I would agree, but this is what it is. I went and checked to see if pistons in Dakota 5.9L Magnums had a different PN from the Ram 5.9L Magnum on the Mopar website and they are the same pistons in both engines. The only thing I can find different is the pistons I have are IC 741R with coated skirts, but the pistons from the article are IC 741 without coatings. I’m not really sure what the difference is. I ordered everything from IMM and they spec’d everything to work together supposedly. I’m brining the flywheel and balancer to the machine shop Monday so I will talk to the machinist to see what he thinks.
black954
Well-Known Member
The R might signify Right side possibly. I will say the pistons in the article don’t look exactly the same as the ones I have. I guess it might be possible that Icon changed the pistons in the 3 years since the article was published?
black954
Well-Known Member
So I spoke with Brian at IMM about the piston weights. He was familiar with what I was talking about and assured me that the stock pistons are actually 40+ grams off balance and the new heavier pistons are actually much closer to balancing out on the stock crank. I’m might not be saying that correctly, but he assured me the Icon forged piston set up is more accurately in balance with the factory crank then the original cast piston assemblies and that no balancing is required. I believe what he is saying, but I still chose to have the rotating assembly balanced. I think its the best option with the engine completely torn down and so many new mixed components added. Should help it rev more freely and be easier on the bearings as well.
The flywheel came in this morning so I took it in with the balancer to the machine shop. I should get everything back in a day or two so I can begin assembly. Keep an eye out for updates soon
Thanks black. I would be curious to see what the balance results are from the machine shop.
turboking15
Well-Known Member
So that would stand to reason that you could put a set of kb107s into a 5.9 mag with no need to rebalance.
5.9 mag - 469g piston 135g pin 604g total
kb107 - 524g piston 132g pin 656 total
52g difference
black954
Well-Known Member
That’s correct. Apparently the factory rotating assembly was way off balance and not spot on like you would assume it would be. Like I said though, I still went ahead and had my rotating assembly balanced. I just didn’t want to take a chance on what is turning out to be an all out engine build instead of the quick refresh I was originally thinking.
black954
Well-Known Member
I picked up my parts from the machine shop. He said he had to remove weight from the very front and rear lobe of the crank and a little from the new billet flywheel. He said it wasn’t off very much. He also had to grind 3 of the rods to get them all matched.
Anyways, I was able to get the rings all file fit and check the bearing clearance. All the clearances were very close to each other and well within spec. I was really happy to see that. Also, this was my first time using a machined taper ring compressor and I don’t think I’ll ever use one of the adjustable ring compressors ever again. Every piston slid easily into the bores on the first try.
I finished the short block as far as I can go. Just waiting on cylinder heads now so I can measure and order push rods.
View attachment 1715519900
Anyways, I was able to get the rings all file fit and check the bearing clearance. All the clearances were very close to each other and well within spec. I was really happy to see that. Also, this was my first time using a machined taper ring compressor and I don’t think I’ll ever use one of the adjustable ring compressors ever again. Every piston slid easily into the bores on the first try.
I finished the short block as far as I can go. Just waiting on cylinder heads now so I can measure and order push rods.
View attachment 1715519900
turboking15
Well-Known Member
Good to heat things are starting to move along for you. If thats the intake you are going to run you should look into having the carb flange turned into a true 4150 flange. Supposed to be a decent increase in power. Theres a few threads around here documenting this.
black954
Well-Known Member
I’m glad you brought that up, I was just talking to a machinist buddy last night about that. I will be opening up the flange area and blending a radius into the opening below the flange. I’m going to gasket match the ports once the gaskets and heads arrive. I forgot to mention I filed the ring gap bigger so I can run some nitrous or boost in the future.
I put KB 107's in my 5.9 mag, and mallory was needed and added to the crank.
turboking15
Well-Known Member
black954
Well-Known Member
That just shows how out of balance these engines were from the factory. Funny how your crank need weight added while mine needed weight removed. I'm just glad I spent the time and money to have it balanced, mostly for my own piece of mnd.
-
